For all in the know where is the proper cut to fell a tree --> img

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Cutting at night, sounds interesting, lol. What was your light source? It's tough to beat daylight

i was cutting firewood for a maple syrup pan at night using a light. I lost my light source when i cut through the extension cord. damn. probabaly the wrong saw and I could have been nailed.

Headlamps!
 
I didn't pick any of the Humboldt's because the back cuts were wrong for proper technique. Theoretically the back cut should be higher than the undercut. In practicality out here they are cut like 2c with hinge wood left intact not cut through like the pic. In picking 3b it was done with correct back cut height and left hinge wood. Open face is something I have only seen in pics not used much out in the PNW.
 
Felled about 12 trees today and did the dutchman cut

I was able to get 1 tree to perform as I think it should of,

about 1/3 the way down the tree gave a mighty snap and at the same time a nerve shattering twist jerked to the right and landed on its back "WOW":jawdrop: I can see where that could be used but man, make sure its right, I'm sure if the hinge didn't snap there would have been a barber chair with a close shave.
 
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I was able to get 1 tree to perform as I think it should of,

about 1/3 the way down the tree gave a mite snap and at the same time a nerve shattering twist jerked to the right and landed on its back "WOW":jawdrop: I can see where that could be used but man, make sure its right, I'm sure if the hinge didn't snap there would have been a barber chair with a close shave.

Awesome you'll have to get pics of the next one you do, in steps, so I can see what the cut is supposed to actually look like.
 
Professional timber falling, Douglas Dent

Get it.
Read it.
If you didn't understand something, read it again. A wealth of information.

Conventional cut is fine for most. Once in awhile I practice the dutchman.

Never, never, never make the back cut the same hight as the notch. You then have no control at all :jawdrop:

-Pat
 
Not true at all. You lose control when you cut the hinge wood completely away

Sawing off a corner allows the tree to "wander". Sawing off the down hill corner allows a tree to roll off the stump, useful in many ways, but should be exercised with caution. Proffesional fallers are generally the only ones needing this techinique for various reasons. Cutting a high "step" above your notch, sets the tree on the stump for maximum time, and is a safe way to cut, but harder to get the tree moving.
 
I didn't pick any of the Humboldt's because the back cuts were wrong for proper technique. Theoretically the back cut should be higher than the undercut. In practicality out here they are cut like 2c with hinge wood left intact not cut through like the pic. In picking 3b it was done with correct back cut height and left hinge wood. Open face is something I have only seen in pics not used much out in the PNW.

Yeah you had to use your imagination in those pics but most of us know
to leave hinge wood :cheers:
 
Don't forget the hinge issue.

Never, ever cut through your hinge. At least 10 per cent needs to be left as hinge because this controls your fell. As for the pictures... well you'll get a thousand and one opinions, but many courses that you can take will teach you 3c... notwithstanding the "hinge" issue.
 
As for the pictures... well you'll get a thousand and one opinions, but many courses that you can take will teach you 3c... notwithstanding the "hinge" issue.

Oh really, can you please list all those places so I can inform them of their error and violation of safe felling codes of practice. :popcorn:
 
Hmmm felling notches some would think

I just do :givebeer:
I use 1-b, and 3-b I think 1-b is the best but time consuming &
3-b is simple and fast, the top cut goes quick bottom is straight and simple.

Most of my cutting is done in open terrain,

But when I get into town or the city, I Always use the humbolt cut,, ALWAYS,, & charge 100.00$ per nail hit...

opennotchanim.gif
Open-faced Notch
connotchanim.gif
Conventional Notch
humnotchanim.gif
Humbolt Notch

Read more
 
I just do :givebeer:
I use 1-b, and 3-b I think 1-b is the best but time consuming &
3-b is simple and fast, the top cut goes quick bottom is straight and simple.

Most of my cutting is done in open terrain,

But when I get into town or the city, I Always use the humbolt cut,, ALWAYS,, & charge 100.00$ per nail hit...

opennotchanim.gif
Open-faced Notch
connotchanim.gif
Conventional Notch
humnotchanim.gif
Humbolt Notch

Read more

good link!!!!!

thanks!
 
Sawing off a corner allows the tree to "wander". Sawing off the down hill corner allows a tree to roll off the stump, useful in many ways, but should be exercised with caution. Proffesional fallers are generally the only ones needing this techinique for various reasons. Cutting a high "step" above your notch, sets the tree on the stump for maximum time, and is a safe way to cut, but harder to get the tree moving.

Notice I used the word "completely". As a logger and landclearer, I am well versed in the various manipulations of hinge wood to achieve desired affects.
 
Mythbusters is the best science program we have

We do have a few Ponderosa Pine trees (10"-16" dbh) that have been dropped by bullet as they were places to put targets on.
They were near gravel pits and that was their mistake.

-------------------

I did not notice if the height of the back-cut lead was 2" above the face cut lead.
 

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