HELP PLEASE with "new" husqvarna 359

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Jmaffei

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Hey Guys,
This is my first post, I have been reading threads for awhile. I am fairly new to chainsaws, been heating my house with an old woodburning stove and scrounging my own wood so I decided I would get me a good all around firewood saw. I bought a 359 on ebay for a great deal and it is obvious the saw has never had any fuel run through it. The muffler is a little rusty, I assume from weather, but the inside is mint and so is the rest of the saw. It is a 2005 model ( I think, the first two numbers in s/n are 05). I know it needs to get the new intake boot clip or whatever that part is, but I figured I'd start it up just to make sure it runs. I put 93 octane fuel with husqvarna oil in a perfect 1 gallon ratio. I cranked on it over 20 to 30 times easily, both with the choke on and off. At one point once it sort of sounded like it wanted to start. The decompression button has never been pushed in, I tried but it seems like it has been in already and maybe won't come out? Is it possible I flooded it, or that there is another problem associated with it sitting around for so long unused? Any suggestions you guys have will be greatly appreciated, I am not too mechanically gifted, but I will probably be taking to my step-dad who is a car mechanic and has some experience messing with chainsaws. Thanks, James

Also, I think I've read before that a chainsaw won't start if chain is not on the sprocket right? Is it that it will not start or that it won't crank over, because mine cranks quite nicely. Also, sprocket turns when I move the chain, etc.
 
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Pull the spark plug to see if it's getting fuel. It should be wet.
While you have the plug out, connect it to the wire and rest the sparky end on the metal of the engine (to ground it). Pull the cord and confirm there is spark.
 
Hey Brian,
Thanks for the advice, I had tried to pull the plug earlier and thought I must be doing something wrong because it wouldn't budge. Well, armed with my newfound internet conviction, I gave it one good heave-ho and put a nice gash in my knuckle, but it pulled. There was fuel on it, but I could not get it to spark even with different positions on the engine, I don't have to full-bore crank on it for a spark do I? Will this maybe be as simple as a new spark plug? Thanks, James
 
Try a new plug... if you still get no spark... then the ignition is shot.

You should be able to just pull it over with a decent tug to get it to spark with the plug out.

Sounds like the saw is not as "brand new" like you may think. :)

Gary
 
I understand the saw is not technically new, but it is unused, unless someone happened to replace almost the whole saw except for the muffler. I have a non-epa muffler on order anyways. Thanks, James
 
Yeah, if I can't get it to start with a new spark plug and my step-dad's help, I will definitley be sending it back, the thing is that 357 is well over a hundred dollars more and I don't really feel like I need a full pro grade saw. Thanks for the advice and the link though, if I do buy again it will probably be through a dealer so I can have a safety net. Thanks, James
 
Buyin' stuff sight unseen on ebay is a gamble.

Just because some cat says it is pristine in their write up and the saw shows up lookin' "new"... don't mean it's the truth.

Some guys will go through a lot of trouble to polish a turd and sell it on ebay.

Good luck gettin' your money back... :)

Gary
 
the main difference bw the two saws is the cylinder manufacturer and the displacement. there are some differences in the lower part, but nothing that makes one a pro saw and the other not. as a matter of fact, the 359 was listed as a pro saw a few model yrs ago. then again, .4hp is not a huge difference in power. a muffler mod will more than make up for the difference. then again, you could buy the 357 and MM it.
 
First try a new plug

There is a small hose (impulse hose)between the front of the carburetor and the cylinder of the engine. It's a about 1-2" long bent into a U shape. It's easier to see from the clutch side of the saw. Is this hose gray or black on your saw? The reason I ask is because I have a late 2004 model that had a gray looking hose that was kinked and wouldn't let the saw run. The dealer replaced it with a traditional looking black hose and it runs great. I later read somewhere that husqvarna was experimenting and having trouble with that gray looking impulse hose.
 
Put a new plug in it and pull out the decompression valve,pull out the choke and pull it over.As soon as you hear it pop push in the choke and pull.If it don't start in a couple pulls you have problems.Is the carb adjusted right?Pull the muffler and take a look at the P/C that can tell alot.
 
No offense meant but you did have the switch in the on position correct?
The red switch should be up to be in the on position from there if there is no spark try a new plug and if still no spark I would say the coil or ignition is probably the prob. If you have to replace the coil and ignition I would seriously have to consider getting my money back instead.
 
Hey Guys,
Thanks for the replies. Yes, I did have the stop switch in the right position but I don't mind the question at all. The impulse hose looks black to me and looks in fine shape as in no dry rotting or anything. Yes, I understand ebay can be hit and miss but the pics looked pretty good, the only thing was you could see the muffler, but it was in shadow so I could not see any of the rust. I really do not think this was a badly used saw that someone has cleaned up, there are no scuffs or scratches anywhere, but on some of the screws like the muffler there is that slight patina of rust, not like flaking off, just slightly discolored. Does anyone know if I flooded it by cranking on it with the choke out so many times, or is that just possible with cheaper engines. I let it sit all night and I am going to try again and with a new spark plug also when I get one today. Thanks, James
 
Hi James,
Sometimes those Husky switches will short to ground, so no matter what position you have the switch in, its off. There is one short black lead that plugs into the switch when viewed from the top with the air cleaner off. Use a small flat bladed screwdriver to un-plug the lead from the switch and give it another try. Should this be the problem and the saw start, when your ready to shut it down, just pull the choke slide out.

Best wishes,
Bob
 
Hey Guys,
Thanks for the replies. Yes, I did have the stop switch in the right position but I don't mind the question at all. The impulse hose looks black to me and looks in fine shape as in no dry rotting or anything. Yes, I understand ebay can be hit and miss but the pics looked pretty good, the only thing was you could see the muffler, but it was in shadow so I could not see any of the rust. I really do not think this was a badly used saw that someone has cleaned up, there are no scuffs or scratches anywhere, but on some of the screws like the muffler there is that slight patina of rust, not like flaking off, just slightly discolored. Does anyone know if I flooded it by cranking on it with the choke out so many times, or is that just possible with cheaper engines. I let it sit all night and I am going to try again and with a new spark plug also when I get one today. Thanks, James

I'd guess you flooded it bad, if it tried to start once you should have spark. Put that new plug in, if it's still flooded after sitting for a while hold the throttle wide open while cranking it over, most times 10 pulls or so will get it running. It could be that after sitting that long the needle could be sticking open but not likely if it never had fuel in it. Steve
 
Check your plug gap,then re-check for spark, preferably in a dark area and with the plug grounded to the cylinder.

I bet it's just flooded, very easy to do with a virgin 359. 3 pulls with the choke out, then push it in and continue. Never choke past the initial cough, trust me that saw can be finicky in the beginning.
 
I'm willing to bet that it's just a starting technique problem.

cold start:
1) Full choke, fast idle on
2) Pull hard/fast until you get a "pop" or a "cough" max 3-4 pulls then:
3) choke off, fast idle still on: saw should start in 1 or 2 more pulls

lukewarm start:
1) fast idle only

hot start:
1) just pull it!

If it's flooded from using improper technique, it should start the next day if you take the plug out and let everything dry out. If you suspect that you're flooding it (smell of fuel?) then choke should be off and fast idle on.

If this doesn't work, then you do have a mechanical problem. However, I wouldn't be too quick to jump to any conclusions that you got ripped off.

Welcome to AS!
 
If I had to bet I think I flooded it, because I did hear a pop but then kept cranking with the choke out. Also, if I flooded it, will the spark plug not spark until it dries? When you say fast idle, do you mean the idle screw on the carburetor? I am going to try adjusting the screws a bit on it, it came with the limiters, does anyone know the general position the screws should be in to start the best? Thanks, James
 

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