Grinder burr

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Backstage

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Trying to find my tape measure
Hi all,

Dialing in (dialing myself into?) a new tecomec jolly evo grinder with a cbn wheel. It’s doing a great job except that it raises quite a burr above the cutter top plate. I have to take a flat file, knock it down, tick it with the wheel, repeat a few times until it’s clean.

This is with Oregon chain if it makes a difference? What am I doing wrong? I have a hard time believing this is the norm.
 
I have seen the same thing, a lot depends on the quality of the wheel and its plating. Had the same problem with some wheels last year. which was the same problem I saw 20+ years ago when they were the hottest thing on the block. went back to my messy stone wheels problem solved. I can buy roughly 10 stones vs one of the plated ones. cheap wheels buy a doz at time figure i will have apx 2-3 that are useless in the doz. for various reasons still less than oregon and a lot of others stone wheels. so in the long run I come out ahead.
 
do not be too agressive with those. mulitiple light taps and do not hold in place. if a lot needs to come off, do that in stages in other words go around several times . those wheels do not like a heavy load. some of it depends on the size of the grit also. some are 40/60 mixed others are 60/80 mix. apx. i use diamond and cbn/borozon wheels all day long for various jobs in my shop besides the plated wheels there are those that are made with a matrix instead of electroplated - they run cooler. Take you wheels and scrub them out with soap , water and brush they do load up. you can not use a stone on them that will just strip off the plating.
 
Hi all,

Dialing in (dialing myself into?) a new tecomec jolly evo grinder with a cbn wheel. It’s doing a great job except that it raises quite a burr above the cutter top plate. I have to take a flat file, knock it down, tick it with the wheel, repeat a few times until it’s clean.

This is with Oregon chain if it makes a difference? What am I doing wrong? I have a hard time believing this is the norm.
Could be the result of excessive heat from either pressing too hard or removing too much material at once. This won't be doing your cutters any favours either.
I like to grind in short bursts "tap-a-tap-a-tap-a-tap-a-tap..." & if there is a lot of material to be removed go around the chain twice rather than take it all off in 1 hit. If you see the cutter starting to blue you're overdoing it & if they start going red the temper is going to be shot. If done right you the cutter isn't even too hot to touch (with work hardened hands)
 
do not be too agressive with those. mulitiple light taps and do not hold in place. if a lot needs to come off, do that in stages in other words go around several times . those wheels do not like a heavy load. some of it depends on the size of the grit also. some are 40/60 mixed others are 60/80 mix. apx. i use diamond and cbn/borozon wheels all day long for various jobs in my shop besides the plated wheels there are those that are made with a matrix instead of electroplated - they run cooler. Take you wheels and scrub them out with soap , water and brush they do load up. you can not use a stone on them that will just strip off the plating.
You pipped me to it!
 
Could be the result of excessive heat from either pressing too hard or removing too much material at once. This won't be doing your cutters any favours either.
I like to grind in short bursts "tap-a-tap-a-tap-a-tap-a-tap..." & if there is a lot of material to be removed go around the chain twice rather than take it all off in 1 hit. If you see the cutter starting to blue you're overdoing it & if they start going red the temper is going to be shot. If done right you the cutter isn't even too hot to touch (with work hardened hands)
Yeah that’s about what I was doing. Cutters were getting just hot to the touch. I wasn’t removing much material but that wheel rips.

It was doing the burr on both tooth directions, but more on one side than the other. I wonder if a reverse switch would help.
 
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