Heated Handles???

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Hi Rick, no, some of them just get hotter and hotter and hotter till they become molten as did my 356XP Gee.
Hi Steve, John here, did my bar ship yet?
John
 
Hi Steve, John here, tip will ship tomorrow, just pkged it now.
The comedy of errors tonight is to exhausting to describe, maybe you could tell the story better than I.
John
 
Hip

Hey dBabcock,
This is one of the reasons I have a bad hip. Packing that saw on the right side for 30 years. You stay pretty fit but its hard on the joints. And what the hell are heated handle bars anyway! Dennis
 
Hey, Dennis...
Steve here.. nice pic, what kind saw are you swinging.
Hey John,
I have your saw bar all packed up.. It will go out today Global Priority. You should have it Monday. The bar is slotted to fit a large mount Stihl. Make sure the oil hole lines up whaen you make a chain. The tail on this bar is big enough to run a 10 pin sprocket.
Oh and buy a saw for Susie!!! Maybe that will keep her off Ebay.
 
Lunch,
That's an 066 with a 36" cannon bar, carlton full comp 3/8's chain, seven tooth sprocket, and a hole shot filter. No heated handle bars, we're sunshine loggers in Ca. Dennis
 
Dennis, whats the longest bar commonly used on an 066 out your way? whats the longest they can PRACTICALY run?
 
Ryan- I don't mean to be a buttinski but a stock 066 will turn a 42" bar well. A modified 066 will turn a 50", though you have to sweep your cut on long cuts to keep the saw chips cleared out. In fire season I run a 42" on my mod. 066.
 
Ryan,
A 36" bar is common, but with the size of timber getting smaller each year I cut most of the time with a 32" bar. Plus, I'm shorter than most and when limbing I can use a 32" bar without it hurting my back as much as a taller guy. On steep ground the use of a long bar helps to reach your far side in the undercut. Because you usually fall your timber side hill on steep ground, your cut on the low side sometimes can't be reached. Also, when you buck a big cut off, you have to reach way over to get your bottom corner cut, or your cut will not drop off, or you will get hung-up in the cut. I very seldom use a 42" anymore, and if I do I run it on a 084. Mostly its just to heavy to pack around all day. The 066 with a 36" bar will do anything you want to do now a days usually. JJ know problem on the buttinski I like to hear what other people use. Dennis
 
Dennis- I'm sure you run into the big problem too- that the only big timber left is on steep ground. We're cutting a unit right now near Grants Pass, Or., and there's some good timber in the bottom of the unit- problem is it's 75% slope. argh!
 
I run 24''s mostly around here. How are ya'll setting chokers on those big things when they are flat on the ground? On the stuff around here I take about a three inch diameter log and lay it perpendicular to the direction of fall so that I have room to get a choker under but with that size stuff would just smash the log in the ground.
 
Ryan,
Make yourself a choker shovel. It's made of a 4'x 1/2" metal rod with a small shovel head about 6"long and about 4" wide, bend this part in the shape of a U long ways and braze it on the rod. Bend a handle on the top of the rod and there you go. Oh, bend the rod in an arc and it will follow the arc of the log as you push it under the log and come out the other side. Thats how we used to do it on big logs that were flat on the ground Dennis
 
The handles on my 372xpg reach a certain temp and mantain it nicely, at least so far anyway.
 

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