Im trying to remove the poly chain sprocket from the cutter wheel so I can salvage the wheel and shaft but having problems. The set screws on the sprocket are not coimg out. I PB blasted them and torched them too. I got one to loosen up but te othe one is not budging. Help!
having problems removing cutter wheel
- Thread starter NCTREE
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2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
on a stump grinder?
Its on a carlton stump grinder. It's a 5/16 hex head screw, I've been cutting allen keys up and fitting them into a socket. the allen isnt strong enough keeps bending the metal. I will try to get some pics.
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
Heres what I would do. I take a metal punch and hammer and bang on the set screw. Hit it pretty good but dont mess up the allen key. Spray some more pb blaster or I like to use Kroil oil on some stuff. Let it sit a little and try to turn it again. If that dont work, heat up chain sprocket around the set screw and then try banging on it again with a hammer and punch. Sometimes banging on the sprocket lightly may help brake it free too. If that dont work, you can always drill it out and re tap. Just put the drill on low speed and use plenty of oil. I am not sure where you are located at, but if your close to lancaster, and cant get it I can stop down and help if you want.
OLD MAN GRINDER
ArboristSite Operative
Have u tried an allen head socket, i have a set 4 just such problems..
Bob..
Bob..
juststumps
ArboristSite Guru
left hand drill
See if you can find a left hand set of drill bits . Soak the hole really good . Pick a bit the same size as the Allen wrench . Then run the drill in reverse slowly , and if your lucky , the screw will back itself out . Most big industrial places have them , Graingers , Mcmaster Carr , or a Snapon , Matco , Mac tool truck should have a set. Worse case , do like an earlier poster said . drill out bigger , re tap .
See if you can find a left hand set of drill bits . Soak the hole really good . Pick a bit the same size as the Allen wrench . Then run the drill in reverse slowly , and if your lucky , the screw will back itself out . Most big industrial places have them , Graingers , Mcmaster Carr , or a Snapon , Matco , Mac tool truck should have a set. Worse case , do like an earlier poster said . drill out bigger , re tap .
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
I wouldn't drill the hole out bigger. I do this all the time it seems like. I have the left handed snap on bits but they only work once in a while. I would drill the hole slightly smaller and then pry off the sprocket and then retap the stop screw. Basically you are using the tap to just cleanout the old set screw out of the threads.
I ended up getting it to back out I had to heat it with a torch for a good long while. It still was ruff but its done. Now if I can get the sprocket off the shaft I should be good. This is my first stump grinder rebuild so im taking it slow.
Thanks for the offer 2tree im about 45 mins from lancaster so not to far away. Where abouts in lancaster do you work? The closest i've lived to lancaster was denver that where I started my tree business actually. Lot of lowballing bad tree care out that way thats one of the reasons i moved. I #### you not! one time I was going to a job and I passed a hack who just topped this beautiful 25-30yr old red oak in the front yard and was in the process of grinding all the root flares at the base of the tree.:jawdrop: I guess the HO didn't like mowing over the root flares
and that was the best solution the tree hack could come up with. I almost pulled over and ask if they ever heard of mulch. Do you see that sort of stuff out your way?
Thanks for the offer 2tree im about 45 mins from lancaster so not to far away. Where abouts in lancaster do you work? The closest i've lived to lancaster was denver that where I started my tree business actually. Lot of lowballing bad tree care out that way thats one of the reasons i moved. I #### you not! one time I was going to a job and I passed a hack who just topped this beautiful 25-30yr old red oak in the front yard and was in the process of grinding all the root flares at the base of the tree.:jawdrop: I guess the HO didn't like mowing over the root flares
and that was the best solution the tree hack could come up with. I almost pulled over and ask if they ever heard of mulch. Do you see that sort of stuff out your way?
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
I pretty much work all of Lancaster County. I have done trees up near Green Dragon, in lititz, and elizabethtown. I even dropped a tree (no cleanup) for a guy in King of Prusia one day on my way to American Arborist. Lots of hacks for sure. Ho dont seem to really care either. During that snow storm in October, I spent 2 weeks working in a pretty high end development in Centerville. There was 14 different tree companys in the area the one day. I watched lots of spike prunings going on and also some pretty funny crap. I watched a guy spike up a 6" maple and i guess got scared and didnt climb to where the top broke off and was hung up. He was only like 30' off the ground but that company doesnt have a bucket truck. He cut the broke top off and it hung up in lower branches. He pulled it off and let it go and I watched it bounce off the guys mailbox. He got lucky and it didnt smash it. There is alot of tree guys around here that top alot of trees, and customers ask to have it done alot. I had a guy that wanted me to cut back his magnolia trees that were about 30' tall to 8' off the ground. I tried to explain to him that it wasnt good for the trees and he should just remove them. He was insistant on topping them. I told him that I dont do work like that.
chips-a-flying
ArboristSite Lurker
cut the bearings
one of the best ways to save the shaft is to use a cutoff wheel in a grinder and split the bearings in half. Just be careful when you get close to the shaft. Once you split the bearings in half, it is just a matter of cleaning the shaft up, new beaings and your ready to put it all bake together. Make sure you drill some dimples thru the setscrew holes and use ant-seize compound. Good luck.
one of the best ways to save the shaft is to use a cutoff wheel in a grinder and split the bearings in half. Just be careful when you get close to the shaft. Once you split the bearings in half, it is just a matter of cleaning the shaft up, new beaings and your ready to put it all bake together. Make sure you drill some dimples thru the setscrew holes and use ant-seize compound. Good luck.
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
in this case that wouldnt work because the set screw was in the belt sprocket.
Im gonna attempt to remove the sprocket today. Im gonna go to harbor freight and get some pulley pullers. I hope I can salvage the shaft. Im wondering if the cutter wheel could be resurfaced to get out all the minor impressions from the pockets. Its not bad but was thinking of putting greenteeth on and didnt know if this would be a problem.
chips-a-flying
ArboristSite Lurker
I split the bearings on my 1625, I also used a air hammer and ran it around the bushing to loosen it up. There are 3 bolt holes that you screw in that popped mine off.
luck on that repair...it is not much fun
luck on that repair...it is not much fun
2treeornot2tree
Dont cry, just do it
Ace hardware sells some pulley pullers that are a little better then the ones at harbor frieght. I got one from harbor frieght, but had to modify it to work for me.
ibadvanced
ArboristSite Lurker
I had a SP 8018 Carlton with the same problem. Good luck with the pully puller. I had to take mine to a welding shop and have them torch it off, took them forever, it was made from some sort of cast iron. Torched it down two sides all the way to the shaft before it would even think of coming off. Good luck.:bang:
ArborquipSP
ArboristSite Operative
You will have to cut the pulley off. Carlton can get the original sprockets for your machine. The only reason i mention that is the location of the key grove for your old pulley in your shaft is more towards the end of the shaft. For the new two piece pulley the key grove is about 2-3" inset from the end of the shaft. You can have a machine shop extend the grove for you them you can get the aftermarket pulleys almost anywhere or go with the originals and get them from Carlton.
If it was mine I would get the shaft machined and buy the two piece pulleys because they are easier to disassemble when you need to next time.
Scott
If it was mine I would get the shaft machined and buy the two piece pulleys because they are easier to disassemble when you need to next time.
Scott
Pullers work if they are hardened steel dont buy china crap maybe a Craftsman .a puller should pull it of and drag the stupid little set screws off too like they aint even there .Use a 1/2 air gun on the puller!
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