Hand saw for climbing

[TreeTopKid]

Every time this topic comes up, I recommend the Fiskars handsaw that you can buy at Walmart. So far as I know, nobody here at AS has ever tried it out. I would put it up against any saw made.


Funnily enough I bought this short handled pair of Fiskars loppers because I thought they were a good size to attach to a saddle. They have a have a small cog on the blade, and I can honestly say hand on heart that they are the best loppers I've ever had.

I've even used them for cutting roots and they have still kept there edge, and for $18.00 it wouldn't matter if they hadn't.

 

[Raymond]

good saw but the handle will catch your rope and whatever else it can get ahold of.

the sugio was my last handsaw. it "fell" off the truck never to be seen again.

so to replace it i went with the ibuki. i am liking that handsaw.

both big handsaws for sure.

i'd get the ibuki again before the sugio.

The ibuki, is that that long one with the yellow sheaf? Man I want to get that one soon. I too have been using the sugio for a few years now. It's time for the upgrade.

 

[046]

hmmm.. may have to check it out .. next trip to wallyworld

Every time this topic comes up, I recommend the Fiskars handsaw that you can buy at Walmart. So far as I know, nobody here at AS has ever tried it out. I would put it up against any saw made.

Here is another thread on that topic. This will save a lot of people time in re-posting the same opinions. My post is #27

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=84233&highlight=fiskars

 

[Raymond]

hmmm.. may have to check it out .. next trip to wallyworld

Yeah but them are so 1980's LOL.
Now this is what I'm talkin' about.

Not only is it important to work good but man ya gotta also look cool. :hmm3grin2orange:
The tricker ya look just reassures the customer on why they hired ya.

 

[046]

already use a Silky Gomtaro... what intrigues me about the fiskar saw is claims, it can be sharpen with a round file.

 

[TimberMcPherson]

I have been using Gomtaros for 8 years, I have tried the ibuki and masuru and a few others but keep going back to the Gomtaro.

 

[M.Green - SVTS]

All handsaws I have seen are "pull saws" meaning they are designed to cut on the pull stroke only...

The sugoi that is pictured a few posts back is double bladed for a pull and forward thrust. The one that I have from HD looks similar too it as far as the blade goes. I can't tell how or if the sugoi with the yellow black casing is flimsy at all or the width of the steel it's made from.

 

[pdqdl]

Just out of curiosity with your saw that you displayed. It doesn't have a double edge meaning it can't cut with a forward thrust only a back.

I know it doesn't take all that long to cut a 3" branch with your handsaw but wouldn't you rather have a "double" edge so when you thrust forward you cut also?

I am not criticizing I am really asking the question. I use a double edge plastic handle handsaw I bought at HD and it works great. I've even gone as far as letting the groundman use it when he can't get odd limbs through the chipper. I am not big on letting other people use my chain saws. Plus I spent like 13.99$ on the handsaw so it wouldn't bother me if it broke but it's been a while and it's going strong.

Yes. It cuts only on the pull, but it excels at clearing chips.

The push stroke clears the cut and the saw of any chips. Saws that cut on the push stroke tend to bind in the cut and bend the blade. Most trimmers don't like being gentle in the cut to baby their saw and prevent bending it.

Bi-directional saws have a much greater tendency to gum up with sawdust in green wood or pine pitch, since both directions fill the teeth with more wood..

This particular saw has an offset on each tooth, so the kerf is wider than the saw. It feeds nicely back through the cut for the next stroke.


Raymond! Regarding looking cool:

I'm such a handsome athletic fellow, I doubt if they are looking at my handsaw when they review my equipment.
:biggrinbounce2:

 

[pdqdl]

already use a Silky Gomtaro... what intrigues me about the fiskar saw is claims, it can be sharpen with a round file.

Faster and easier than your 200t, using the same 5/32" file, almost the same technique as regular chain sharpening.

Look at the closeup picture posted above.

 

[treemandan]

Every time this topic comes up, I recommend the Fiskars handsaw that you can buy at Walmart. So far as I know, nobody here at AS has ever tried it out. I would put it up against any saw made.

Here is another thread on that topic. This will save a lot of people time in re-posting the same opinions. My post is #27

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=84233&highlight=fiskars

shop at walmart and DIE !

 

[treemandan]

I used a handsaw in the tree yesterday, glad I wear knee-pads. It seems every angle you cut pulls the blade into you? So I said screw it, I like a sharp pole saw and keep the handsaw for... well, I will be dammed if I know what I keep that thing around for? maybe just to say I got one but she is old.

 

[silk]

I use the Fanno - FI-1700 and keep it with me at all times when in the tree. This saw has held up very well to every day use. One solid pull is all that is often needed. The only thing is that I need to take care not to leave it wet after the day is done or I will have a rusty saw the next morning.

I especially love the jobs where you are doing a pruning vs removal and can work in the tree without the noise or extra weight of a saw.

 

[Ghillie]

Granted, the Fiskars do seem a bit cheap, and they are not the lightest saw you can buy, either. They are probably a bit larger than folks like too. I can cut a 2"-3" branch with it faster than you can unsnap, use, and re-hang your chainsaw. Mine are about 5 years old, and cut as well as the day I bought them, mostly because they are so easy to sharpen.

But no other saw allows you to quickly sharpen it on the job; certainly not with the same round file you use on your trim saw. The tiny little triangular teeth found on most pruning saws will always gum up in pitchy wood; not so with the Fiskars.

All the guys I have let use my saw have liked it,

Here are some pics:

A closeup of the teeth. They are probably the only special thing about this saw.

Just bought one. I'm going to try it out on a pine removal tomorrow morning. I've never used a handsaw in tree before.

 

[pdqdl]

You will be desperately wishing for a scabbard for that. Without a scabbard, that bugger will be eating your legs up if you hang it from your belt. If not attached to your belt, you lose too much time hanging on to it.

I have a Buckingham scabbard that fits it nicely. The number stamped on it is 6222 C

Try it out on trimming. If you like it, get a good scabbard.


By the way: Where did you get it, and how much do they cost now?

 

[ATH]

The sugoi that is pictured a few posts back is double bladed for a pull and forward thrust. The one that I have from HD looks similar too it as far as the blade goes. I can't tell how or if the sugoi with the yellow black casing is flimsy at all or the width of the steel it's made from.

From Silky Saws site:
"SILKY saws cut as you pull the blade towards you. They do not cut on the forward or push stroke. Cutting on the pull stroke requires less energy and gives you more control over the action of the saw."

 

[ATH]

You will be desperately wishing for a scabbard for that. Without a scabbard, that bugger will be eating your legs up if you hang it from your belt......

$15 or $20 for the saw and another $20 for the scabbard? A $50 Silky suddenly sounds even better to me...

So, am I correct that we still don't have an opinion from somebody who has used (on the job) both a Silky and a Friskars? If this thread keeps up I just may go buy one for the fun of it! Ability to sharpen it would be nice...but the reality is I stink at sharpening anyhow!

 

[pdqdl]

I just thought of something I should share, for you guys that don't use pruning saws. Get a nice, aggressive hand saw, and keep it in your trunk, behind the seat of your truck, wherever.

You will be surprised how often you need to cut one branch, prune a spot that you overlooked, demonstrate something to a customer...and there you are with no chainsaw.

Whip out your trusty hand saw and finish the job quickly. The gas never goes stale, and they never make a smelly mess in your vehicle. Unlike the best chainsaw made, they are always ready to go to work. Unless you let them rust up into uselessness.

 

[tree md]

Man, I just couldn't imagine not carrying my handsaw in the tree. Actually I can, I have left it at the house and had to work without it. It saves so much energy and time . When you are trying to bypass small limbs you can just zip them off and go on up without having to unclip your lanyard on removals and eliminate having to take a chainsaw in the tree on small prunes. Anyone who has spent time trying to break a small limb out of the tree or eaten one while bypassing it will appreciate a handsaw. Quicker and easier than wearing the 200 all the way up.

 

[Ghillie]

You will be desperately wishing for a scabbard for that. Without a scabbard, that bugger will be eating your legs up if you hang it from your belt. If not attached to your belt, you lose too much time hanging on to it.

I have a Buckingham scabbard that fits it nicely. The number stamped on it is 6222 C

Try it out on trimming. If you like it, get a good scabbard.


By the way: Where did you get it, and how much do they cost now?

Thanks for the scabbard number.

I got it a Menards (kinda like Lowe's) for $17.

 

[Raymond]

Oh I'd be lost without mine. Every time I move to another location, I clear out a spot with it before I get in. Works good for reaching for a rope too sometimes.

I've grinded the end blade round so I don't damage the ropes. With a little bit more of a hook. Works good for small hangers too but you guys knew that.