I bought an 026 at a farm sale. I knew the family and it is in nice shape. Saw sat for many a year. I was hoping to clean the tank and fire it off. It fires, momentarily. Blows raw gas out exhaust. I rebuild the carb with little improvement. What next? I have searched the threads and have no great ideas. I own an independent auto shop and am good with 4 strokes, learning the 2s.
Help 026 to much fuel
- Thread starter ASETECH
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
You might try...
1) adjusting the carb.
2) Air filter clean?
3) go back thru the carb. If the needle sticks then it could cause this.
4) crank case could also be flooded with fuel.
-pat
1) adjusting the carb.
2) Air filter clean?
3) go back thru the carb. If the needle sticks then it could cause this.
4) crank case could also be flooded with fuel.
-pat
daemon2525
ArboristSite Operative
Make sure that you are no more than 1 turn out on the carb settings.
no longer collecting
ArboristSite Operative
carb setting
If it runs ok on idle and dies on acceleration it could be 3 reasons. First: your H side is too rich and is flooding the engine base. Try screwing in 1/4 turn OR MORE on the H side and when you find the right spot at WOT she will run without hesitation then back out a bit to richen the mixture.....second: If you did rebuilt the carb make sure the diaphragm pump is adjusted to the proper hight.....third: if the saw was not used for a long time there could be a worn seal causing a low pressure inside the base and again flooding the engine.
Personally i think that if she runs ok at idle...it is only a carb adjustment. These saws are very sensitive and doesn't take much to get them out of tune................Good luck.
If it runs ok on idle and dies on acceleration it could be 3 reasons. First: your H side is too rich and is flooding the engine base. Try screwing in 1/4 turn OR MORE on the H side and when you find the right spot at WOT she will run without hesitation then back out a bit to richen the mixture.....second: If you did rebuilt the carb make sure the diaphragm pump is adjusted to the proper hight.....third: if the saw was not used for a long time there could be a worn seal causing a low pressure inside the base and again flooding the engine.
Personally i think that if she runs ok at idle...it is only a carb adjustment. These saws are very sensitive and doesn't take much to get them out of tune................Good luck.
doc874
Addicted to ArboristSite
026
Possibly rings worn and or piston top edge just above the first ring which causes the gas to blow past the piston and rings. I just got an o28 with the same sort of problem it was blowing gas out the carb and soaking the filter. The piston and rings look good but advice here on AR said its still possible so i put in a new piston and rings. Good luck.
Doc
Possibly rings worn and or piston top edge just above the first ring which causes the gas to blow past the piston and rings. I just got an o28 with the same sort of problem it was blowing gas out the carb and soaking the filter. The piston and rings look good but advice here on AR said its still possible so i put in a new piston and rings. Good luck.
Doc
sugarbush
ArboristSite Guru
ASETECH said:
pressure check it, sound's like an air leak.
explanation on why i think you have a air leak. sound's like your getting plenty of fuel if it's pushing it out of the exhaust, if there was enough case pressure it would push it to the top of the cyl., pull your muffler and check condition of piston/ring's. if that saw sat for as long as you indicated the seal's will be suspect.
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no longer collecting
ArboristSite Operative
I would then turn in the H and L side adjustment to 1/2 turn.....try this and if it still fails, take appart the card, check for a sticky needle....blow compressed air to remove any foreign material that you cant see....adjust the diaphragm level, reseat the needles to 1/2 turn and if it still dont run check for crank/base air leak.
stihlatit
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Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
Make sure your gaskets are in the correct order...
Metering cover->diaphragm->gasket->carb body
Fuel pump cover ->gasket->pump diaphragm->carb body
Simply pressure test the fuel inlet to the carb - it should hold 10-15psi forever. if it doesn't, it's generally something to do with your needle etc as Arnie shows.
The diagram from Arnie isn't quite precise - the metering needle on the 026 Walbro carb is level with the BASE of the chamber - to the shoulders on each side of the arm. It should be close to the factory supplied arm's position.
Metering cover->diaphragm->gasket->carb body
Fuel pump cover ->gasket->pump diaphragm->carb body
Simply pressure test the fuel inlet to the carb - it should hold 10-15psi forever. if it doesn't, it's generally something to do with your needle etc as Arnie shows.
The diagram from Arnie isn't quite precise - the metering needle on the 026 Walbro carb is level with the BASE of the chamber - to the shoulders on each side of the arm. It should be close to the factory supplied arm's position.
It lives! Boy do I feel dumb! 2 problems. 1. I did not notice the gasket on the fuel control diaphram, I thuoght it was just the gasket. I knew when Lakeside listed the order I had a problem. 2. There was no diaghpram on the fuel inlet side of the carb. Can these get eaten away over time? I found a piece of blue plastic that matched my gasket in shape, looked at the order sequence you gave me and put it in there. Walla! She comes down to an idle and restarts with ease. I will get the carb adjusted out and see what I have. Thanks a bunch!:jester:
Lakeside53
Stihl Wrenching
hmmmm... The blue is the pump diaphram, the gasket should be black.
