Help setting points...

[laneparsons]

I am trying to set the points on an Echo 302. The flywheel has two marks on it (one labeled F and one labeled T)...When the flywheel timimg mark is lined up on the one labeled "T" to the timing mark on the saw body, is this where I set the points to start opening at the smallest gap?


Thanks in Advance

Lane

 

[treeclimber165]

My old man showed me how to set points when I was 12. I think I adjusted 1 set of points in my whole life. Can I help it if I grew up in a world with electronic ignition?
When I purchased my 1st Echo weedeater and backpack blower at the age of 16, they had already been using electronic ignition for 2-3 years. I just missed out on all the fun.:angel:

 

[laneparsons]

Im not old...its just the saw...well, maybe this grey hair really does mean something!!

Thanks Brian

Lane

 

[Dave]

Hi Lane-
Turn the crank so the point arm is resting on the highest part of the cam lobe and set points to .014" The marks are for setting timing and my book is kind of murky on 302 ignition

 

[laneparsons]

Dave,

Thanks...I will give it a try...

Lane

 

[oakman]

lane, the f and t on the flywheel refer to fire, and top, (top dead center). the way to set the points is to use a continuity light, available at any hardware store in electrical dept. for a couple bucks. you unhook the capacitor, and clip one end of the light to ground, and the other to the arm side of the contact points. if the light has a pointer end, as most do, just use a jumper wire with 2 alligator clips on the pointed end. position the points to the high lobe on the crank, and adjust the gap to specs, then put the flywheel on and rotate the flywheel slowly till the f mark lines up. this is where the continuity light should light up. adjust the timing till you get the light to light up right on the f mark. this is easy to do once you do it a couple times, and is the procedure for nearly all 2 stroke motors with point style ignitions. good luck

 

[oakman]

lane,
i need to clarify one thing for you on setting the timing. the continuity light will be ON as long as the points are closed. it is when they open that the spark is generated, so when you rotate the flywheel up to the f mark, you are looking for the light to go OFF. most 2 strokes with point style ignition have the points mounted to a base ring which can be rotated to adjust the timing by loosening up the lock screws. i haven't done this for awhile, so i was telling you wrong when i said the light will come on when the flywheel gets to the f mark. sorry for the confusion, and hope this helps. tim

 

[homelite360]

i have seen this little electronic box that bolts right in place of the points on a saw. they work great and you do not have to se the gap. i think that they are like 12-13 bucks. i think that you can get them for your local parts dealer.

 

[laneparsons]

Andrew,

That would be great...the price of the ignition module for this saw is around 50 bucks...I will look into that...

Thanks for the information

Lane

 

[Mr. Firewood]

northern tool has them for $12.99

 

[homelite360]

http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=11844&prmenbr=6970

that is the link to the part. they work like a charm

 

[lostone]

Sorry for bringing up an old thread but didn't want to start a new one, when I clicked on the link it said the page wasn't available. Is this the box for the breakerless design?
Northerntool

 

[Lawn Masters]

I know a few places that have one, called an ATOM module I believe. I'm pretty sure I've got one sitting here somewhere.

 

[lostone]

Is this the one you are talking about?
ATOM module
It says {Not a replacement for capacitor discharge ignition} I'm still learning on chainsaws so I'm not sure the saw would have that or not until I can get under the flywheel and see. The book is saying there are 3 types for it.

1. Breaker-controlled Ignition System (Points I'm assuming)?

2. Transistor-controlled (breakerless) Ignition System-Bosch (no need for conversion)

3. Thyristor-controlled (breakerless) Magneto Capacitor Ignition System-SEM(no need for conversion)

I don't have access to the saw for a couple of days, but I'm wanting to find out if it has points and change it over if that is the case. It's a stihl 028 WB the idle keeps changing on it on its own but I think that is a carb issue so I have an overhaul kit for that, the saw is spotless (dirt cleaned out) and if you run the saw the air coming off of the fan on it is hot enough to cook off of so I shut it off until I am able to find out what it is (hoping just a carb leaning out), I was reading in another post that the timing could be off and also cause it to run hot. So I figure if it has points and I have to go into it that far I will just convert it if it can be done.

 

[Al Smith]

Points

A pointer,on points.Most troubles with point type ignitions,will be on the primary,or low voltage side of the system.This portion,consists of the breaker points,the capacitor[condensor],and the primary winding of the coil.On magneto systems,the low voltage side,may be less than 1 volt.Any amount of corrosion,on the points,can lead to a misfunction,of the system.In addition,connections on the cap. kill swich etc.all need to be checked for good continuity.From my experiance,very seldom does the coil go bad,it is usually some other componet.The continuity light method,as has been mentioned,is about a good of way to set the points,as any ,and especialy for those , whom are gaining experiace,with these systems[we all had to learn at some time]This is strickly my opinoin,but,if you have a point type system,that is functional,or easily repairable,let well enough alone.These systems have worked fine ,for years.

 

[lostone]

Da*n sub sailors , Thanks AL. It's been 20 years sense I have dealt with points and then only a few times, checking the timing is going to be the larger part of the issue to me. The fuel on this saw is fresh (mixed at 40:1) and it starts fine usually on the first pull (cold or hot) but the amount of heat that came off of the saw gave me some concern, the piston and cylinder are fine (no scoring) and I would like to get the saw running as it should before the heat has a chance to kill it. So I'm hoping that it's just the carb leaning out, Like I said before I'm not sure if the saw has points or not and I'm hoping it has the bosch system in it. I have the repair manual on this saw, but I'm new to 2 stroke engines so I'm just trying to get all the info I can before I tear into it so I don't have to keep going back or kill it. It's not my main saw, Actually I bought it more or less to learn on but after running the saw and cleaning it up I really like it.

 

[Al Smith]

More info

Another point,about points,I forgot to point out.If you use any sand paper,type abrasive,to clean up the points,use aluminum oxide paper,not emery.After you have burnished the points,take a piece of lens cleaning paper[used for eyeglasses and clean over that which you have burnished.reason being,even the tiniest bit of abrasive,left clinging to the points,will cause a malfunction.Now,that's getting to the point of the matter.

 

[lostone]

I still have a few points files. I use them to clean contacts on refridgeration system. But thanks for the tips. West or East Coast sailor Al? I was stationed in San Diego (Surface Fleet) DDG7

 

[rupedoggy]

I would suggest the 028 has a lean running issue. The timing will not usually be so far off that it will cause hot running without a real problem starting. I would crank out the high speed and if it is out much more than one and one half turns (to run decent) you probably have an air leak some where. The clue for me is you said it goes up and down at idle. This is a classic sign of a possible air leak. Find that leak and then open the muffler and you will not have a hot running saw.
My trouble shooting would probably go something like this:
1. Check pulse line for cracks or splits.
2.Check gas line for same things and clean filter also.
3.Check rubber boot between carburetor and cylinder.
4. Rebuild Carburetor so diaphram and needle and seat is correct and in proper adjustment. That little screen in there may need cleaning also.
5. Remove clutch and look at seal behind it for any rotting, deforming or hardness and alignment problem. This is the side where the heat from the clutch is located and more likely to go bad.
6. Do the same to the flywheel side after removing it.
7. The base gasket and case gasket are about the only places left for a leak.
Did I forget anything guys? Mike

 

[lostone]

Originally posted by rupedoggy
The clue for me is you said it goes up and down at idle.

When you start the saw it idle's fine then as the saw warms up it starts to run faster you have to set the idle down, it is a steady idle other than the fact it wants to speed up but it doesn't go up and down. If that would be another indicator?

1. Check pulse line for cracks or splits.

New impulse line installed.

2.Check gas line for same things and clean filter also.

New fuel line and fuel filter installed.

3.Check rubber boot between carburetor and cylinder.

Checked and in good condition.

4. Rebuild Carburetor so diaphram and needle and seat is correct and in proper adjustment. That little screen in there may need cleaning also.

Still need to rebuild carb, I have the rebuild kit.

5. Remove clutch and look at seal behind it for any rotting, deforming or hardness and alignment problem. This is the side where the heat from the clutch is located and more likely to go bad.

I am considering changing the seal while I have the clutch off. If it isn’t to hard to remove the old one and install a new one. Even if the old one is in good shape.

6. Do the same to the flywheel side after removing it..

I am considering changing seal while I have the flywheel off. If it isn’t to hard to remove the old one and install a new one. Even if the old one is in good shape.

7. The base gasket and case gasket are about the only places left for a leak.

I have to figure out a way to stop the piston so I can remove the clutch and flywheel, I have a vacuum pump so I will try to run a test on the crankcase when I rebuild the carb. I will inspect the seals while I'm there. Thanks for the tips, I can really use the help and it is appreciated.
Also a new spark plug and new air filter have been installed.

Did I forget anything guys?