Got a Stihl 009l

[fulladirt]

I got an 009l for free that I want to put to work. It ran pretty well last time I used it...BUT the problem is when I fill it up with gas it all drains down into the bar oil reservoir! I thought jeez if a spark comes off the bar I'd be running for my life.

I'm pretty new at doing saw repair, do I have to take the whole thing apart? Is this a common problem with these saws? Any help is appreciated guys thanks.

 

[TBS]

Bad gasket or cracked case half.

 

[fulladirt]

Guess I'm taking it apart then. Saw was never crushed or run over so thinkin it's the gasket. Thanks for the picture.
Do I need any special tools to split the case?

 

[CJH]

I'm putting one (011AV) back together after splitting the case. Only snag could be the two dowel pins. Press fit into one side, snug fit into its mate. A little heat from a heat gun would help. Tap carefully on crank, protect threads... Both bearings are needle type, case halves separate without a fuss.

Gaskets and a surprising number of parts are still available from Stihl. Check with dealer before resorting to eBay.

If rotten fuel was left in tank, possible that it corroded and affected the gasket surface . Mine was close to leaking, bead blasted, and used JB Weld to fill the pits and restore the gasket surface. Then coated inside of fuel tank with POR15 fuel tank sealer. If you need the sealer, let me know, 9/10 of the small can left. I can send it to you.

 

[fulladirt]

That's good news CJH, didn't realize the crank rides on needle bearings.
I think it musta been crappy fuel ate the gasket, I will inspect the surfaces closely when I get it split.
And thanks for offer on the sealer, never heard of it before, it coats the whole inside gasket and all?

 

[ray benson]

I got an 009l for free that I want to put to work. It ran pretty well last time I used it...BUT the problem is when I fill it up with gas it all drains down into the bar oil reservoir! I thought jeez if a spark comes off the bar I'd be running for my life.

I'm pretty new at doing saw repair, do I have to take the whole thing apart? Is this a common problem with these saws? Any help is appreciated guys thanks.

Check your inbox for the ipl and service manual.

 

[CJH]

Here's the POR15 info. Typically poured into a tank and "sloshed" around to coat the inside (cars, motorcycles...). In this case, with the case split, I simply brushed it onto all surfaces (except the gasket surface). It would be difficult to clean out the little nooks & crannies in the tank without blasting. But small picks, a Dremel, a couple cans of beer and lots of time would work.

https://www.por15.com/POR-15-Fuel-Tank-Sealer_p_64.html

To restore the flatness of the gasket surface, I used a flat file to lightly take down the JB Weld on the mating surfaces. Then a sharpening stone large enough to span across the entire case half, again lightly to get the surface flat. The dowel pins are in the way, they can be driven out, but easy enough to work around them

There are two gaskets available, shown in this write up (good step by step tear down of an 009):

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/st...ne-rebuild-009-010-011-012-chain-saws.256795/

Great little saws, run like champs! They do seem to multiply, one becomes two, then 3,4... The orange 011 in my signature now has three newer white cousins to keep it company. If you're doing a restoration, I can give you some paint suggestions. Or just run its ass off!

 

[fulladirt]

Wow you guys are awesome, don't know what to say but thank-you!

I got this saw from my uncle, it had been used here and there on the farm, probably hasn't seen a whole lotta use. It's a white one, I think he bought it new, but don't know when. I used it a few times years ago, always liked the "poppin" idle and power it has in a compact size. Anyway we needed a small saw quick so got a new echo top handle and I took the 009L thinking I could fix it. Hopefully by the end of the week I'll start tearing it down.

 

[fulladirt]

Got started tearing it down. I don't think it's a bad saw to work on, was enjoying it. The oiler looks to be missing a piece, will have to order that along with gaskets. Took a few pictures,



Clutch removal tool,



Inside cylinder looks good no scoring or other issues I could tell,



Piston and rings lookin good too,



Hopefully soon I'll get the cases split and see what went wrong there but really optimistic I'll be able to get it running good as new with a few parts and best of all minimal cost. Can't wait to hear this thing poppin away like they're known for...

 

[alfbolin]

Keep the progress pictures coming. Interesting. I have an 009l I am gonna have to Split and swap out one of the case halves on.

 

[67L36Driver]

Check carefully the oiler parts (diaphragm) as it can leave you dead in the water.

 

[jltrent]

Good luck on those pin bearings

 

[fulladirt]

Keep the progress pictures coming. Interesting. I have an 009l I am gonna have to Split and swap out one of the case halves on.

Why does yours need to be split, same thing as mine?

 

[fulladirt]

Check carefully the oiler parts (diaphragm) as it can leave you dead in the water.

Will be doing that for sure. I might switch it to the other oiler that has a face plate instead of the rubber bit while I'm at it.

Good luck on those pin bearings

Oh yeah, they all fell out rollin around in the crankcase. I'll have to goop some grease on get em to stick.

 

[67L36Driver]

Will be doing that for sure. I might switch it to the other oiler that has a face plate instead of the rubber bit while I'm at it.



Oh yeah, they all fell out rollin around in the crankcase. I'll have to goop some grease on get em to stick.

I posted some where how to reinstall them rollers.

Get half of them in with a holder made from strip brass.

Rest with a wide rubber band.

Slide the rod over and move to BDC.

Lock it there.

 

[67L36Driver]

BTW, the 012 PC is a very worthwhile change.

For 011 only I think.[emoji848]

Just 4cc makes a lot of difference. [emoji15]

 

[fulladirt]

Hell yeah that's awesome, I love not having to buy specialty tools. I'll be using your tricks to get em back in place and thanks a lot for the pictures.

 

[TheTone]

Here's the POR15 info. Typically poured into a tank and "sloshed" around to coat the inside (cars, motorcycles...). In this case, with the case split, I simply brushed it onto all surfaces (except the gasket surface). It would be difficult to clean out the little nooks & crannies in the tank without blasting. But small picks, a Dremel, a couple cans of beer and lots of time would work.

I once used POR15 to restore a Corvette gas tank and did the whole process of cleaner, prep, and sealer. I now have a Stihl 026 with bare metal in the crankcase and oil tank. I was wondering if you did the whole process or just cleaned the surfaces and painted with POR15. Would be interested in knowing the details of your procedure.

 

[CJH]

I'll get photos of the finished product tonight. I had the case split, easy to clean out the crud.

Lots of nooks and crannies, so I bead blasted the fuel side. Filled the pits and gasket surface where the corrosion was pecking away at it (small area in the bottom corner). Brushed on two coats. Very thin liquid as you remember.

For the hell of it, I did a spot in the oil side without blasting (didn't need it) . That peeled off. No doubt from not blasting. Tried to peel the fuel side, no dice, holding tight!

 

[CJH]

Check carefully the oiler parts (diaphragm) as it can leave you dead in the water.

Check a Still dealer, surprisingly, the diaphragm, foam filter and gaskets are still available. Thank you Stihl!

If you Google the part numbers, a place near me will likely pop up (OMB Warehouse). If part is available it will show up with a price. Pick up only, (Stihl's requirement). Gives you an idea what you can get from your local dealer.

Great tip on the rod bearings! Tacky grease is the trick. I lost a tiny needle bearing on an old Homelite (28 in that saw), luckily Leon's had them.

As a gut check, your 009 has 12 rollers.