HELP PLEASE with "new" husqvarna 359

[TraditionalTool]

Ok, I ran it some more and it isn't really smoking any more, will I be safe keeping it on the rich settings considering it is limited by the epa and I would think they would want to run it leaner?

Most likely YES. It is better to err on the rich side than the lean.

When the saws get a lot of fuel in the cylinder, they will smoke when they start up like that, and then it should taper off...sounds like your ok from your description.

 

[blsnelling]

Your carb has tabs on the adjustment screws in order to limit how much you can adjust them. Leave them turned all the way counter clockwise. This is likely where it was to begin with. Go cut some wood and report back.

 

[DougNH]

Ok, I ran it some more and it isn't really smoking any more, will I be safe keeping it on the rich settings considering it is limited by the epa and I would think they would want to run it leaner?

Most newer Huskies I've owned run fine stock on pump gas (which has at least 5% ethanol here) with the "H" as rich as it will go to the limiter (max counterclockwise) and then just adjust the "L" for best throttle response off idle when warm, which might be anywhere within the limited range. If you modify the saw, the optimal setting will be different and quite possibly well outside of the range allowed by the limiters. If you use race or aviation fuel in a stock saw you might actually find your best setting is a CH or two leaner than max rich on the H. When in doubt, like TraditionalTool said, start rich and work your way back if the saw runs too fat.

 

[JT78]

Glad to see you got her running as stated before set the L and H as far as the limiters will allow in the counter clockwise direction. Keep your chain sharp and make sure you run fresh mixed gas in it and it will last you a long time. Welcome to Arboristsite.

 

[Mac_Muz]

That is good news.... Did you test the original plug too?

I looked at my settings, and the low speed screw "L" was set as far anti clockwise as if could be with the limiter caps. Oddly and I have no idea why, but my "H" screw is capped over, and I can't turn it.

I can remove the limiter, but the saw runs about right IMO.

My saw smokes on first start too. Yesterday it really smoked as the safety kleen was burning off.

Today i went and bought a box of files for the cutters, one file for the rakers, more mix oil, and 2 new chains.

When I got back I re-filed the chain on both the cutters and the rakers.

The owner before me used a file but not very well. All the cutters were at odd and different lengths.All the rakers had never been filed down once.

I didn't even bother to try cutting anything before I fixed that.

This tip that I am now going to give you on hand filing took me years to discover. if you do this it will get you a better filing done from day 1.

Before you cut much of anything at all, go look at the cutters and lay a flat file across as many as the file is long, and look at the rakers. They will be pretty high.

With a new chain you may as well run the rakers that high I guess, but make a good mental picture of the way a new chain is.

Then when the cutters become dull and you find you need to force the saw into wood, stop and sharpen the cutters. let the saw do the work.

The thing that is hard to do is file one set of cutters, unless you happen to be ambidexterous. If you are the rest is a waste of time. If you aren't read on.

I file right handed and steady the file with my left hand. With out filing any go see the angles you must hold and on will be harder to do.

That harder side is the side I file first and to do it I clamp the saw upside in a vise, which just made it easy.

As I was saying my new to me used saw was poorly filed, and that guy had no idea that placing the saw upside and doing the harder side first was the thing to do.

All these cutters were far longer than the side he could file better.

So my first filings were about 12 strokes to even up the off side cutters. Then I flipped the saw over right side up and filed about 3 stokes on each cutter, which made them all about even. Common wrenches can be used as gauges. Find the smallest cutter and a wrench that just clears it and use that wrench to match all the rest of the cutters. This isn't exact work this way, but it is good enough for Govt work.

Some guys use a set of digital calipers and I just don't think that makes all that much difference.

With that done I took each raker down 12 file strokes, flipping the say once more for the off side, which reverses filing rakers. That made this saw eat wood.

Last.. which should have been first is to paint one cutter to know where you are. Lots of guys hunt for the doubled cutters, but I consider that a waste of time.

 

[Mac_Muz]

The rust... i don't know a soul that cleans up that well, that a muffler won't get rusty in years of time.

If you happen to be just that fussy, you can make sure that muffler never gets rusty on the outside anyway.

You will wipe it down and steel wool it once in a while and smear an oily rag on it. And will have to do so each and every time you ever use the saw after it cools.

If you do this sooner or later it will cook the oil black, sort of like seasoning a cast iron fry pan.

 

[Jmaffei]

Ok I tried it out on a few logs I had and the saw didn't slow down one bit through the wood, I haven't buried it yet, just used to weaker saws I think. I can't wait to see how it runs with the non cat muffler I've got coming, I think I may let a shop do the adjustments with a tach after that goes on. What kind of chain do you guys recommend, it currently has the 20 inch safety chain in 3/8. Obviously with me not being that experienced I don't mind the anti-kickback chain too much but I have never actually felt kickback yet b/c I am very careful in my cutting. I am thinking about just ordering some full chisel woodland pro, will this be ok? I don't really run into anything dirty and I use a timberjack so I don't hit the ground. Thanks for the sharpening advice Mac Muz. Also, I called the shop that I got the spark plug from and asked about the recall on that intake boot clamp, they said they are aware of it but are going to ask if they can do the work, said something about a time limit after the service bulletin, does anyone know anything about this?

 

[blsnelling]

Get yourself a loop of Stihl RSC chain.

 

[danrclem]

I'm glad to hear that you got it going J. When I first got my 359 I was getting disgusted fast because it was hard to start and flooded easy. I went back and re-read my owners manual and everything seemed to fall in place. After I learned how to start it and it started breaking in it was an easy starter.

Welcome to AS

 

[Mac_Muz]

Are you sure there is a 20 inch bar and 3/8" chain on it? The manual I have says 18" bar and .325 chain is std.

Any bar with in reason is fine, but if .325 chain is standard, then either there is an option I am un-aware if, or someone has changed (I hope ) the clutch drive where the driving part of the chain is driven.

'IF' your manual is like mine see pg 14 "Chain drive sprocket".

Running the wrong chain in a sprocket will tear up the sprocket.

I run anti kick back chain all the time on any saw. The better a non anti kick chain is measured in degrees.. I just file my rakers down a bit more than would be normal, which makes the chain a little more lethal, but not so lethal as kick back chain is. Use the saw as is and see how it cuts.

A word on the non-cat muff: It is probably better to go create 3 or 4 cords of wood with the cat muff before you swap out the muff.

The reason is the saw will likely break in better due to being somewhat restricted which i agree it is. Mine seems so.

Working on line alot with motorcycles I find that people who have not used what ever bike they have all stock for long enough, and change to moddified engines to fast, never really understand what the changes did.

It is pretty hard to know what you got, when you never really knew what you had, see?

I am not saying don't make the mod, but use the saw some. With that said I would like a pm telling me about where you order the muff, and costs..

Mix adjustments.. It appears as either my H screw is capped off, or it is buggered up, I can't turn it, nor feel a screw driver grab in the screw notch.

I will have to get a closer up look see to tell for sure.

The L screw is set as far counter clockwise as is possible with the limiter. I can turn this one apx 1/2 turn to lean.

 

[Trigger Man]

Quote"Are you sure there is a 20 inch bar and 3/8" chain on it? The manual I have says 18" bar and .325 chain is std."
The newer 359 and 357's can come in either 3/8" or .325 pitch, my 357 came with 3/8" ,actually my dealer said that all the newer ones he's had come in were 3/8". However I would have preferred .325 on my saw but I can always change later on.

 

[Mac_Muz]

Thanks Trigger Man. So far I owned this 359 about 4 days. It is a 05 model.

I see now my book isn't going to match Jmaffei's book.

 

[Trigger Man]

Thanks Trigger Man. So far I owned this 359 about 4 days. It is a 05 model.

I see now my book isn't going to match Jmaffei's book.

It's all good, the books should be very close to the same the 3/8" or .325 pitch thing, I think depends more on which maket the saw is being sold in, some areas probably sell one or the other more often.

 

[TraditionalTool]

I can't wait to see how it runs with the non cat muffler I've got coming, I think I may let a shop do the adjustments with a tach after that goes on.

Remember, if you modify the muffler you won't be able to use a tach to adjust it, and even so, replacing a non-cat muffler on a saw that was intended to have a cat-muffler might not work, I'm not sure. Bottom line is that you really need to cut the limiter tabs off the carb needles, and if you have a limited coil, it will most likely present a wall you could run into as well.

IMO, don't replace the muffler unless your willing to start changing some of the factory settings, and once you do you might as well toss the tachometer out the window. To have a properly running saw, you will most likely need to at minimum cut the tab limiters off and tune it up properly.

FWIW, it is possible to neuter a cat muffler, the one on my 359 was done by the person I bought it from. It's your money though, not meaning to suggest how you spend it.

 

[Mac_Muz]

TT, I agree with all other than I don't understand why a tach wouldn't read rpm, no matter what muffler was on a saw.

I don't have a saw tach, but I have seen the inductive tachs in the husky shop.

Do you mean to say the rpms where the modded saw will be will not match a book spec, and this is why the tach won't work? I could understand that much better.

 

[outdoortype]

A tach will work fine and be a safe bet

If you're just switching to the non cat version than the factory rpm specs are valid. Remember, that saw was originally designed with a non cat muffler with a max RPM of 13,500. I like to use my ear and then verify that I'm in the safe range with a tachometer.