Gasket Delete sealant?

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randallpacific

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I'm assembling a MS880 with a gasket delete. I have Hylomar universal blue. Says it resistants fuel, oil etc. max temp is 483 degree and has a 500 psi resistance. Has anyone used this in place of a cylinder gasket? and if so, how was it applied? one side or both, finger or acid brush? And was there any long term issues?
 
I'm assembling a MS880 with a gasket delete. I have Hylomar universal blue. Says it resistants fuel, oil etc. max temp is 483 degree and has a 500 psi resistance. Has anyone used this in place of a cylinder gasket? and if so, how was it applied? one side or both, finger or acid brush? And was there any long term issues?
I have for many years, works perfect. One side is enough but if you prefer do both, it will squeeze out the excess.
 
I believe it was conjured up to seal automotive crankcases, maybe Porsche but it certainly is great for chainsaw engines.
Nope not Porsche......was invented by Rolls Royce.....mostly for aircraft engines. I was turned on to it years ago by a VW firm to help seal the head gaskets on VW turbocharged diesel engines. They had aluminum heads on a cast iron block so between the differing thermal expansion rates, vibration and extreme pressure they had a rather high gasket failure rate. It's the only sealant I use on anything critical. Of the many nice things about it, my favorites are it stays where you put it, never hardens, not affected by any fuels and cleans up easily should the parts need to be disassembled later. Use it sparingly...no need to overdo it....just a thin film is all that's needed, generally applied with a finger.
 
Nope not Porsche......was invented by Rolls Royce.....mostly for aircraft engines. I was turned on to it years ago by a VW firm to help seal the head gaskets on VW turbocharged diesel engines. They had aluminum heads on a cast iron block so between the differing thermal expansion rates, vibration and extreme pressure they had a rather high gasket failure rate. It's the only sealant I use on anything critical. Of the many nice things about it, my favorites are it stays where you put it, never hardens, not affected by any fuels and cleans up easily should the parts need to be disassembled later. Use it sparingly...no need to overdo it....just a thin film is all that's needed, generally applied with a finger.
I was too lazy last evening/night to look at who had it invented, been using it for a very long time. It was recommended to me in the 70`s when replacing aluminum cylinder heads on the Datsun 1200`s. Same thing there, cast iron block and aluminum head, they also wore out or destroyed valve guides and seats if used for high speed long runs, great car for around town pickups.
 
This was the first time I've used this site for advise. THANK YOU ALL for your input, it's reassuring. I know Motoseal, 1184 and 1194 are great for sealing. But my 880 is going get a serious workout milling lumber and I was attracted to the higher temperature range and PSI of the Hylomar blue, also I use a full synthetic oil (Motul T2) in my fuel mix and i'd read it's safe with synthetics.
 
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