hacks for starting saws--getting older!

[daverey]

Hi I have a Stihl.056 which gets stored dry or with just 2 stroke oil. So starting is always difficult, my method is to remove the plug put in fresh fuel crank the pull cord with no choke or ignition untile I can smell petrol and the piston runs free. Put the plug back ignition and choke on. Pull start with good core control with saw on the floor. My saw starts usually on the first pull. On cold days heat the plug with a portable blow torch. Starting energy should be 50%core 50% shoulder. Practice by kayaking. I am 70 still out starting those younger .

 

[Brushwacker]

One suggestion I would have is to not buy a Stihl MS250 or an 025. I can't get either of mine to start without priming and drop starting and these are small saws!

I have an 025 and ms250 that start fine. Most often my first choice for small saw use between other stihls, Echo,,Efco saws I keep on hand. Most I have used and had here started as well as O26,s ms260,s,034,s,etc.. The 025 is a little stiff from compression, but normally 3 to 5 pulls cold it hits on choke them starts and runs 1 or occasionally 2 at part throttle position.
This 250 feels lower on compression, pulls over smoother then any I remember, starts about the same pulls, runs fine a. I had 1 or 2 Ms 250,s here in the past that were stiff with compression that started a bit difficult but started without extra prime. An occasional backfire was the biggest annoyance. I wonder if advanced timing could be their issue. Maybe something to do with quality control with the flywheels some got out off a bit? That said I had probably started over a dozen of each in 0 and MS series with only a small fraction of MS 250,s being annoyingly stubborn starters.

 

[sundance]

I have an 025 and ms250 that start fine. Most often my first choice for small saw use between other stihls, Echo,,Efco saws I keep on hand. Most I have used and had here started as well as O26,s ms260,s,034,s,etc.. The 025 is a little stiff from compression, but normally 3 to 5 pulls cold it hits on choke them starts and runs 1 or occasionally 2 at part throttle position.
This 250 feels lower on compression, pulls over smoother then any I remember, starts about the same pulls, runs fine a. I had 1 or 2 Ms 250,s here in the past that were stiff with compression that started a bit difficult but started without extra prime. An occasional backfire was the biggest annoyance. I wonder if advanced timing could be their issue. Maybe something to do with quality control with the flywheels some got out off a bit? That said I had probably started over a dozen of each in 0 and MS series with only a small fraction of MS 250,s being annoyingly stubborn starters.

You should meet my Ms 250. Annoyingly stubborn starter fails to address it.

 

[muddy42]

Alkalyte fuel - starts so much easier.

 

[Fellah]

this is something I've thought of before but never had the need to try it out yet. Installing a small ball valve in the cylinder in the decomp hole or making your own hole would give you full control over your compression. So if you turn it to fully open and have the choke closed you could pull it a couple times to prime the system with no effort and then close it to start. I did something similar once on high compression project saw where I would pull the plug and pull it over 5 times than put the plug in and it would start on the first pull.

There might even be a sweet spot on the ball valve where it will start at say 5% to 10% making that one or two starting pulls also easier.

Excellent idea. I do have a decomp on one of my saws--doesn't help with the starting but this could be a good hack. Thanks

 

[Fellah]

Alkalyte fuel - starts so much easier.

Yeah. One mechanic said 80% of saw issues is gas. So I switched from canned Fuel to Stihl and it does help.

 

[Fellah]

Many years ago when I was pulling wrenches,we sold big saw to a little bitty hunched over 70 plus year old man, a Stihl 066 or possibly 660 ? been over 20 years so Im not sure,I do remember no compression release, he couldnt start saw but really wanted it,boss let him take home to try,the little ol guy built a wooden frame that went through both handles and he could stand on frame then pull rope with both hands,he was so thrilled to be able to start his saw, he was still starting and using that saw 3 or 4 years later when I left that shop.
Maybe you can figure something like that out, for me my left shoulder is shot,so to start big saws I use my left knee on handlebar to hold down then pull with right hand,just couple ideas that may or may not help.
Few days ago my old boss and I was talking about that older gentleman and his saw,old boss said the gentleman was still using that saw well into his 80s .

Really? He must of been bucking stuff around his house where his wooden frame is. I'll hold that out for when I'm really lame and only sawing nearby but I like the innovation.

 

[Fellah]

If you are hurting with shoulder or arm problems. I am right handed. My left shoulder was hurting bad. My trade is carpenter I was thinking one day I use my right arm to bang nails all day with no pain at all. My thoughts swing left handed. I drove a few awkward nails at first my wrist from the impact would hurt. Went away very fast. I drove more nails left handed. Not pretty just do it. I had back aches I would jump out the tail gates or go on a 4 mile run. To any pain ask. Do you drink any water?

Hi I have a Stihl.056 which gets stored dry or with just 2 stroke oil. So starting is always difficult, my method is to remove the plug put in fresh fuel crank the pull cord with no choke or ignition untile I can smell petrol and the piston runs free. Put the plug back ignition and choke on. Pull start with good core control with saw on the floor. My saw starts usually on the first pull. On cold days heat the plug with a portable blow torch. Starting energy should be 50%core 50% shoulder. Practice by kayaking. I am 70 still out starting those younger .

I'm a kayaker too--probably does help. Appreciate the specifics here. Will add to my arsenal of hacks.

 

[Fellah]

How do you start your saws? Maybe you can work on your technique. I rebuild a 024 for my neighbour once. Old, small guy, 75+. He just couldn't get it started. Showed him how he could not only use his arm to pull, but turn his whole upper body while pulling so he gets more momentum.

Will look at body position. I'm small so that doesn't give me much length. I think that's a big part of not getting the initial speed on the crank.

 

[Fellah]

I set the chain brake, grab the cord handle with my left, and with my right I push the saw down hard and simultaneously pull up hard with my left. It even worked on the 880 I used to have. I've never had much strength, but I have no problem starting my 044 and 064, (no comp release) when I do it that way. Timing, and using the weight of the saw to help start it. I struggle to see the danger in this if I set the chain brake first.

Is your saw on the ground or you holding onto it when you you're doing this?

 

[muddy42]

Yeah. One mechanic said 80% of saw issues is gas. So I switched from canned Fuel to Stihl and it does help.

Indeed issues with storage over time - gas going bad, leaving deposits in the carburettor, ethanol attracting water (there are plenty of threads about this).

But recently I have tried fresh mixed gas versus aspen alkalyte in the same saw, two days apart - I don't know why but the difference was night and day.

 

[JPCalifornia]

I've been sawing for decades but age is taking it's toll on my ability to start saws. Argh! I lift weights in the gym but now am struggling to pull hard and fast enough on my Stihl 290 and 261. Really sucks.

The hacks I'm considering are manually priming the saw, putting in an Ergo or Elastostart rope, and bumping down to saw that has a primer bulb. I cut some 2 foot stuff so need a bigger saw for felling and bucking. Anyone already go through this? Ideas for us aging sawyers

I've been sawing for decades but age is taking it's toll on my ability to start saws. Argh! I lift weights in the gym but now am struggling to pull hard and fast enough on my Stihl 290 and 261. Really sucks.

The hacks I'm considering are manually priming the saw, putting in an Ergo or Elastostart rope, and bumping down to saw that has a primer bulb. I cut some 2 foot stuff so need a bigger saw for felling and bucking. Anyone already go through this? Ideas for us aging sawyers?

Consider a batter powered chainsaw, flipping a switch doesn’t appear to be too strenuous.

 

[teacherman]

Is your saw on the ground or you holding onto it when you you're doing this?

I'm holding it in my right hand at about waist level.

 

[Plowmaster]

Hi I have a Stihl.056 which gets stored dry or with just 2 stroke oil. So starting is always difficult, my method is to remove the plug put in fresh fuel crank the pull cord with no choke or ignition untile I can smell petrol and the piston runs free. Put the plug back ignition and choke on. Pull start with good core control with saw on the floor. My saw starts usually on the first pull. On cold days heat the plug with a portable blow torch. Starting energy should be 50%core 50% shoulder. Practice by kayaking. I am 70 still out starting those younger .

Hi I have a Stihl.056 which gets stored dry or with just 2 stroke oil. So starting is always difficult, my method is to remove the plug put in fresh fuel crank the pull cord with no choke or ignition untile I can smell petrol and the piston runs free. Put the plug back ignition and choke on. Pull start with good core control with saw on the floor. My saw starts usually on the first pull. On cold days heat the plug with a portable blow torch. Starting energy should be 50%core 50% shoulder. Practice by kayaking. I am 70 still out starting those younger .

I've been sawing for decades but age is taking it's toll on my ability to start saws. Argh! I lift weights in the gym but now am struggling to pull hard and fast enough on my Stihl 290 and 261. Really sucks.

The hacks I'm considering are manually priming the saw, putting in an Ergo or Elastostart rope, and bumping down to saw that has a primer bulb. I cut some 2 foot stuff so need a bigger saw for felling and bucking. Anyone already go through this? Ideas for us aging sawyers?

Look up farm show Kickstart your chainsaw. Looks like it takes about 5$ worth of lumber ... very nice set up

 

[livemusic]

Look up farm show Kickstart your chainsaw. Looks like it takes about 5$ worth of lumber ... very nice set up

I wonder if this is the elderly gent described by someone early in this thread who made a wooden jig to start his saw...

https://www.farmshow.com/a_article.php?aid=26897

 

[Geo019t]

Bion, I had given thought to a "lever-start jig" a while back. Simply hinge a six-foot long tee fence post on a vertically held piece of 4"x4" a couple of feet long. On the "working end", a hook attache-able to saw's starter handle. The challenge was/is holding the saw down, immovable, and my best choice being a rope-ratchet hook on a piece of 2"x10" lumber, also a couple of feet in length. The working of this Rube Goldberg device is to drive truck tire over one end of the 2"x10" to hold it down; affix saw; place upright 4"x4"; and then (drum roll here) simply press down on out end of the fence post. IMPORTANT is to make sure the length of motion at saw end is not out of max-pull-length specs. And -- by golly -- it works... Three, four,...six actions to get the saw to burp; flip (Stihl) lever up a notch -- and it generally starts after no more than a couple more down-pushes. NO wear on arm, shoulder, etc... Bion, to NOT have the saw move-about -- positioning it & tightening rope ratchet -- necessitates a couple of slow, deliberate down-pushes initially, which actually primes the saw and helps in the starting process.
geo

 

[stihltech]

The hardest thing we have to do with an older or weak armed customer is tell them they can no longer pull the saw over quick enough to start it.
A decompression valve will help for some, but not all. You still have to pull quick enough for spark.
This is where the easy start saws work well (as I am dodging tomatoes). Or a battery saw (many more tomatoes. Hey! No rocks!)
Those of us able do not get this. Someday you may.
Taking a saw away from some of these people is like killing their spirit. No fun at all.

 

[Okie]

Brandon says go electric.

When not in use connect the chainsaw to a solar panel or a windmill or both.
Might even consider mounting a solar panel on the saw to keep it charged while in use.

I've got several chainsaws that use fossil fuel.
Only one I've considered converting to electric when pull the rope is a MS250 Stihl.

 

[teacherman]

Bion, I had given thought to a "lever-start jig" a while back. Simply hinge a six-foot long tee fence post on a vertically held piece of 4"x4" a couple of feet long. On the "working end", a hook attache-able to saw's starter handle. The challenge was/is holding the saw down, immovable, and my best choice being a rope-ratchet hook on a piece of 2"x10" lumber, also a couple of feet in length. The working of this Rube Goldberg device is to drive truck tire over one end of the 2"x10" to hold it down; affix saw; place upright 4"x4"; and then (drum roll here) simply press down on out end of the fence post. IMPORTANT is to make sure the length of motion at saw end is not out of max-pull-length specs. And -- by golly -- it works... Three, four,...six actions to get the saw to burp; flip (Stihl) lever up a notch -- and it generally starts after no more than a couple more down-pushes. NO wear on arm, shoulder, etc... Bion, to NOT have the saw move-about -- positioning it & tightening rope ratchet -- necessitates a couple of slow, deliberate down-pushes initially, which actually primes the saw and helps in the starting process.
geo

That device in action would be a riot to watch. Have you done it yet? If so, having a friend take a video of it would make you a star on the MacGyver/Goldberg circuit. Way more functional than the very entertaining "Joseph's Machines" guy I see on Fecabook.

 

[muddy42]

The hardest thing we have to do with an older or weak armed customer is tell them they can no longer pull the saw over quick enough to start it.
A decompression valve will help for some, but not all. You still have to pull quick enough for spark.
This is where the easy start saws work well (as I am dodging tomatoes). Or a battery saw (many more tomatoes. Hey! No rocks!)
Those of us able do not get this. Someday you may.
Taking a saw away from some of these people is like killing their spirit. No fun at all.

Hopefully you don't actually take the saw away, but tell them to give the saw to their grandkids!