Got the 35HP Vanguard on the SC252

[stumper63]

No, you have to buy a muffler from them too. You want part # 841571, it's a factory Briggs muffler that the exhaust empties out on the starter side of th engine like the Kohler does. It was $110

While you're at it get the oil drain valve, #12774, it replaces the drain bolt. It's $17.65. Then you can just put a piece of hose to it every time you change oil and you don't have to drain it all over the frame. The factory Vermeer drain hose on your Kohler won't fit the Vanguard.

Stumper63

 

[arbor pro]

stumper, thanks for all the info. I'm talking with another guy (mechanic/body shop guy) who says he can put the new engine on for me if I get all the details so I am looking for a full list of everything I need to order just for the engine mod - not looking to increase drive speed with a new hyd pump at this time. Do I have a complete list...

1) engine: Briggs model # is 613477-0130-E1. 35 HP - Vanguard Series OHV V-twin, cast iron cylinder sleeves, multi-stage industrial air cleaner, 12 volt electric start, 20amp alternator,
1-7/16" x 4-1/2" Keyed crankshaft D/T 5/8-18, Manual throttle, push / pull choke, key switch, 5" round muffler (starter side outlet), has fuel pump, no tank from Small Engine Warehouse, possibly use 613477-1118 if previous model is out of stock.

2) Muffler - part # 841571, factory Briggs muffler that the exhaust empties out on the starter side of the engine like the Kohler does. It was $110

3) Oil drain valve, #12774, it replaces the drain bolt. It's $17.65

4) Jackshaft - 1 1/2" - where can I buy/get this?

anything else just for the engine mod? did I understand correctly that the stock clutch is fine as are stock pulleys and belts if not changing out the hydraulic pump? (Speed of travel not a big deal to me).

thanks. AP

 

[stumper63]

ArbroPro,

The jackshaft, if you want to upsize to the 1.5", will have to be made at a local machine shop. The stock sheaves, or pulleys on each end of the jackshaft are fine, you just need to get 1.5" i.d. bushings that fit into the stock pulleys. Here's the Motion Industries invoice #'s:

H 1-1/2 BUSHING, TL, QD. $9.37
SH 1-1/2 BUSHING, TL, QD $14.59
You will also need 1.5" bearings, just use the same ones as the cutter wheel shaft.
Then take your factory jackshaft, existing pulleys, and new bushings and bearings to the machine shop and ask them to copy the factory jackshaft, just upsize to 1.5". A machinist friend of mine did mine for me, charged me about $125. It's more than the factory Vermeer, but hopefully should never have to change it. Plyscamp used to use the factory shaft but broke one or two so did the upsize and hasn't had any trouble since. That's why I went ahead and did it.

You should do the hydraulic pump pulley mod. You are not replacing the pump or bushing, just the pulley, or sheave as it is called, to a 3.5" diameter. You will kick yourself if you don't do it, or at least you should. Best $25 you'll spend on the machine. And you won't have to pay Vermeer's prices on the belts anymore.
Also from Motion Industries:

New Pully: AK34-H $21.67
GATES TRUFLEX BELT 4L255 $3.44 EA.

The engine, muffler, and oil drain bolt were all from Small Engine Warehouse.

Hope this helps, now git'r done!

Stumper63

 

[Plyscamp]

Kudos Stumper63

On a good write up on the conversion.

 

[stumper63]

Gordy, you're the one who got this all started, thanks!

Stumper63

 

[tommyo]

I have a Rayco 1625 with the Kohler ch730 engine,it's using about 1/2 qt.oil every 8 hours:msp_mad:Might be time for a Vanguard.Anybody done the swap on a Rayco 1625???Shur would like the 10HP upgrade.

 

[Plyscamp]

Should be very similar to the Vermeer. Same clutch, same bolt pattern on the engine. Could be minor differences but should be easy enough to work around.

 

[TimberMcPherson]

Those are some very cool modifications.

Any gear made my big companies is made with compromise. Because there end user (namely us) buys with price as a big influence, they are made with a budget. So the engines are not always the best, the materials arent always the best, the development period isnt long enough to create the best design, shortcuts are made in manufacturing so there assembly isnt always the best.

Modification is good engineering evolution, I for one have no trouble buying modified gear, providing the mods make practical sence. Often otherwise sound gear needs modifications for local or operating conditions.

 

[flushcut]

opcorn:opcorn:

 

[tommyo]

Rayco 1625B

[]I finished the Vanguard transplant last week end!Pretty simple,just had to modify the motor mounting plate and Hyd.pump bracket.Thanks for the help!!:msp_smile:[View attachment 184213View attachment 184214

 

[fatkoala1]

252 hydraulic oil changes

Hi guys finally came over to this site after a year or so at TW :blush:

Stumper68 ! 4000 hours on a air cooled Kohler that amazing the previous owner of my 252 got 1500 and he thought that was good.

My question is how often do you change hydraulic oil ?, and what type ?

Also engine oil 10-30w right? every 25 to 50 hours ?

 

[stumper63]

fatkoala1,

Used Vermeer's hydraulic oil every 1000 hours. 10W30 Chevron oil changed every 100 hours. Don't forget air and fuel filters are critical. Tap dirt off outer filter once a week or so, change inner filter when it starts to turn gray, probably only every 400 hours or so. Fuel every 300 hours or so.

Stumper63

 

[Plyscamp]

Hey stumper63

Started on the new old SC252M. That's my old 1999 252 ( 4,550 hours ) with a 3 Cylinder 1835CC Lombardini diesel, with 38 HP and 84 Ft.Lbs of torque. Engine is now mounted end to end rather than sideways and is on rubber motor mounts to reduce vibration. Normal 252 hydraulics are being used for up, down, swing functions and drive. The clutch upper belts and gaurds have been removed, and replaced with a hydrostatic pump and hydraulic motor which will drive the jack shaft and cutting wheel. The cutting wheel will have variable speed with forward and reverse to clear any jams that may occur. OH YEAH the M stands for MONSTER.

 

[stumper63]

Hey Gordy,

Email some pic's, that's got to be one awesome looking 252 you've got going, itd will be an M for sure. Who would have thought of a hydrostatic motor to the wheel on a 252. You would!

Stumper63

 

[Plyscamp]

I will shoot some pics over the weekend. Everything should be ready to go by Saturday except the cutting wheel hydraulics. Doug of Agura clutch rebuilding fame is bringing over a hydraulic engineer next week to spec out the pumps and motor for the cutting wheel drive. 6,000 Hours here we come. By the way how are you doing with yor new grinder pros and cons ?

 

[stumper63]

160 hours so far, mostly all pro's. Only thing to improve if possible would be the cutter wheel belt, using the factory still. Just seems like I may not be using the full engine potetntial yet, belt slips a little sometimes when cutting very aggressively. I could tighten a little more, just don't want to stress the bearings too much. I put on Timken bearings this time instead of the factory so kind of seeing how well they do. Did you virtually eliminate belt slippage when you went to the other belts system on your 252M? Was that three or four belts?
Nothing else to report other than production seems way up. I'm gonna run some numbers of gross income divided by the hour meter and see how it compares with the 25hp Kohler average. Will wait a couple more months to get a good average.

Looking forward to those pic's.

Thanks,

Stumper63

 

[Plyscamp]

We dont see slipage on the stock belt if it is tight. If your getting slipage tighten it up until it just stops slipping. As long as you dont get carried away tightening it you will be ok. Also check the upper pulley, if it is worn enough the belt will make contact with the bottom of the groves and force silpage. I forwarded pictures today but it is the first time I have tried it with my dumb phone, most people have smart phones unfortunatly either me or my phone is not so smart.

 

[stumper63]

Don't worry, I've got a dumb phone still myself...anyway, the pic's came through fine, that will be one bad machine when you get her finished up, will be good to see the final product when you get the hydraulics figured out. How did that go yesterday?

I put all new pulleys on when I did the conversion this winter so I'll try tightening it up a bit more. I replaced that upper pulley a couple of times on the old 252.

Stumper63

 

[Arboristo]

Hello guys,

I'm from the Netherlands where I operate a grinding business since a few years. I own a late 2008 sc252 with the electronic censored control handles, which I am considering to fit a Vanguard 35 hp on.

Very often the 27hp from the Kohler is not enough when grinding a stump out here in de heavy clay.

Now, my question is, if anybody knows if the 2008 model can be converted with the same Vanguard 35hp series as you guys used for the older sc252's? Is there any differences between earlier and later models sc252, other than electronic censored controls?

 

[2treeornot2tree]

I was considering putting that 35 hp b & S motor on my Rayco 1625a sjr when my 25 kohlor dies.

Has anyone done a engine mod on a 1625 rayco?