Help with a Homelite 360

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Smiles79

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Got my free 360 to start after cleaning out the carb. I have the upper (high?) adjustment screw 1 turn out and the lower 1 1/4 turns out. Where's the best place to start with the idle screw? I can either get it to start and rev all the way up or I can get it to start and idle for a bit then die.



I know people talk about the carb boot and a fast idle can be a sign of an air leak. Is boot the rubber piece that the carb sits down on, that fits inside the body of the chainsaw? Does it just pull out? Pictures would be appreciated!
 
Got my free 360 to start after cleaning out the carb. I have the upper (high?) adjustment screw 1 turn out and the lower 1 1/4 turns out. Where's the best place to start with the idle screw? I can either get it to start and rev all the way up or I can get it to start and idle for a bit then die.



I know people talk about the carb boot and a fast idle can be a sign of an air leak. Is boot the rubber piece that the carb sits down on, that fits inside the body of the chainsaw? Does it just pull out? Pictures would be appreciated!
Yes, the boot is the rubber part that the carb sits down on. In order to remove it you have to disconnect the handle and all (4) of the AV mounts the saw separates into two pieces. the boot is held onto the cylinder with a plate that has 4 small little bolts and I believe it is a friction fit/round spring on the carb side of the saw.
Hope this helps
 
Yes, the boot is the rubber part that the carb sits down on. In order to remove it you have to disconnect the handle and all (4) of the AV mounts the saw separates into two pieces. the boor is held onto the cylinder with a plate that has 4 small little bolts and I believe it is a friction fit/round spring on the carb side of the saw.
Hope this helps
If it's cracked will it be apparent without removing it?

Also, the throttle trigger on the handle doesn't seem and springy/snappy as it should. Can it be removed from the handle and cleaned?
 
If it's cracked will it be apparent without removing it?

Also, the throttle trigger on the handle doesn't seem and springy/snappy as it should. Can it be removed from the handle and cleaned?
It should be fairly apparent if its cracked. The spring for the throttle I'm pretty sure is built into the carburetor and the trigger itself doesn't have one though I may be wrong. I would probably just spray carb cleaner on the trigger mechanism/give it a light coating of 3 in 1 oil. I'm sure the trigger can be removed by I haven't ever personally removed it.
 
It should be fairly apparent if its cracked. The spring for the throttle I'm pretty sure is built into the carburetor and the trigger itself doesn't have one though I may be wrong. I would probably just spray carb cleaner on the trigger mechanism/give it a light coating of 3 in 1 oil. I'm sure the trigger can be removed by I haven't ever personally removed it.
Thanks for all the tips. Any idea on the running issue I'm having?
 
It sounds like its something with the carb but it could also possibly be the crank seals. I would probaly take the carb apart again and let it soak in some type of solvent.
 
If it's cracked will it be apparent without removing it?

Also, the throttle trigger on the handle doesn't seem and springy/snappy as it should. Can it be removed from the handle and cleaned?
I can almost guarantee that the intake boot is split, cracked, and turned into a mushy rubber mess! I own a couple of these 360 and at least 6 homelite 330 chainsaws! And everyone of them had a bad intake boot on them! 😉
 
I can almost guarantee that the intake boot is split, cracked, and turned into a mushy rubber mess! I own a couple of these 360 and at least 6 homelite 330 chainsaws! And everyone of them had a bad intake boot on them! 😉
Well surprisingly, this one looks to be in great shape.
 

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