Gypo,,, and everyone else

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Typhoon

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Sep 23, 2003
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Gypo I am kinda directing this question towards you, because you seem to have 10,000 saws. But anyone else who knows about this feel free to answer too please.
I cut and sell firewood. And my primary saw that I use is a Husky 350. I love this saw. But I keep hearing people say that I should have got a 346XP. I paid 300.00 for my 350. Should I get a 346XP? Is there a lot of difference? Or will the difference be too small to notice?
Thanks!
-Brad
 
My opinion is that the 346 XP is extremely highly OVER-RATED. I've used 2 and neither oiled the bar worth a sh*t. Probably this is the reason Gypo likes the 13 inch bar instead of a 16. Just my experience and 2 cents on the 346XP. If your'e happy with the way the 350 cuts, then don't waste the money.
 
I happen to really like my 346xp. I couldn't really ask for a better running saw in that size class.
 
My 346xp is a great saw, and ive had no problems whatsoever. Since you already have a 350, keep it and you cant go wrong.

Rob
 
If the 353 would have available when I bought my 350 I would have gotten it, but it wasn't. I really like my 350 though......after I opened the muffler. Do this if you haven't already.
 
If you do a search on muffler modifications you will see some pics of 350 mufflers along with a lot of others. Several ways to do it.

I didn't have the best tools at hand for this so I improvised somewhat. I used a chisle to pry/cut the deflector shield off. Then I used a jigsaw and made the exit port of the muffler slightly larger than the exit from the cylinder. You don't want to make it to big. The experts say 1.25x's the size of the exit port. I used an old muffler from a dead homelite to retrofit a new deflector shield and had someone at work braze it on for me. When I put the muffler back on, I cut some screen and fit it between the saw and muffler. I didn't do that first but after I made some cuts there were chips in there and you don't want them in the saw. You may need to adjust your carb when done though. I didn't have to though. Before I opened it the saw would want to bog in a full bar cut and after opening it hardly ever slows down. I love limbing with this saw.

Hope this helps but I can't stress the search enough. This was my only mod. and a lot these guys have done a lot more.
 
Sorry about posting so late today, you guys must have been worried about me, actually I was out in the woods seeing if I could successfully cut down a 32" DBH Maple in the pitch dark- not a problem expect that I didn't have a floppy in my camera. It was cool to see all the sparks off the chain and me getting hit with all those widow makers and stuff, however, it was worth it, the butt log looks like a peeler.
Anyway Typhoon, I only have about 12 saws, most of them scattered from here to Hell's Half Acre. The 350 is a good saw like any other if you incorporate everything that has been discussed here. From 82- 91 I blocked and split over 5000 cords using 066's with a 16" bar. If I had known what I know now about saw mods I may have gotten home a bit earlier and gone thru fewer saws.
So I thank everyone who has helped me along the way. With every saw you buy you will take increasingly better care of and your general enthusiasm will put money in your pocket so make a 357 your next saw if you like.
John
 
I believe the 350/2150 is as good or better than any semi-pro 50cc saw on the market. It is a good performer, reliable, and specially it is one of the easiest to work on. ( Those who have been into the saw or have seen the service tape will know this last point)
 

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