Grinder wheels and degrees

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

AIM

Addicted to ArboristSite
Joined
Nov 2, 2008
Messages
1,354
Reaction score
468
Location
Montpelier, Ohio
Where do you all get the better grinding wheels for your chain grinders?
I looked at baileys website and all I saw that were the correct size were the pink ones.
I did a google search and didn't have much better luck.
I've been told that the color of the wheel designates the characteristics of the wheel. i.e. fine, coarse, type of material, etc. Is this true?
I'm not happy with the wheels that came with my northern grinder and want to get better ones.
Is there a particular wheel that is considered the BEST?

As for the "degrees" part of the title.
I have been grinding my chains differently and keeping track of performance. I have observed little to no discernible difference between using 10° tilt or no tilt at all.
I have also pretty much gone to 30° vise angle. Chains seem to cut more aggressively and seem to stay sharp equally as long as they do at 25°.
These are simply observation that I wanted to comment on.
 
I got a Northern grinder around Christmas time. I never used the wheels that came with it. I ordered a set of the Molab(sp?) wheels from Bailey's. Their made in Italy, I believe. So far, so good.

I have been using the 10 degree tilt so far, so can't speak to difference of not using it. I usually use 25 degrees on the Oregon chain, and 30 on the Woodland Pro chain from Bailey's.

Don't have enough expierance yet with what works better or worse.

:cheers:
Gregg,
 
Where do you all get the better grinding wheels for your chain grinders?
I looked at baileys website and all I saw that were the correct size were the pink ones.
I did a google search and didn't have much better luck.
I've been told that the color of the wheel designates the characteristics of the wheel. i.e. fine, coarse, type of material, etc. Is this true?
I'm not happy with the wheels that came with my northern grinder and want to get better ones.
Is there a particular wheel that is considered the BEST?

As for the "degrees" part of the title.
I have been grinding my chains differently and keeping track of performance. I have observed little to no discernible difference between using 10° tilt or no tilt at all.
I have also pretty much gone to 30° vise angle. Chains seem to cut more aggressively and seem to stay sharp equally as long as they do at 25°.
These are simply observation that I wanted to comment on.


The different color wheels are for grinders like the Silvey's. For the Oregon style grinders all the wheels I saw are pink. I like the Molemab wheels that Baileys sells. Or get a CBN wheel and never ever look back.
 
Last edited:
The good wheels for your grinder (5 3/4" dia, 22mm=7/8" hole, thicknesses 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4") are made by Efco in Italy. Molemab is one of the names they are sold under. These are vitrified (heated to high temp) and they will ring like good glass when tapped. Borizon or CBN wheels are better but are about 10 times the price of vitrified wheels. Diamond wheels must be used on carbide chains.
The 10 degree tilt with 25 degree vise angle is only for full chisel chain.
 
I have tried a number of standard type wheels and have found the PAL wheels excellent. These are made in China, marketed by GB and are also imported into Australia by Jakmax (The Australian Carlton importers) under their own name. To the best of my knowledge they are not available in the US.
Despite being Chinese they crap all over the Molemab wheels and other European wheels I have tried.
As mentioned colour of wheels is not an indication of what their specs are.

I use all ABN/CBN wheels now and there is absolutley no comparison but as mentioned they are very expensive.

I tend to stick with 30° with all my chain except milling chain (10-15°). I do use the 10° angle for chisel chain and have noticed a "slight" improvement over 0° in cutting speed but not much in it.
I mainly use semi chisel so 30° cutter angle, 0° top plate angle, and 65° for the head angle.
 
I just want to thank you guys for putting some numbers out here. This is EXTREMELY beneficial to anyone setting up their first grinder. Having some numbers to start with sure is a much better way than trying to eyeball it!
 
I'll throw my hat into the ring on this one. Being of few funds I cannot afford the expensive wheels. Since my NT grinder came with the pink wheels too....I use them. I have stuck with them and tried several things to make them work. Here's what I have discovered.....if you clean saw chains in a solvent to remove all the oils prior to sharpening, then the wheel will stay clean and pink. This, along with dressing the wheel regularly, (say once before each chain you sharpen) helps keep the wheel sharp and allows it to remove metal from the cutters without heating them up. That dressing stone came with the kit for a reason and I use it a lot. At first, my pink wheel turned black (old oil from dirty chains) and I was turning teeth blue (heat due to a dull wheel) and destroying their metallurgy (making them brittle). Not any more! Now I get lots of comments from customers that their newly sharpened chains cut better and stay sharp much longer!
 
Tecomec makes different grit wheels, and color codes them, for Oregon 511a type grinders (5-3/4" diameter), but no one seems to import them into the US. They are available in the US for the 8" diameter grinders.

I use the Molemab, Oregon, or Total vitrified wheels, which I think are better quality than the 'no-brand' wheels.

I started a thread on resinoid wheels for these grinders, which may also be of interest to you.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/resinoid-grinder-wheels.256733/

Philbert
 
Chain grinding and filing angles recommended by manufacturers are based on 'general use'. You may want to modify these for different wood, cutting conditions, saws, personal preference, etc.

If you don't notice a significant difference, then stick with the recommended angles, or whatever is easiest for you.

Philbert

http://www.oregonproducts.com/pdfs/GrindingAngles.pdf
 
I think anyone grinding chain would do well to check the hook you're getting with current settings against a piece of new chain. I have noticed it's more like factory chain to set the wheel angle at about 57-58 degrees rather than 60. I have stopped using the 10 degree vise tilt because Stihl no longer recommends it, but I noticed that Husky actually recommended it on some chisel chain I bought last winter. I think they recommended 60/25/10. There's a slight drop off in performance, but if you are using the 10 degree tilt and then forget to set it on the next grinding, you will have altered the profile of every cutter, removing metal you did not want to lose.

The graduated degree scales on these grinders are not always accurate, so if you grind your chain to look like a factory grind (regardless of whether that is 61 or 57 degrees), it is more likely to cut like one. Find those settings for your grinder and you will be close.

Other than that, I'd advise the OP to always clean out the gullets on the first few passes, but on final touch, don't take the wheel deep enough into the cutter to hit it with the flat side of the wheel. That will flatten off the point of the cutter and diminish cutting speed. Use the rounded shoulder of the wheel only.
 
Foley belsaw has the wheels for the 308 and other folets along with other make sharpeners


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Don't have much choices here , wondering what's the difference between green and pink type? Green is Al oxide and pink Si carbide I assume?
They have these two here:

0002717_brusna-ploca-105x47x222-mm.jpeg

OR-106548_5_b.jpg
 
@husq365torqx - I should note that these wheels are not all available in the US either. I did not notice a big difference between the 'Pink' and 'Green' wheels, which I was able to try. I was told that I would have to buy a box of 20 (as I recall) for the importer to get the others.

Being in Europe, you may have access to more of the Tecomec branded wheels, from Italy, or another country.

If you do, please let me know! I really want to try one of the 'White' wheels!

Thanks.

Philbert
 
I use such shields, although I don't think they produce them anymore. Earlier, I used Chinese too, they were ok, but now they lie on the poles.There is no paper in the Chinese dial and the hole was too large so I made persian from a can of cola and cut out the paper pads
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20210126_222858.jpg
    IMG_20210126_222858.jpg
    1.7 MB
  • IMG_20210126_222916.jpg
    IMG_20210126_222916.jpg
    2 MB
@husq365torqx - I should note that these wheels are not all available in the US either. I did not notice a big difference between the 'Pink' and 'Green' wheels, which I was able to try. I was told that I would have to buy a box of 20 (as I recall) for the importer to get the others.

Being in Europe, you may have access to more of the Tecomec branded wheels, from Italy, or another country.

If you do, please let me know! I really want to try one of the 'White' wheels!

Thanks.

Philbert

Yes we do. There's tacomec in all three colors variants I saw somewhere , cheaper even than oregon but only come in 145 mm diameter. Think I saw some webstore also listing the green from Oregon to be used for rakers. I guess the ultimate setup would be just having all three and then switching depending on the dullness and damage of the teeth. Maybe even just pink and white would be best setup based on your pic.

Saw some other greyish looking one too that was advertised as to be used on Stihl duro chains, I guess those are just reinforced chains though not Widia.
207683.jpg

Try maybe looking for that one Piotr , if we have it over here maybe it's available in Poland too.
 
Back
Top