More adventures in lo pro milling

[Up A Creek]

I was wondering how much it had to do with it sitting outside. In that video they had mentioned how resistant it was to splitting and rot so I wasn't sure. Don't see it up here so I know next to nothing about it. Other than it being incredibly hard.

Winching is significantly better than even cutting on a slope. I remember thinking it was a gimmick at first too, then once I tried it I was sold.

I need to figure how to get oil into the groove of the bar. Right now my Oiler just drips it onto the top.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

I need to figure how to get oil into the groove of the bar. Right now my Oiler just drips it onto the top.

You can buy an oiler bolt from Granberg or Chainsawbars. Drill an 8mm hole near the end of the bar before the nose sprocket. On my lo pro bars the hole is centered about 12.2 mm from the edge, which opens up a small hole in the bottom of the rail. Align the opening of the oiler bolt with the hole in the bottom of the rail, connect a hose to the oiler bolt from your reservoir, and you're good.

 

[Up A Creek]

Thanks. I took a look at those and they take up more space than I want to give up on the bar.
My 52-in bar has just under 50 inches of cutting length if it's buried right up to the saw. With my mill attached and spread as far as it goes I only have 44 in I can cut with. That's not counting the extra distance of the rollers. I'm going to have to take them off for the next cut I do I think. I don't want to lose even more bar.

I saw a post where Bob L said he didn't think you needed an oil hole in the bar. He felt that just dripping on the Chain was enough.
Thinking about it, you want oil on the links and inside the bar. At least in theory. I don't know how much it matters in real world situations.

I would assume more oil is lost from the outside of the chain as it goes around the nose versus from inside the groove.

I'll have to think on this more. I don't have time to mod the bars right now anyways, so I guess dripping on the chain will have to do for now.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

Thanks. I took a look at those and they take up more space than I want to give up on the bar.
My 52-in bar has just under 50 inches of cutting length if it's buried right up to the saw. With my mill attached and spread as far as it goes I only have 44 in I can cut with. That's not counting the extra distance of the rollers. I'm going to have to take them off for the next cut I do I think. I don't want to lose even more bar.

Bar lengths are a random thing by manufacturer. Stihl's bar lengths don't match up to anything in particular, usually measures to somewhere between the bar mounting bolts to tip. One of my Husqvarna 20" bars is actually about 20" from edge of powerhead to tip though. True, if you do an oiler bolt you can't clamp across the rivets on the nose sprocket. Because I have bolt on instead of clamping I can't go as far out, leaving room for an oiler bolt. Rollers only seem useful on really uneven logs, otherwise with a winch I don't know they're much use and do take away some bar length. I got a 60" mill for my 72" bar just so I could have plenty of space to lose. It's hard to take full advantage of my 36" mill with a 42" bar. Might have to get a 48" lo pro bar for it someday.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

Trimmed and planed some blocks of the remainder of the live oak. A roughly 39" x 5.4" x 7.4" piece weighed out on the scale at 63.8 lbs. I computed it to be at most .905 cubic feet. That gives me a density of 70.5 lbs per cubic feet, 10 lbs per cubic foot higher than dried live oak is supposed to be and this seems dry as can be. This is a wood unlike anything else I've ever come across. The weight is mind boggling.

 

[Lightning Performance]

If you guys want to shop local disc brake caliper bolts work fine but need more copper washers as shims. Once they seal up your good.

Online you can also buy a brake bleader with a banjo setup. They attach to motorcycle master cylinders on the bars. The bleeder setting can be used as a feed rate and the cap pops off to plug on your feed hose. Really simple system. I'm still dripping oil right where the chain enters the bar off the sprocket nose. My saw can feed oil to a 60" but it's better to add more on the big stuff.

 

[Up A Creek]

The brake banjo bolts are big though. Much bigger than 8mm (at least for almost all cars). And they shave off the threads on the tip with the premade bolt, so it's closer to 5 or 6 mm. You'll have a pretty hard time attaching the hose on the banjo bolt I would think?

Not sure on the motorcycle bleeder, never seen that.

I'm running a 3120, so I have more than enough oil on the top of the bar, but so much slings off at the tip with the long bars. I'm running the granberg auxiliary oiler right now too. I was just wondering if getting oil into the groove is better, or even getting it into the groove and onto the chain together. Something I'll have to think about down the road. Not going to deal with it right now.

 

[Lightning Performance]

The brake banjo bolts are big though. Much bigger than 8mm (at least for almost all cars). And they shave off the threads on the tip with the premade bolt, so it's closer to 5 or 6 mm. You'll have a pretty hard time attaching the hose on the banjo bolt I would think?

Not sure on the motorcycle bleeder, never seen that.

I'm running a 3120, so I have more than enough oil on the top of the bar, but so much slings off at the tip with the long bars. I'm running the granberg auxiliary oiler right now too. I was just wondering if getting oil into the groove is better, or even getting it into the groove and onto the chain together. Something I'll have to think about down the road. Not going to deal with it right now.

I'm only using an axillary oil drip feed right at the chain/bar meeting coming back on the bar. Found no benefit to drilling any of mine. I might do the banjo bolt bleeder from a bike on my 42" bar on the 660 and see how that goes. Doubtful it needs more oil but wth.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

I'm running a 3120, so I have more than enough oil on the top of the bar, but so much slings off at the tip with the long bars. I'm running the granberg auxiliary oiler right now too. I was just wondering if getting oil into the groove is better, or even getting it into the groove and onto the chain together. Something I'll have to think about down the road. Not going to deal with it right now.

I gather from what BobL said about this 12 years ago, the key to drip-on is placement. Centrifugal force will fling most off if dripped on the top but it won't if you drip on the bottom side of the bar right where the nose curve ends, like Lightning has it. Oiler bolts guarantee good chain oiling but do cost you some cutting length, so if you value every bit you can get out of a bar, dripping is probably the way to stick with. I'm not sure I'll bother drilling my undrilled .404 bars tbh, I just went with the oiler bolt on lo pro because the lo pro bars I got came drilled and they gave me a free oiler bolt. With heavy oiling saws like a 3120 or an 880, I don't think auxiliary oilers become especially important til you're getting into consistently 36"+ wide slabs.