friction hitch

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What type of friction hitch do you use?

  • Blake's

    Votes: 21 31.8%
  • tautline or variation of tautline

    Votes: 9 13.6%
  • Distel/Swabbish

    Votes: 11 16.7%
  • Valdotian Tresse or variation thereof

    Votes: 21 31.8%
  • some other closed loop, advanced hitch

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • mechanical hitch such as a LockJack or other ascender

    Votes: 4 6.1%

  • Total voters
    66
> I'm a BA at MA

Better than being an MA at BS, huh?

The MA in many practical cases such as this needs to be significantly reduced by friction. Would a 150# person ascending hoist a 50/75/100# counterweight (used instead of tying off the pulley end)? --that would show the true load at the crotch.

(I know from some fiddling with mythical things like the "Poldo Tackle" and barbell weights that the actual MA is hardly what some knot book authors assert.)

(^_^)
 
Knude, The calculations are based on 0 friction at the turns.-Which doesn't happen. However, good pulleys make friction losses small. A pulleyless Poldo is a long way from a 3/1 MA but still a useful trick.
 
54 votes cast, not to shabby, I still think there are some more climbers out there that could push the poll into the 60's, maybe into the 70's.

Looks like an almost dead even split between the Blake's, TL guys, compared to the VT, Distel/ Swabbish users.
 
Rocky you talk about yuppie climbers like you aren't one!! You sold me on the pantin, and I think the lockjack is the ultimate sign of a yuppie climber. haha!!

I use a distal with a micro pulley in the middle, or used to until I started climbing on Yellow Jacket. I love the rope but my distal just goes too limp to work good, I normally use a 3 over 1 wrap, but have even tried 3 over 2 and it still does not grab like I'd like it to. Good news is that I have pulled out an ascender that I rarely use that works a lot like a LJ it is a Titanium USHUBA(?) ascender that works great on this thinner rope. It never worked as well with the arbor plex, blue streak, pro stripe.
I of course always have my trusty pantin to help me out, and a handled ascender to pull on if I have a little longer climb ahead of me.

Boots: Magnum steel toes with the side zipper. These were $100 boots -most expensive boots I've ever owned (I live in FL). I only tie them once a week to get them nice and snug and then use the side zipper to get quickly in and out of. They feel great and are very light weight. they look pretty rough with only 2-3 months of hard use, but they feel great. They've got another couple of months and I'm going to step up to somthing with a steel shank, and spend a few more bucks. I now don't mind putting money on my feet it is worth it.

Greg
 
Originally posted by Ax-man
54 votes cast, not to shabby, I still think there are some more climbers out there that could push the poll into the 60's, maybe into the 70's.
On a site that claims to have over 4000 members:confused: I am new to site but not new to this type of work and do not mean to sound like a wise a** but out of 4000 members only about 70 guys climb? You guys must be really busy:rolleyes:
 
Never scrolled down that far. I stopped at dealers only. I wonder why they do not elimate after certain period of no activity? I guess I will get the hang of this as I go along.
 
I am happy on the swabbish. I have only seen the pics and links of the VT variations. That is new to me. That is why I'm not going anywhere, this place is a vast library of first hand experience! I thirst for more knowledge. The boots thing, I bought another pair of husky's, climbers boots. If I were gaffs(unusual) I take an extra wrap on the shank of the gaff to keep them in place. They are amazing to footlock in and very durable. They have no heal at all. FLAT! I accidentally ruined my last pair by spreading calcium chloride in the winter and not clening it off my boots right away. It shrunk them three sizes or better! sucked the life out of the leather. They were a little steep but I just love them. I wore 45$ timberlands from sears till I had enough cash. I still have them also. I think the key is taking care of them. IE mink oil or something.
 
There are more tauntline people out there than you might think.

And this 'ole tauntline boy will go up against anybody, anywhere, anytime.

Err, as long as THEY come HERE!

:D
 
friction hitch:

I like both the distel and the Vt but I can make
the distel more compact so I use the distel most
of the time.

Maybe I suck and can't tie a good Vt.

I also use 9mm (3/8") Sta-Set, and I've never
tried the 8mm.

boots:

I like the Husqvarna climbers boots. Low heel,
non-metallic toe cap, chainsaw resistant and
comfy. Then again what do I know.
 
Originally posted by RockyJSquirrel
Thanks everyone, for confirming what I suspected. Fully half of the members here are using the most advanced climbing hitches available, not even counting the few who are using mechanical items such as the LockJack. This tells me that we are among the cream of the crop out there. In my travels I have not met too many people who use anything other than a Blake's hitch. I'm not criticizing, but it shows that the majority of the industry out there is not in tune with the latest methods and tools.

True to that! This is the same way i feel, around Kansas City i would bet of the climbers i know and know of there might be 5 or 6 climbing on anything other than a blakes or tl, come on people this isn't the stone age, I'm trying to convert the guys i work w/ soon enough, as soon as their split tails wear out they wont' have a choice, eye and eye prusiks for the lot.. It does feel good being among the most knowledgeable in the area let alone the industry,,,,It says alot about our active members here......This site along w/ tree _____.something are some of the best things iv'e done to increase my knowledge.. We have among the best and most advanced climbers in the world here. Where could be a better place to learn...:D
 
I will give it a shot...

in Kansas City there are 5-6 climber that dont use a blakes or a tl. He is gonna try to convert the climbers he works with, when their split tails wear out, and they wont have a choice. They will be getting eye-eye prusick cords for everyone. It feels good to be among the best (active members only) he also gives credit to tree buz. The most advanced climbers are here, and there is no better place to learn from.
 
Even better, Rutherfordium. It is rather universal. I gotta be able to uderstand what I say when I get thinkin faster than I can talk.
 
Originally posted by hooks
tautline ; served me well for many years. still working

But vt much better.

Yeah, Brandon is a bright young fellah, I worked with him on one of his Uncles crews for a week or so. Maybe I infected him :D .

I bet he was well caffinated when he was tyoing that. looks more Kenny then JP :D ;) :p
 
I agree that the VT is much better. I have just started using DdRT, but the VT is great. I am rather heavy at 230 pounds, but I didnt have to "fine tune" the VT. I made 3 or 4 wraps and 3-4 crosses... I cant remember which, it used up all the slack from the UT tress cord. It worked like a dream... I use to hate friction hitches for climbing (SRT) because the would get to tight, but then I got the i'D, and that made it easy.

I would say give the VT a try, if you dont like it then you can go back to the TH.
 
I used the DdRT for the rest of today. I like it. I perfer the Ditsal over the VT for ascending, and the VT for working. A little fine tuning is in order to get the VT set for everything. When ascending today, I used a pantin, and FL up. I would hold the hitch side with my hands (My hands are soft tonight), and let the hitch float up. When I was setting down I would pull the VT out, so it would grip properly.

Quick question... on the VT, do the wraps and crosses serve a specific purpose, and if so what is it. My thoughts are that the wraps stretch out the crosses, and set the hitch when weight is applied. The crosses allow for the varying amount of friciton by colapsing them.

Any thoughts?
 

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