HELP Re: Manual / Gas Pole Saw Selection for Clearing Road, Fence and Downed Trees

[owenslee]

Hello all from Iron Co Missouri…

My first post...but I need some suggestions.

I have been lurking for a few days researching what saws I need at my farm.

I am 63, retired and have 300 ac surrounded by Mark Twain National Forest where about half of my acreage is in hay fields and the other half in mature timber. Tree varieties consist of Soft Needle Pine, White Oak, Pin Oak, Wild Cherry, Wild Plum, Sycamore, and an excess of Red Cedar.

Ice storms over the past two years have really impacted the property with many trees and limbs down over fences and trails. Access roads are almost too narrow for vehicles due to large fast growing red cedars encroaching into the roads. This year I intend to make a concerted effort to get the roads cleared and the place cleaned up.

I have a M5040HD 4WD Kubota with FEL and 60” twin cylinder grapple bucket for handing and transporting tree limbs and trunks. I have several conventional XL Husky chain saws up to 24”.

What I need from the experts here are recommendations on manual or gas powered pole saws to add to my tool kit.

I see my primary needs as:

1. A saw to help remove the large and small Red Cedars along the roads and fences. Something to reach in and clear enough limbs for access to the trunk.

2. A powered pole saw to limb many of the larger fallen trees too high for a conventional chain saw.

3. A saw to clear overhanging limbs around the perimeter of my hay fields and lower limbs of pine trees in an open savannah for mowing clearance up to about 10’

4. A saw to clear new Wild Plum and Wild Cherry growth in old open fields that are too large for a 72” Rhino Brush Hog to cut. I am looking for a saw that can be used for cutting close to the ground while standing… as an old motorcycle injury to my back prevents me from bending over for extended periods. My concern here is protecting the blade from damage.

None of this cutting will involve climbing. All work will be done from the ground or tractor platform.

At this point I have focused my attention on a Echo PPT-265 and a Hayauchi or Hayate in either the 16’ or 21’ lengths.

I am having some difficulty deciding on manual pole saw length. The 16’ would seem to be plenty as I am not climbing or topping trees, yet most of the owners seem to prefer the greater height capability of the 21’ model. I suspect even the 12’ length would serve my needs but…I am not the expert here. And I would prefer to have a bit more capability for those unexpected challenges. So…12’…16’…21’…???

Any suggestions, alternate choices or comments?

BTW, my dad has a one year old Stihl 131 and has had multiple issues with the pole and drive shaft that I have excluded it from consideration…yet I like their chain saws.

Thanks in advance.

Kerry
Viburnum MO

 

[owenslee]

Ok....lacking any input I ordered the Echo PPT 265 gas pole saw. However I am still not comfortable on what length of manual pole saw to buy.

I am leaning more toward the Hayauchi due the the positive reports but again I am reluctant to buy a longer 21' saw if a 12 or 16' will cost less and work as well for what I need to do.

I like the idea of a shorter, lighter, handier, less expensive saw. For what I can save over buying a 21' foot model I can nearly buy an extra blade which I suspect would get far more use than the extra 5' of pole length.

Perhaps the 16' would be the most cost effective and best compromise.

I see too where Silky is increasing prices this month... so I need to make a choice ASAP.

 

[climberjones]

Ifind the longer the power pruner the harder on the neck i use a stihl works every time if your just wanting a good all around medium duty start every time saw consider the 029 super or 192 climber or echo300t not build quite as tuff as they used to be but im rough on stuff so !

 

[owenslee]

Thanks for the response... but what I'm needing is a length recommendation on a manual Silky pole saw.

Right now I'm torn between a 16' Hayauchi and a 12' Longboy for working on the ground.

(I already have three conventional chain saws from 12" to 24".)

 

[climberjones]

Thanks for the response... but what I'm needing is a length recommendation on a manual Silky pole saw.

Right now I'm torn between a 16' Hayauchi and a 12' Longboy for working on the ground.

(I already have three conventional chain saws from 12" to 24".)

OH i use jameson fiberglass poles they just come in sections so you can snap oneon for the taller stuff and take one off for the shorter!
I believe they come in 6ft and 8ft sections.

 

[WDG]

One consideration of a longer pole is to allow you to get higher limbs while NOT standing under the limbs. A shorter pole might technically be long enough to reach the limbs you want to reach, but if it requires you to stand directly under the limb to cut it, that's a recipe for an injury.

As for cutting low to the ground without bending, I don't think a pole saw is going to help so much. You've still got to get down low to cut more or less level across the stump. It does make cutting up downed branches without bending down easy. The saw I use (Ryobi TP30) can be as short as about 6', so is perfect for this.

I would choose an Echo today, as I would really like to have the extra reach available with it. I'm not sure if anyone else can match that feature in a power pruner. Manual saws can be longer still.

 

[cityboy]

Hello all from Iron Co Missouri…

I am having some difficulty deciding on manual pole saw length. The 16’ would seem to be plenty as I am not climbing or topping trees, yet most of the owners seem to prefer the greater height capability of the 21’ model. I suspect even the 12’ length would serve my needs but…I am not the expert here. And I would prefer to have a bit more capability for those unexpected challenges. So…12’…16’…21’…???

Any suggestions, alternate choices or comments?

I saw something at the local ag supply store a couple months ago that you might want to consider. I didn't buy it so I don't know who makes it, but the idea is simple. You buy a fixed blade with an attachment coupling, which attaches to a fixed length pole that I think was about 6-8 ft long. The end of the pole has the same attachment coupling on the other end, so you can attach another section of pole to extend it another 6-8ft, and so on. The poles and the attachment couplings were very sturdy, I'd guess you could connect three of them together and still have a pretty stiff setup with which to cut.

Sorry I don't have more specific info, but this sounds like it might be of use to you since you're not committing to any one length when you buy it, so you can always make it longer later.

 

[Ax-man]

I don't know what issues you could be having with the the Stihl 131. Stihl's power pruners are usually bullet proof. I would reconsider on that one. Echo is an underpowered machine compared to the Stihl. From what your describing you are going to need all the power you can get. Using a manuel polesaw is going to get old fast. Their main use is for small diameter linbs usually under 2 inch and high up like to a height of around 18 feet. If your going to use a regular pole saw 6 ft. fiberglass sections are the way to go. Wood poles are lighter but not as durable. Cutting blades are a personal choice depending on the work. For general pruning and limb raising the extra thick blades are nice and won't bend and just about as sharp as any blade on the market. They aren't for fine pruning and a nice looking finish cut but from what your describing this isn't a concern.

I am not a big fan of the newer generation of polesaws. Too light and flimsy . Besides doing trimming a polesaw is used to pull limbs out of a tree that don't come free after they are cut. They can also be used to guide limbs while they are being cut if need be. The 6ft sectional poles are the way to go in my book along with a head that has hefty hook on it.

A gas powered polesaw can be used for clearing underbrush and cutting up downed tree limbs without having to bend over. I have used one for that very same purpose. You have to bend a little at times but not like you would have to do with a regular chainsaw. Actually it is easier sometimes to me to cut brush and downed material with a powerpruner. Just easier to work from the outside in than it would be to try and get a saw into the middle of a overgrown scrub tree to cut the main stem.

Good luck with your project.

 

[Grace Tree]

Skip the Longboy. It's more of a climbing pole saw. I love mine but it's much more fragile than the regular Silky pole saws. Echo 265 has been a good saw for me. I think I've had it for 4 or 5 years and we don't use it much but the only parts we've replaced are from accidents. It's s-l-o-w. Rev it up, lay it on the cut and hold the throttle open and wait.
Phil

 

[Grouchy old man]

I saw something at the local ag supply store a couple months ago that you might want to consider. I didn't buy it so I don't know who makes it, but the idea is simple. You buy a fixed blade with an attachment coupling, which attaches to a fixed length pole that I think was about 6-8 ft long. The end of the pole has the same attachment coupling on the other end, so you can attach another section of pole to extend it another 6-8ft, and so on. The poles and the attachment couplings were very sturdy, I'd guess you could connect three of them together and still have a pretty stiff setup with which to cut.

Sorry I don't have more specific info, but this sounds like it might be of use to you since you're not committing to any one length when you buy it, so you can always make it longer later.

Jameson is one-

saw head

poles

They also make pruners

 

[owenslee]

I don't know what issues you could be having with the the Stihl 131. Stihl's power pruners are usually bullet proof. I would reconsider on that one.

My dad called just tonight to tell me his nearly new Stihl HT131 has bent a drive shaft for the second time. This time it is not repairable and the dealer wants $300 to replace the shaft on a saw that is not a year old and has been used four times. He and I have both been big Stihl chainsaw fans....but never again for either of us.

When my dad asked about "warranty" he was told all Stihl drive shafts have a limited lifetime warranty....But... The HT 101 and HT131 pole saw drive shafts are "excluded"... !!!

I now understand why.

Yet Echo has a five year drive shaft warranty and Tanaka has a unlimited lifetime warranty on their pole saw drive shafts...which are a splined STEEL shaft....not aluminum.

Stihl may make a good engine but there are too many reports of driveshaft failures on the HT101 / 131 series that owners have to pay for out of pocket.

But thanks for the other good suggestions...!

 

[climberjones]

My dad called just tonight to tell me his nearly new Stihl HT131 has bent a drive shaft for the second time. This time it is not repairable and the dealer wants $300 to replace the shaft on a saw that is not a year old and has been used four times. He and I have both been big Stihl chainsaw fans....but never again for either of us.

When my dad asked about "warranty" he was told all Stihl drive shafts have a limited lifetime warranty....But... The HT 101 and HT131 pole saw drive shafts are "excluded"... !!!

I now understand why.

Yet Echo has a five year drive shaft warranty and Tanaka has a unlimited lifetime warranty on their pole saw drive shafts...which are a splined STEEL shaft....not aluminum.

Stihl may make a good engine but there are too many reports of driveshaft failures on the HT101 / 131 series that owners have to pay for out of pocket.

But thanks for the other good suggestions...!

If you have proof of purchase and the date and no outward bend or dent in the pole i would call sthl and get in there $@# i bought a 650 magnum and the oiler didnt work right from the get go and the dealer tried that sh%# with me so i called stihl and gave them an ear full and theytook care of it if you dont make a fuss they will just ignore you!! Give them hell you paid for it!!

 

[GordonCBP]

Tanaka is a great brand and the model you would be looking at is a TPS-260PF

Tanaka TPS-260PF Power Tree Pruner

7 Yr Warranty PLUS Lifetime Drive Shaft Warranty!

These would be the 2 closest dealers to you:

Tanaka Dealer Locator Search Results

 

[owenslee]

Initially I looked at the Tanaka and like it a lot for it's light weight and lifetime warranty but in the end it was too short even with the 3' extension.

I first ordered the Echo PPT265 pole saw from Wise Equip. then called back and changed the order to the PPT280 which I now have and like a lot. The optional harness has worked well for supporting the weight. Better than I expected it would. It starts easily and has plenty of power so far. It really works well. Just a little awkward when fully extended. I like the controls and balance much better than my dad's (now broken) Stihl HT131.

I also bought a 21' Silky Haybachi with extra blade, A Corona 18' Razor Pruning saw and folding 10" Razor saw, Corona 16' Compound Pruner, Corona forged 3" loppers, and then fell into a deal on a new "open box" Echo CS370 with two extra new chains for $150...and added that to the existing stable of four chain saws.

Even bought my first helmet with ear protection and face shield. A Husky which is surprisingly comfortable. I like the fact that it has a provision thats approved by Husky for opening up the molded slots on top for better air circulation. A real bargain for $45.

If I can't cut it with those tools...with what I already have...it doesn't need to be cut.

So far the biggest job has been picking up and moving all the dropped limbs with the grapple bucket on my M50 Kubota. BTW the grapple works really well for pulling 6' - 10' red cedars out of the ground after a rain.

I have a lot of work ahead of me but should be equipped to handle it. Now I just need to exchange my wore out 63 YO body for a younger one...:msp_sad:

Thanks for all the responses and suggestions.