GB chainsaw mills... do they realy exist?

[coveredinsap]

It looks like a more solid setup than my alaskan mill

Looking at it....I don't know. I supose it depends on what the bar studs are mounted to. From what I've seen, it appears to be not uncommon on chainsaws to mount bar studs to a small plate of metal embedded in the plastic body of the saw. That being the case, it's only switching the stress point from on the bar a few inches from where it protrudes from the saw, to the actual bar stud mounts themselves. And I don't know if putting that kind of load on the bar studs is better or worse than having it on the bar. After all....the bar is replaceable...

 

[CaseyForrest]

Two questions...

1) Can you get at the adjuster on the Stihl without removing the mill?

2) Does the GB Mill fasten to the end of the bar tip on the chain saw? I can't see from the picture..

It looks like a more solid setup than my alaskan mill

1) yes you can get at the adjuster, loosen the allen bolts, and the bar studs and slide a regular screwdriver through one of the slots. After 2 gallons of gas I have only had to tighten the chain up twice though.

2) yes it clamps on the tip of the bar.

 

[oldsaw]

Looking at it....I don't know. I supose it depends on what the bar studs are mounted to. From what I've seen, it appears to be not uncommon on chainsaws to mount bar studs to a small plate of metal embedded in the plastic body of the saw. That being the case, it's only switching the stress point from on the bar a few inches from where it protrudes from the saw, to the actual bar stud mounts themselves. And I don't know if putting that kind of load on the bar studs is better or worse than having it on the bar. After all....the bar is replaceable...

The GB looks like a really nice mill, very well built, and well engineered...But, personally, I agree with coveredinsap. I like to use my stuff for a LONG time, and I wouldn't want the stress transferred to the saw, especially through the studs. Lot of vibration with some good weight on them. Probably works great in practice. I certainly wouldn't tell someone NOT to buy one, GB is certainly not some fly-by-night company and have thought the stress issue and found it acceptable. Gives me the "willies" though.

My wimpy old 36" Oregon bar shows no stress from milling a couple of thousand board feet of hardwoods with an 066 hanging off the end and is still ruler flat (vertical stress, it is horizontally about worn out, but it was nearly a goner when I got it with the saw).

With that over, get one and get milling some wood...but take pictures, I'm suffering from withdrawl, and not enough people post chainsaw milling pictures.

Mark

 

[MikeInParadise]

I'm suffering from withdrawl, and not enough people post chainsaw milling pictures.

I agree. We have more snow on the ground then usual at this time of year. I was at the wood lot yesterday to see how much snow was there...(My avatar is taken at the front driveway to the lot)

Be a little while longer before I can get at it again..

 

[BIG JAKE]

GB mill

Heres my GB and my 066;

Casey how easily does the GB mill adjust for depth etc? Can you post a pic and does it have scribed depth measurements like the Alaskan? Also, if you've used an Alaskan before can you give us your opinion on the comparison of the two?

Thanks

 

[Lakeside53]

Looking at it....I don't know. I supose it depends on what the bar studs are mounted to. From what I've seen, it appears to be not uncommon on chainsaws to mount bar studs to a small plate of metal embedded in the plastic body of the saw. That being the case, it's only switching the stress point from on the bar a few inches from where it protrudes from the saw, to the actual bar stud mounts themselves. And I don't know if putting that kind of load on the bar studs is better or worse than having it on the bar. After all....the bar is replaceable...

It is uncommon for bar studs to mount in plastic on saws used for milling - only on consumer saws, none of which are being discussed here... and you know my opinion of using a mill of any type on a plastic chassis saw with a limited duty cycle (occasional use).

Look like it would work just fine... I use a Granberg, but doubt it's any better than the GB. I wouldn't be worried about using the stud mount on a pro saw - in some ways it might make for a stiffer rig.

 

[NWCS]

i used to own a grandberg mill and liked it alot. i will be ordering a GB mill for myself soon. for adjustment the GB mill has 4 posts instead of 2. i cant say for sure if they are marked but i would assume so. one thing i am annoyed with is the lack of chisel ripping chain. every place i check its semi chisel or chipper! i may have to try setting my simington 450 chisel grinder up to do my own line of rip chain.

 

[CaseyForrest]

Casey how easily does the GB mill adjust for depth etc? Can you post a pic and does it have scribed depth measurements like the Alaskan? Also, if you've used an Alaskan before can you give us your opinion on the comparison of the two?

Thanks

Lets see, there are two knobs, one on either tower for adjusting the depth of cut. There are rulers on either side, but it would be alot easier to make up some blocks of differing depths and use those to set the height.

If you look directly under the bar that runs horizontally with the handle on it, you can see one of the knobs on the chainsaw side.
I have never used an Alaskan, so I cant compare.

 

[kagewages]

Dont know how to post a link, but I read
"Any of you into CHAINSAW MILLING ??
I thought that there was a forum for milling on here?? anyway...
I just got the new GB mills in and I am rather impressed. I sell the Granberg MKIII mills and these are quite a bit more substantial and they appear to be very rigid. They have 4 vertical uprights intead of two- but what is really unique with these mills is that they clamp to the power head instead of just the bar and that makes a world of difference in terms of rigidity. The Grandbergs if you use them long enough will fail the bar due to fatigue the way that they clamp to the bar.
(posted by jsikkema1) "

and I liked the sound of them.
Any idea of the price ?

I have been trying to find a GB chainsaw mill to buy online and I cant find one ANYWHERE. Are they still being made? Can you still buy them? Where ?
Help me please.

I have one I bought it 12 years ago or so. I just unpacked it and mice have shredded the instructions. any one out there have a copy I could buy, have , or copy ..Its not like other chainsaw mill. thanks

 

[kagewages]

The GB looks like a really nice mill, very well built, and well engineered...But, personally, I agree with coveredinsap. I like to use my stuff for a LONG time, and I wouldn't want the stress transferred to the saw, especially through the studs. Lot of vibration with some good weight on them. Probably works great in practice. I certainly wouldn't tell someone NOT to buy one, GB is certainly not some fly-by-night company and have thought the stress issue and found it acceptable. Gives me the "willies" though.

My wimpy old 36" Oregon bar shows no stress from milling a couple of thousand board feet of hardwoods with an 066 hanging off the end and is still ruler flat (vertical stress, it is horizontally about worn out, but it was nearly a goner when I got it with the saw).

With that over, get one and get milling some wood...but take pictures, I'm suffering from withdrawl, and not enough people post chainsaw milling pictures.

Mark

Can anyone send me some up closeup pictures of a assembled GB MILL please. with out directions and all.the loose bolds , nuts and parts . I'm confused..