Homelite 360 Keeps Flooding Out

Old2stroke · Feb 15, 2024

The second video is just another example of utube videos giving out misinformation. His long winded explanation of the purpose of the nozzle check valve is just wrong. Even if a back pressure pulse were to occur it could not force fuel back into the tank, the two check valves in the fuel pump would prevent it. Not an issue. The purpose of the check valve is to prevent air from being sucked back through the main nozzle into the low speed circuit and leaning out the low speed mix when the engine is idling.

Tony Mayhew · Feb 18, 2024

camer_1107 said:
Yeah I understand what you’re trying to describe now, but as you said this carburetor is not designed like that.

I’ll see if I can find the video you’re referring to, and take a look at some other ones as well.

I thought I would put my two cents in on this issue since I just went through three of those carbs last night that go to my 360 homelite chainsaws. First off, you don't want the arm level with the top of the body of the carb It will leave the needle open and puke fuel out of the exaust pipe! I have learned from experience that the arm needs to be ever so slightly lower than called for on the adjustment. When you push the arm down you should just barely see the needle move upward so slight that you really got to stare at it to see if it even moved! And I have seen it before where the arm moves up and down but the needle is stuck in the bore it rides up and down in. And just so as everyone knows this about a a homelite chainsaw, if you get ahold of a 330 or 350-750 that use the intake boots, you can bet your ass it needs to be replaced with an aftermarket boot made of something other than the crap they were using back when those saws were produced! Same goes for the duck bill in the fuel caps on these saws.if you get one of these saws and it will start and run, it's because someone already has replaced it before you got your hands on it guaranteed! The boots, duck bills, and the rubber grommet in the center of the air filter are made out of this cheap crap that homelite used and fuel literally melts this stuff into a gooey mess! I have a bunch of these saws and when I get ahold of them I go directly to the intake boot first to diagnose the issue of no start! And second thing before even pulling the sparkplug is pull the starter side cover and clean the crap off of the ignition coil! You must have a sharp chain on a chainsaw or it doesn't make chips! Enstead, it makes powdery sawdust that becomes air borne and the fins on the flywheel will suck that crap into the body of the saw and coat the coil with a thick layer of oiley sawdust and interfere with the magnetic field as the flywheel passes by the coil and the saw will just keep running rougher and rougher until it finally won't start any longer.

Jasonrkba · Feb 19, 2024

Old2stroke said:
The second video is just another example of utube videos giving out misinformation. His long winded explanation of the purpose of the nozzle check valve is just wrong. Even if a back pressure pulse were to occur it could not force fuel back into the tank, the two check valves in the fuel pump would prevent it. Not an issue. The purpose of the check valve is to prevent air from being sucked back through the main nozzle into the low speed circuit and leaning out the low speed mix when the engine is idling.

You went and Done it now.

Leon cleared it up today sighting your post. Kudos to him. Pretty informative video in my opinion. I've learned a lot from him over the years especially when it comes to old Homelites.

Tony Mayhew · Feb 20, 2024

Jasonrkba said:
You went and Done it now. Leon cleared it up today sighting your post. Kudos to him. Pretty informative video in my opinion. I've learned a lot from him over the years especially when it comes to old Homelites.

I'm gonna have to second that knowledge i have gained due to Leon being kind enough to share what he knows. And he is man enough to say he had given the wrong information and he surely didn't have malicious intent behind it! I chat with the man accasionally and you would be hard pressed to find a finer individual then Leon! He is only human,so don't be looking down on him for one thing! The excellent information he gives us far out weighs a one time slip up and I still consider the man my go to guy when I need information about a homelite chainsaw.

camer_1107 · Feb 20, 2024

Hey everyone, here is the last update on this saw for now. In short, it is running good now, no more flooding issues.

I decided to start over and completely clean and rebuild the carburetor again using the best parts from both of the ones I already had, as well as a brand new check valve kit. I made sure I used a float diaphragm with the proper sized nub on it, and I also followed Tony’s advice and set the needle valve lever a bit lower than the carb deck. I pressure tested the carburetor after it was put back together and it checked out. I also did another compression test on the saw to make sure that was right and it was in the 150 psi range, so I’m not sure why I was so off on the first test but oh well. When I started the saw, it immediately stayed at a steady rpm and I was able to adjust the screws and get normal results. Now all that is left to do is to tune it properly, but I have to wait until tomorrow to do that because I don’t want to wake up the whole neighborhood! Lol.

This problem was a bit frustrating for me, but it turned out to be a bit of a simple solution, as is what often happens to be the case. At least I was able to gain some knowledge from it to use in the future. Thanks everyone for your help and advice, it was greatly appreciated.