grease for the roller bar thingee.....

[Chainsaw_Maniac]

Why are your bars taking more wear on one side. Is it only Windsor bars.

Frank

The windsor bars I had seemed to be made of a softer steel than the stihls. I find that any bar will eventually take more wear on one side than the other. That will cause it to cut in a curve, and when i take the chain off I can see that it's uneven. Also, burs develop along the side after a lot of use.

Originally posted by bwalker
Thats why your getting only 200 face cord out of a bar. Stihl laminated bars(and lams in general) are not to hot. The steel used to make them is not up to the quality of a solid, rsn bar. Since you are in canada and can not get German made Stihl bars I would use a Windsor rsn. I started using them after having a problem with a oregon. I found them to have much harder rails than a oregon and a better tip attachment system as well. Keep in mind that most stihl bars sold in Canada are oregons. The exception tot his is rsn bars over 28".

Right, so my bars are laminated stihls which are made by oragon. I find these are superior to laminated windsors. The next time I need to replace a bar on one of my saws I'll try a non-laminated widsor rsn.

Another funny thing is that it's always the 20" that I need to replace. I haven't replaced a 16" in forever even though I use my 28 and ms260 a lot, and my part time worker basically uses only the ms260. My 24" lasts forever and I don't use 18" or 28" anymore, or any other length.

Before you say it's the oilers on my big saws (066 arctic and 38 Magnum) it's not. Actually I'm satisfied with the use I'm getting aout of my bars before they need grinding. I only throw tham away when I get total damage like falling a tree wrong and beding the bar or having the sprocket at the tip break.

Also if you are cutting crooked and the bar is worn uneven it something wrong with your chain.

I have about a dozen chains that I use. I always have a few sharp spares in my toolbox. If the chain gets dull in the bush I change to another one and sharpen the old one when I get home to the workshop. If a chain that I've freshly sharpened cvuts crooked it goes on the hook to be taken in for proffesional sharpening. If a chain is damaged or rocked out it goes on that same hook. When I have 4-8 chains together that are worth saving I take them in.

So basically I always blame the chain first if it isn't cutting well. If I put a chain on that I know is perfectly sharpened (either by myself or the professional) or a brand new chain, and it still cuts crooked and I can see that the bar is getting worn I take the bar in and have it ground.

 

[Chainsaw_Maniac]

If you want to figure out what to blame for the wear opn the bars it's probably that I always skid the trees and the tops before I block them up. The amout of dirt grinding between the bar and chain in the saws of a guy cutting a lot of firewood is no doubt greater than that of any tree-trimmer or logger.

 

[Crofter]

If a normal bar ( here I mean one that was properly manufactured) has one side worn down more than the other It is a sign that the chain has been run on it with one side dull or sharpened with teeth longer on one side or different angles. Raker length also. This can occur when someone dulls a chain more on one side and removes material enough only to resharpen that side. Some grinders also do not cut equal length teeth on both sides of the chain without readjusting the stops. Most people tend to remove material easier with one hand than the other when filing unless they take measures to correct it.
The moment a chain starts to run to one side, stop and correct the problem. Don't wear your bar crooked!

Frank