For anyone looking for Stihl 63PMX lo pro ripping chain in the US

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This place up the road from me in Canyon Lake is selling off a bunch of 20" and 28" loops they probably got from the local Logosol dealer who I think is out of Canyon Lake. Works out to about 40 cents a link which is what it costs for an entire 100' roll from Baileys, so if you only need a few chains it's a good deal. Can always remake the loops into the sizes you need if you're not running a 20 or 28" bar. https://www.ebay.com/itm/126686914550
 
This place up the road from me in Canyon Lake is selling off a bunch of 20" and 28" loops they probably got from the local Logosol dealer who I think is out of Canyon Lake. Works out to about 40 cents a link which is what it costs for an entire 100' roll from Baileys, so if you only need a few chains it's a good deal. Can always remake the loops into the sizes you need if you're not running a 20 or 28" bar. https://www.ebay.com/itm/126686914550

Thanks for the heads up.

As bad luck would have it my picco bars are 16" and 25". I don't have a spinner or tie straps either......

I've got an older M5 Logosol mill, and the 25" will square up about any log up to the mill capacity.
 
As bad luck would have it my picco bars are 16" and 25". I don't have a spinner or tie straps either......
Dang, I was mostly thinking of you when posting that. I have a 20" bar, but plenty of chain (not PMX) for it for now, and otherwise 36 and 48" bars. I have a spinner and tie straps, so a 20 and 28 would be perfect to make 48" chains from where I most need the quality and strength of the PMX. Have yet to even make up a chain for that 48" bar since I got it, bit of an experiment in seeing where lo pro begins to fail. Will take a soft touch and some custom skip chain configuration to make it work. Stuck in a giant renovation of a future house and property taking up most of my energy, and finding no trees to mill anywhere for awhile. Certainly not any bigger than 30", which the 36" bar can handle. Need to go north and find some big trees.
 
Dang, I was mostly thinking of you when posting that. I have a 20" bar, but plenty of chain (not PMX) for it for now, and otherwise 36 and 48" bars. I have a spinner and tie straps, so a 20 and 28 would be perfect to make 48" chains from where I most need the quality and strength of the PMX. Have yet to even make up a chain for that 48" bar since I got it, bit of an experiment in seeing where lo pro begins to fail. Will take a soft touch and some custom skip chain configuration to make it work. Stuck in a giant renovation of a future house and property taking up most of my energy, and finding no trees to mill anywhere for awhile. Certainly not any bigger than 30", which the 36" bar can handle. Need to go north and find some big trees.

Are you running those on the 880? Curious where you found bars and drive sprockets?

Before they went out of business, Left Coast supplies had great deals on 3003 mount GB picco bars. The 25" was $23 and chains were $21. Should have bought more.
 
Are you running those on the 880? Curious where you found bars and drive sprockets?

Before they went out of business, Left Coast supplies had great deals on 3003 mount GB picco bars. The 25" was $23 and chains were $21. Should have bought more.
I'm running the 36" on the 056 Super. Was initially going to run the 48" bar on the 880 as it comes in an 880 mount, but I fear it's just too much torque and way more power than I need to run it and might snap chains too easily. But I do have to make up my mind because the chain loops have to be made to fit one saw or the other, I think it will likely be different link numbers for the 056 Super and the 880. Then I also have to settle on a lo pro drive rim, as the 10 tooth one I bought from Danzco/6K to speed up and de-torque the 880 was too ambitious in size and will likely cause me to throw chains. Have to decide on whether I want to throw another $50 at an 8 or 9 tooth, or use one of the 7 tooth LP ones I already have. Have been getting the bars from the UK - https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product-category/gb-lo-pro-milling-bars/

Before I throw any more money down this "lo pro on big logs" rabbit hole that I barely seem to have a use for, I might as well make up a loop of the Archer LP ripping chain I have, put the 48" bar on my 056 Super with its 7 tooth LP rim (the 48" bar has dual oil and tensioner hole setups for 3002 and 3003 Stihls) and just find some short huge round of live oak around here to test it on. I don't mind doing the alternate pairs "double skip" custom grind on cheap chain in an experiment, but wouldn't want to waste good PMX doing it if I don't really like the result. I can't imagine full comp LP chain working well at all on that bar, I saw one video from the UK on Youtube of a guy milling a 40" oak with the 48" bar with full comp and it looked really slow (though granted, any 40" oak is gonna be pretty slow though with anything). Can't find that but here's someone with an 881 running the 48" GB lo pro bar on 24" ash with 63PMX, which isn't terribly fast for 24" wood but isn't overly slow either and they're also being sure not to push it too much.

Or since I have a 10 tooth rim already and those guys had no trouble running the setup with an 881 (with 7 tooth LP rim I assume), I could just make up a chain to fit the 880 and see if the 10 tooth throws it or not flowing off the sprocket on to the bar. Trick will be to make up a number of links that lets me butt the bar up as close to the drive rim as possible to minimize the distance between leaving the drive rim and entering the bar rail.
 
Why don't you get yourself a .404 8 tooth drive rim & turn it down. They're cheap & it would be a good compromise to see how it works
One of the few things I don’t have is any lathing equipment or skills or know anyone that will do it cheaply for me. Otherwise would have done a few from 8 tooth .404 rims already. It’s also not enough of a step up from the 7 tooth for either my low rpm high torque 056 Super or 880 for me to want to bother with. For any modern high revving saw I would. Nearly certain a 9 tooth would work w the 48” GB bar - wider tail than their smaller bars - and can buy a 9 tooth from 6K Products (they sell 7,8,9,10,11, and 12 in 3/8LP). Was considering this all part of an investment in a US-based online sales lo pro milling operation, but have too many other things on my plate right now to pursue it. Also it's proved difficult to sell Americans on trying milling with lo pro with higher cost of bars, chains, and sprockets due to no one mass manufacturing them on the scale they do 3/8 and .404.
 
I think the future actually is in electric saws that run about 6000-7000 rpm that run a bar something like this with a giant 12 tooth 3/8LP sprocket to make chain speeds comparable to a 10-12k rpm gas powered saw. But that's a bit of time in the future before we see much like that here in the US. Europe is already getting there with Logosol's offerings, this goes with their 8kW electric speed saw mill, but it's a 230/400V plug in unit. The technology is there for portable, Oregon is making a 6200rpm battery powered polesaw and EGO is making 6800rpm battery powered pole saws and chainsaws up to a 55cc equivalent. Just a matter of someone putting it all together in the right package. Big lithium batteries are the only way to make something portable, but there still seem to be some overheating issues with the largest of single lithium batteries EGO offers in running their 55cc equivalent saw. Just like the enormous weight of batteries in EV cars, you'd have to go to an impractically heavy amount in a 70-90cc equivalent chainsaw to supply the power you need. EGO makes a 24hp battery powered lawn tractor, but it uses something like 6 batteries in it 6AH each.

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I'm using my 066 with picco/lo pro 25" bar 7 pin drive on anything up to 30" logs. Mill cant take bigger than that. Although people have used the Logosols mills inverted I've never tried that

The M5 mill mount does not restrict the length of the bar much, So I take a slab off the top, rotate 180 degrees take another slab, rotate 90 degrees take a slab. Since I'm not cutting through the center of the log, the 25" bar gets the outer slabs off.

At that point I'm square on 3 sides and the 25" will cut through the cant. Also the cant will sit flat on the mill for the rest of the cuts. I rotate again and butt flat sides to the mills verticle stay near the rail, and the log supports on the bottom. At this point the cant is very stable on the mill and I can take fletches off the cant.

I'll flat saw and edge, if needed, the fletches later. Depending on the log, sometimes I'll work around the cant, and box the heart for a beam.

On smaller logs I do the same with the 16" bar, and it cuts faster.
 
I'm using my 066 with picco/lo pro 25" bar 7 pin drive on anything up to 30" logs. Mill cant take bigger than that. Although people have used the Logosols mills inverted I've never tried that
That seems like a great process to not need more bar than is efficient to use. Whether for personal use or for selling, I don't think enough people milling - certainly not the newbies - realize dimensional lumber or trimmed fletches are in far greater demand than live edge slabs these days. There will always be a niche market for live edge, but a tiny fraction of the overall lumber market. And you can only do so much with live edge pieces for your own purposes. People routinely get far too much bar and saw to maintain wildly uneven live edge rather than trimming logs. Admittedly, a bandsaw makes a lot more sense to a lot of people for this kind of purpose than a Logosol with 3/8LP, but I still see the attraction of the Logosol's portability and lower cost when you already own all the chainsaw milling gear for it.
 
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