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VTMechEng

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Here is what vtclimber (my fiance for those of you that have not looked at the extreamly large thread placed by her) and I have decided to do. While we do want a floating D type saddle the Master II seems to have more attachments and versitility. Also, it will breath more in the summer because it doesn't use leather. We didn't want to get the versatile because of the bosun seat and the pro series is WAY out of our price range. I did have a question though. I saw in the Sherrill catalog this option, connect a short piece of rope with a spliced eye at each end to the side attachment points. This can then be used as a floating D with the help of a pulley. The only thing I can't figure out is how they get both ends of the spiliced line through the attachement loops. Sorry for the long message and thanks for the help.
 
sorry

Sorry guys, this was supposed to be an addition to my earlier thread.
 
Are you refering to the Glide? If so, all pieces of that saddle can be replaced. You can take apart the sections where the bridge 'rope' is and over come what seems impossible. Have not had to do it yet myself and they said it was made to work.
Jack
 
explination

I posted a question regarding what saddle to purchase and I know VTclimber also ask a question about it. We decided to go with the Master II instead of the Floating D wideback and I was just curious about adding a floating D system to the Master II using a rope having a spliced eye at each end. If you guys know how to do this, have an pics of this being done or recommend against it please let me know. Thanks guys.
 
I've done the home made bridge with a little stable braid tied to delta links.

It works, maybe not as well as a sliding d saddle, but I've found the Master to be the best all around saddle form me.

I'm a big guy though;)
 
I was thinking of using a small clevis to connect each spliced eye end to the saddle. Obviously I was use one with a load capacity way over that of the biner to keep it from being the weakest link. What do ya think? The nice thing about being a Mechanical engineer in this field is I can figure out the load capacity of things used in each application, making sure I don't overload something.
 
Originally posted by VTMechEng
I was thinking of using a small clevis to connect each spliced eye end to the saddle. Obviously I was use one with a load capacity way over that of the biner to keep it from being the weakest link. What do ya think? The nice thing about being a Mechanical engineer in this field is I can figure out the load capacity of things used in each application, making sure I don't overload something.


most people use a small bow shackle or clevis... Small ones, not rigging ones. Most use a small stainless steel, it needs to be rated to 5k each. For the bridge you can use a eye to eye spliced climbing line of your choice or a spectra sling... the bridge needs to be rated to 5.4k (to be ANSI compliant for the most part).

Your biner must be rated to at least 5.4k, so that would make your setup around 2xs stronger (not takin bridge angles into account). Check out the glide to get ideas, but I don't care for the glide, it seems to bulky to me.
 
Originally posted by John Paul Sanborn
I find the Mallion Rapide delta links better then shackle with the way they load and attatch.

What size do you use?

I remember that someone posted a link on where they got theres.

There has been some discussion about the bow shackles being improperly loaded, and a delta link is better suited to the loading in 3 directions (hence its purpose). But what about the eye being stuffed down into the corner of the delta, repetally, constantly and sometimes forcefully (with your small size and all, how much do you weigh?)? Might not matter, just wondering if it causes increased wear?
 
For the bridge, using a fishermans knot, the rope does not move around much. The wear on the stitched attatcment point on the saddle is no worse the using a carbiner.

I'm 260# without my gear on (heck, by boots are a few punds each) and been in this sadde for over 4 years. I keep a couple deltas on it for quick attatchment.

Size I think is 3/8 and the MR is man rated, it hink 6k??? I got them from Sherrill several years ago.

I find haning the gate facing outboard owrks best. I finger tight them, but some prefer to use a wrench.
 
I was looking at using a web shackle to connect the spliced ends to the saddle. I can get a 3/4" rated at 6500 lb or 1" at 1300 lb and figure with a large wrench and some loctite it will be good and safe. The advantage of a web shackle is its small length, attached is a pic of this where C is only 1.5 in.
If there is something wrong with my logic please let me know. Thanks.
 
Saddle

VTMECHENG,

I have read most of your (and yours) posts. and I'm afraid I have to add my $.02/ Canadians worth. One thing a lot of people forget is that ALL nylon, or synthetic fibers, grow with use!!
The second thing is that, while all the add-on stuff is great, until you forget to tuck this-or- that in and something comes undone.
The one thing you must also consider in your part of the country is that you may be climbing in a snow storm one day and in a tee-shirt the next. That is to say ADJUSTMENT is critical.
I started out with a Buckingham Pinnicle and loved it, then I switched over to a Weaver "1038" and found that I sweat less under the leather than I do under the Nylon.
I'm in agreement with the others, and would not suggest using the shackle. Most or all retailers carry many makes of saddles, and are more than willing to size the person with the proper saddle, for the jobs you will be doing. Myself, I wear the for removals and the Weaver for pruning (Especially if linb walking).
Buy her the best you can afford, and keep in mind that you should have a stand-by saddle in case there must be a ariel rescue!

Just my thoughts,

PS Welcome to the site!!!!!!
 
I thank you for the info and agree that the shackle is not the best option. On the other hand I still think that the Master II is a better saddle. Also, leather will stretch even more then tightly woven nylon and will tend to wear more when weathered. There is a reason so few saddles are made of leather these days. If anyone has a suggestion on the proper way to connect a floating D setup on the Master II or the like it would be very helpful. Thanks.

Stephen
 
This would be a perfect place for a bow shackle. I reccomend these non-snaggers!

No Snag Bow Shackle

Also, you could use a webbing strap like the kind rock climbers use. You can get them as short as 4 or 5 inches....should be perfect for this application!

love
nick
 
The problem with the shackles you show are how much room they take up. If each is 4" in length that is 8" of mobility lost and the carabineers will have a tendency to get cought in them.
 
What size shackles would be suitable for this app? As in SWL and such.... 5000 tensile, but the tensiles aint listed there.



Carl
 
I called the manufacturer a few weeks ago and they said that for that product the SWL is determined using a 5:1 safety factor. That means the 5/16th would be the way to go!

Here's a pic of the strap I was talking about. This one is made by DMM:) but there are many manufacturers that make them. Make sure it is rated for 23kn. Also, if you go to a rock climbing shop (REI) ask for a "quickdraw." This usually includeds the webbing and two carabiners. Ask what the price is for just the webbing. Shouldn't be more than 5 dollars if it's less than a foot long. (By bridge is 9 inches long, one of the guys at work like 14")

http://www.gearexpress.biz/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=G&Product_Code=7755

love
nick
 
TreeJunkie, if I remember correctly, you are using these same shackles on your saddle. What size did you go with?

love
nick
 

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