Help with ideas for 1st log splitter build

Wesspur
Rugged made
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Made some good progress this weekend. Got the beam done and primed. All I need to do is add the bottom clips that will bolt it to the hydro tank and I can paint. I need to measure the tires so I get my hight right so when I swing the beam up, it touches the ground. I got the hydro tank tacked up. I need to test fit and cut come holes in the tank before I seal it up. I know the tank is a little overkill. Its gonna take about 20 gallons of UTF to fill it up. I shouldn't have any problems with it getting hot! My first order of parts should be in on Monday. The cylinder, valve and hydro pump will be here Wednesday. I ordered a new motor, Briggs 1105, which should be here Wednesday also. More to follow.
 
Zeus103363 said:
View attachment 244089

Thanks for the photo help! Photo is of the beam for my log splitter. More to follow!
Click to expand...

244089d1341512823-img756-jpg
 
Zeus103363 said:
Made some good progress this weekend. Got the beam done and primed. All I need to do is add the bottom clips that will bolt it to the hydro tank and I can paint. I need to measure the tires so I get my hight right so when I swing the beam up, it touches the ground. I got the hydro tank tacked up. I need to test fit and cut come holes in the tank before I seal it up. I know the tank is a little overkill. Its gonna take about 20 gallons of UTF to fill it up. I shouldn't have any problems with it getting hot! My first order of parts should be in on Monday. The cylinder, valve and hydro pump will be here Wednesday. I ordered a new motor, Briggs 1105, which should be here Wednesday also. More to follow.
Click to expand...

244460d1341769338-img770-jpg

244461d1341769398-img769-jpg

244462d1341769460-img768-jpg
 
Zeus103363 said:
Manyhobbies, how did you do that? Every time I post photos it just posts a link to the photos, not the actual picture in the post.
Click to expand...

Took me 2 years to figure that out. Tried every thread on the subject, as well as all the links in different user's sigs with on luck. When it was 100 degrees here last week, I decided to sit in the AC & "crap around" with it one afternoon & stumbled onto a back door way to do it.
 
good work so far.

View attachment 244697

I run the parade most years on my splitter. Self propelled is really kewl :rock:

second valve, old rear end, low speed high torque motor, build a front end. somewhere to stand on the contraption. Done :msp_biggrin:

Anyway, the 6hp would be find against the 11gpm pump. A 13.5 would be marginal. One of the issues is that if you run a large pump that the hydraulic motor to move the machine may not be rated for full flow (mine isn't, have to reduce throttle to drive it around).

A 4 inch cylinder with a 22 GPM would be impressive (and dangerous). A 16 gpm is about right for most, fast enough to not aggravate ya, but not terribly expensive like the larger pumps are. a 8hp is plenty for the 16gpm.

you can get 16 gpm thru 1/2" hoses but don't use 90 deg fittings anywhere. if you go for a larger pump then 3/4" hoses is mandatory.
 
Patrick62 said:
View attachment 244697

I run the parade most years on my splitter. Self propelled is really kewl :rock:

second valve, old rear end, low speed high torque motor, build a front end. somewhere to stand on the contraption. Done :msp_biggrin:

Anyway, the 6hp would be find against the 11gpm pump. A 13.5 would be marginal. One of the issues is that if you run a large pump that the hydraulic motor to move the machine may not be rated for full flow (mine isn't, have to reduce throttle to drive it around).

A 4 inch cylinder with a 22 GPM would be impressive (and dangerous). A 16 gpm is about right for most, fast enough to not aggravate ya, but not terribly expensive like the larger pumps are. a 8hp is plenty for the 16gpm.

you can get 16 gpm thru 1/2" hoses but don't use 90 deg fittings anywhere. if you go for a larger pump then 3/4" hoses is mandatory.
Click to expand...


Got any more pictures of your machine?Nice.
 
Patrick62 said:
View attachment 244697

I run the parade most years on my splitter. Self propelled is really kewl :rock:

second valve, old rear end, low speed high torque motor, build a front end. somewhere to stand on the contraption. Done :msp_biggrin:

Anyway, the 6hp would be find against the 11gpm pump. A 13.5 would be marginal. One of the issues is that if you run a large pump that the hydraulic motor to move the machine may not be rated for full flow (mine isn't, have to reduce throttle to drive it around).

A 4 inch cylinder with a 22 GPM would be impressive (and dangerous). A 16 gpm is about right for most, fast enough to not aggravate ya, but not terribly expensive like the larger pumps are. a 8hp is plenty for the 16gpm.

you can get 16 gpm thru 1/2" hoses but don't use 90 deg fittings anywhere. if you go for a larger pump then 3/4" hoses is mandatory.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information. Ups has been dropping boxes by everyday. Hoping it's all here by Friday. Thinking about the hydro hoses. If I have all my parts and pieces this weekend I hope to for sure do some testing. Hose size is important. My valve is rated for up to 20 gpm, and has 1/2" working ports, and the cylinder has 1/2" npt fittings. Will I gain anything by stepping up to 3/4" hoses with 1/2" fittings on both ends of the hoses? It would restrict the flow at the fitting and I have big assortment of some hoses already with jic female fittings crimped on the ends. As to what hoses cost (1/2" being free, and 3/4" costing an arm) would I gain anything?
 
I will get right on that.... one of these days...

I need to do a full write up, with pics of the critter splitter. Will do in a separate thread.

Anyway, back to the Zeus project:

Hose size... what pump did you settle on? if you went with the 22 gpm you can run the engine at less than 3600 to reduce the flow a bit (and the heat generated). If you are with a 16 (or the smaller ones) then you will be fine with what you got. In fact, I ran a 16 gpm on my 5 inch cylinder for quite awhile. Wasn't gonna set any speed records, but it worked fine. I would stick with 1/2" hoses on this one. 45 deg elbos only, if you need them. Very little gain with 3/4 hose on 1/2 fittings. You can use 3/4 for supply, and return. You can put a filter on the return line if you want. On my machine the return feeds the second valve that runs the drive motor. Do a search on sizing the hydraulic tank. they will say that it should equal the GPM of the pump (mine does) if you don't generate much heat then you can reduce the size some.

Did I read in this thread that you are using a valve with detents both directions?? if so... bad idea, in my not so humble opinion.
Standard log splitter valve is cheaper, has detent on reverse only.

You are much better at running a good weld than I am :msp_smile: That beam and cylinder support will handle 20 tons easily!!

-Pat
 
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My valve has detent in both directions, I can understand a manufacturer not wanting to put it on machines they sale for the liability, but the cylinder doesn't move that fast.Keep your hands out of the way, no problem.
 
No, my valve detent's in the return stroke only. I found a valve on sale the other day and couldn't pass up on it. Pump is a 16 gpm 2 stage. 4"x24" cylinder. Looking for pressures around 3000, but I may leave it at 2500 psi. The motor is a Briggs 1150, 250CC, thats 8-9 hp...The last thing I have to put to bed is the fluid for the tank. I'm gonna leave it alone as to its size, but I have two options, ATF (automatic transmission fluid), or UTF(universal tractor/transmission fluid) for the tank. Which to use? Seems like I mite go with the UTF, its cheaper, and I use it in my tractor. The ATF is dex 3 and I don't have any other use for it.
 
perfect

that is gonna be a great combo. You gonna have 15.7 tons at 2500. Bumps up to 18.84 at 3000
You are no doubt gonna be splitting hard wood which is more taxing than the pine that I got here.

The only reason to use ATF is in colder climates it flows way better. You will be fine with regular tractor oil.

-Pat
 
Go with the UTF,for the price and the fact that you have another use for it. No need to take up more shelf space for yet another vital fluid. If the splitter is sluggish you can always start it, then go get a cup of coffee. By the time you get back, it'll be warm and ready to work.
 
Zeus103363 said:
This part is kinda different but after all the trouble my neighbor had with his hydraulic tank on his splitter with a rust ring just above the fluid level. I live in Louisiana and it is always humid here and common carbon steel will rust real quick
Click to expand...

Boiling the iron in oil. I do it to any tank I build. It works, reason I suggest.


Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2
 
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Glad for the weekend as I got a ton done on the log splitter. I will post some photos of my progress. I did find a problem! I don't know how I screwed this up, but the mountings for the cylinder are 5/8" difference! The wedge end has 3-3/8" and the back of the cylinder measures 4". The obvious fix is to replace the rear 1" plate. Wont take but mabe 2 or 3 hours to repair. If I replace the wedge end, I have about 5 hours in fab time and welding...ain't gonna happen! I read somewhere that the cylinder needs to be straight. The way it is right now it's pushing at a little of a down angle. I don't want to bend the rod, so Im gonna fix that this next weekend. Other than that, got two brackets to weld on, build and mount the motor mount, mount the valve bracket, then I should be ready to strip it down and paint...mabe next saturady evening. I still have to flush out the hydro tank, and fill it up. I did get some hose lengths today so I'm gonna make those up next week. Photos to follow shortly.
 

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