Got burnt buying an 026

[cookies]

Yeah that air filter is just wrong, choke plate is right in the flow. You could say it directs flow from the top area of the filter but…. Wish i had a 3d printer, could make a nicer filter setup, maybe even cover friendly.

I see two sellers that have aftermarket cranks and state ”meets or exceeds Oem” This seller, Wolf Creek is 100% rating and 20k transactions. Lil red barn stated the same about the 026 crankshaft they sell. It‘s hard buying used Oem crankshafts “From running saw, Oem 026 crank, no refunds, check pictures closely”. Only AM crank that someone with a lot of experience said was good was a Raisman Platt, that I have found so far. Must be someone here that has a good Oem one they will part with.

View attachment 1124126

Look on ebay for a used crank for less than 30 bucks, even used oem is much better than a aftermarket. It does not matter if the seller lists no refunds...if there is a issue ebay will step in

 

[Mad Professor]

Can this be done on the old style crankcases that don't have the cutout in the bottom for the adjustment screwdriver?

It was a few years back. I'll have to check on that one if I drilled an access hole? The parts bolt up.

I think you can set the oiler to WOT when installed and not adjust it/drill case.

I set all my oilers WOT. 026 don't need an adjustable oiler, but they will pizz oil when at idle.

 

[Woodchuckr]

Look on ebay for a used crank for less than 30 bucks, even used oem is much better than a aftermarket. It does not matter if the seller lists no refunds...if there is a issue ebay will step in

I saw a couple oem on ebay, 13$, 18$,45$, 80+$. I usually reach out to sellers buying this kinda stuff, ask questions, check reviews/ratings. Even then it didn’t work out so well buying the saw.

 

[SteveSr]

026 don't need an adjustable oiler, but they will pizz oil when at idle.

This is why I got/converted all of our trail saws. The excess oil ends up all over the saw.

 

[cookies]

I saw a couple oem on ebay, 13$, 18$,45$, 80+$. I usually reach out to sellers buying this kinda stuff, ask questions, check reviews/ratings. Even then it didn’t work out so well buying the saw.

I spend thousands a year on ebay buying parts, not just for saws. the best advice is contact the seller asap and send stuff back asap if it is sold as functioning but is not, order stuff using priority mail as the minimum speed...or your stuck waiting 10 days to find out if its junk. Buy what you need and move on, you waste precious time playing mind games because you got burned in the past on a deal.

 

[94 wrangler]

You can change the pump and clutch drum on a 026 to put on an adjustable oiler.

OP, looks like a big end rod bearing came loose. Never had on do it on a saw but seen it on motocross cycles.

How is that possible if the 026 does not have the adjustment access in the bottom of the saw?

 

[82F100SWB]

Where are you located? I've got a bunch of good shortblocks I'm never going to get around to building...

 

[SteveSr]

How is that possible if the 026 does not have the adjustment access in the bottom of the saw?

The early 026 was based on the 024/024 Super that did not have a chain driven oiler The Super became the 026. Stihl was still selling a boat load of 028s that did have the chain driven oiler. I think that it was around 1996 that Stihl introduced the 026 Pro model that had the chain driven oiler among other upgrades. This basically ended the 028 era as the 026 Pro was the same displacement as the 028 in a smaller and lighter package.

 

[Woodchuckr]

Where are you located? I've got a bunch of good shortblocks I'm never going to get around to building...

T.bay, I Think the wife or I will be passing through on or way to Winnipeg shortly. Can we do a phone call?

 

[Woodchuckr]

How is that possible if the 026 does not have the adjustment access in the bottom of the saw?

Some do have the hole but are not adjustable. My original 026 has the hole, no adjuster. It’s not a red lever or a Pro.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Probably neither here nor there , but I had tree service guy bring me an 066 the other day that was over revving regardless of how rich you turned the needle out. So, I put a $20 Chinese carb on it and it tamed down and runs fine.

It was a dog of a saw a few years back that the bearing had come out and flywheel banged the ignition module until it wallowed those threads out. Tapped them to 12-24 I'm thinking.

Anyhow, I put a Chinese crankshaft in it, don't remember what piston. Charged him $250 out the door.

He's been using it at least five years. Not every day I'm sure. But, still he has it when he needs it and no way anybody would spend much on it.


At my age my memory comes in spurts. The problem with the ignition screws was that he kept taking it to the Stihl dealer and they kept tightening them until they stripped them when it wasn't the module but the flywheel that was moving. I suspect the tech knew and just didn't want to screw with it.

 

[Lightning Performance]

The red lever is also the old tank assembly and more restrictive air filter. It also doesn't have and can't be modified for a clutch/chain driven oiler. IMHO, the desirable 026s are the "Pro" versions.

They sell aftermarket pumps to replace the OEM plastic one with an adjustable assembly.

 

[Woodchuckr]

Probably neither here nor there , but I had tree service guy bring me an 066 the other day that was over revving regardless of how rich you turned the needle out. So, I put a $20 Chinese carb on it and it tamed down and runs fine.

It was a dog of a saw a few years back that the bearing had come out and flywheel banged the ignition module until it wallowed those threads out. Tapped them to 12-24 I'm thinking.

Anyhow, I put a Chinese crankshaft in it, don't remember what piston. Charged him $250 out the door.

He's been using it at least five years. Not every day I'm sure. But, still he has it when he needs it and no way anybody would spend much on it.


At my age my memory comes in spurts. The problem with the ignition screws was that he kept taking it to the Stihl dealer and they kept tightening them until they stripped them when it wasn't the module but the flywheel that was moving. I suspect the tech knew and just didn't want to screw with it.

I got lucky on a carb I ordered of Alixpress, 13$. Came in the Walbro box, worked fine.

 

[ZeroJunk]

I got lucky on a carb I ordered of Alixpress, 13$. Came in the Walbro box, worked fine.

They are not as bad as some on here seem to think. I have gotten a few bad ones, but have likely bought at least 50.

That is the only crankshaft I have bought, and it seems to be holding up fine.

Seems to me to be a better option than buying something used. And, new OEM is out of the question on an old dog of a saw.

 

[Woodchuckr]

Happy Holidays everyone! Thought i’d post an update, Filed a complaint with paypal, got a full refund. Free saw, scammer busted. I cleaned up the dings on the piston, glued some sandpaper on top and cleaned up the dings in the squish band. Last .200” of the piston skirt is .003”-.004” smaller than just under the second ring but no scuffs on the skirt. Not sure if thats ok. Anybody have all the specs handy for this saw? I was trying to check the piston to ring clearance, especially where the dings were near the edges. Picture really makes the piston look bad on top compared to real life.

Any guesses what caused the damage? Both rod bearings feel/look good. Not sure what part of that ball bearing would make marks that shape.

Hard determining what the squish was with no gasket. Once it let go It wouldn’t make a full revolution.

 

[ZeroJunk]

In your first photo the crank bearing cage is gone. So, it wandered out doing whatever on the way.

 

[Woodchuckr]

In your first photo the crank bearing cage is gone. So, it wandered out doing whatever on the way.

The cage on the other bearing looks like plastic. Would it do that kinda damage?

 

[Woodchuckr]

In your first photo the crank bearing cage is gone. So, it wandered out doing whatever on the way.

When it misfired at wot on the first run I found this blob stuck to the head. Didn’t know what it was till now but there was no damage on the piston at that time. It felt like mud.

 

[thompsoncustom]

Top of the piston/Cylinder looks like a needle bearing came apart on the rod, make sure your lower one isn't missing any.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Top of the piston/Cylinder looks like a needle bearing came apart on the rod, make sure your lower one isn't missing any.

Looks more the length of a ring stop pin.