Help for Novice Splitter

[wkpoor]

Most pump mfg want the tank volume to match the pump gpm. I did that with my setup and ended up draining half of it out because the oil would never warm up. Hydraulic oil ideally should be about 120 degrees operating temp. For summer time use I would at least have tank big enough to carry the same gallons as the pump gpm if you are splitting in hot temps. Most time of the yr you won't need half that. My pump is 21gpm and I'm using 10gallon in the tank. The fluid still doesn't get even warm. Just make sure you maintain a flooded suction with a partial tank volume in your design.
As for pump size vs engine power do the formula http://www.precisionfluidpower.com/fluid_power_formulas.htm
I'm for using a small cylinder so you will have good speed. Remember most wood splits under 500psi and most of that at about 200psi. I would choose a pump that has a high pressure 2nd stage for the tough ones. Most likely you will need a 12hp engine to achieve all this.

 

[boostnut]

My splitter also uses an 11gpm 2 stage pump. My tank capacity is about 8 gallons BUT I'm only using 5 gallons of fluid (ATF). I ran it yesterday for about 2.5 hours nonstop in 40 - 45 degree weather. The fluid never got warm. Unless you plan to split in the heat of the summer I would be comfortable with your fluid volume = to half of your pumps gpm rating.

 

[flewism]

My store bought 22 ton splitter also uses an 11gpm 2-stage pump and it has a 4.25 gallon tank with about 3.75 gallons on hydraulic oil in it. The homemade splitter that I bought on the cheap is similar in size with even a smaller tank I'd say about 3 gallons.

 

[abohac]

I enjoy reading your forums about all the topics. I'm a new OWB and have an International 656 Hydromatic 6 cylinder gas utility tractor with live hydraulics and a bucket. I purchased a used 3-point splitter to obviously split my wood each year. It operated a little slow but did the job last year even thought there appeared to not be enough hydraulic pressure to kick out the automatic return valve. opcorn:

Now I'm looking to upgrade it to a PTO operated hydraulic system to run off the same tractor. In other words I want a little more speed and pressure and should be able to get that out of my PTO if I convert it to a PTO system.

I have a local welder that will do some work for me at a very reasonable price.

I have a couple questions that maybe some of you can help answer:

1) What is the best hydraulic pump by make and GPH to complete the conversion being I know nothing about GPH and tank volume and size. In reading various information the larger the pump the larger the tank. You guys that have been doing this for some time should be able to make some recommendations.

2) Where is the best place to purchase a hydraulic pump, tank, filter, etc. that won't break my arms, legs, and wallet being I live in Wisconsin? Are there any websites that have this stuff available?

I built mine using a pump off a New Holland haybine that I got from a local dealer. I believe it is 28GPM and not 2 stage. Tractor just idles using 540 and I can split anything. My set-up is similiar to wkpoor. However, I just bought a TW6 this fall because of the log lift so I have not used it in awhile.

 

[crashagn]

Or you could just say heck with runnin all them hydrolic lines and such and go this route

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bVAAx3mMKY

Now some say it may be dangurous as heck, but your tempting fate when ya get into a car.

 

[63012753]

Thanks for all the advise. I'm looking at auctions and trying to find a used one that has a motor, tank, and pump. Maybe with gas prices going up, up, and up the small engine may be the way to go and save the tractor for hauling and loading. Thanks to all.