Here are some pics from today

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STLfirewood

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I had a couple trees to take down today. I did 2 jobs. One just had a pine tree. The other had a good size maple a small pine and 2 small notch and flop trees. I included a picture of the "drag zone" to so the clean up. I think I do a good job of cleaning up. I also included a picture of the pine that was rotten. Can you tell me what the stuff coming out of it is. I don;t know a lot about trees and what makes them tick. Please write any comments to help me. Good or bad. The jobs were 35 miles apart. That was the only bad thing.

Scott
 
I also included a picture of the pine that was rotten. Can you tell me what the stuff coming out of it is. I don;t know a lot about trees and what makes them tick. Please write any comments to help me.
The stuff is sap, coming out of a wound. Definitely a weak point:angry: ; you'll want to tread lightly above those points. Inspect them closely for rot and cracks and don't take too much risk with them; tree could have been rigged down using a pulley in another tree.

Why did the owners want the trees down--safety? it looks like they both could have been much more stable if pruned. The pine could have been cleaned and thinned out a bit. The maple had been topped once--was there rot at those forks? Harder to restore topped trees but possible.

Nice pics, nice work, good cleanup is highly valued by many clients. Leave it better than ya found it, right?:)
 
The stuff is sap, coming out of a wound. Definitely a weak point:angry: ; you'll want to tread lightly above those points. Inspect them closely for rot and cracks and don't take too much risk with them; tree could have been rigged down using a pulley in another tree.

Why did the owners want the trees down--safety? it looks like they both could have been much more stable if pruned. The pine could have been cleaned and thinned out a bit. The maple had been topped once--was there rot at those forks? Harder to restore topped trees but possible.

Nice pics, nice work, good cleanup is highly valued by many clients. Leave it better than ya found it, right?:)


The first pine was a bit over 24inches. On the rotten pine the climber wouldn't go past the fork because he said it wasn't safe enough. The top wasn't that big he tied it and we just pulled it out. Had a nice open place to land it. The big maple had some rot where it had been topped before. It was a little tricky because there were no other trees to rig to. The climber said the upper branches weren't safe enough to use to lower branches. I told both homeowners that the bigger pine and the maple could be cleaned up and saved. Both wanted them gone. They were tired of the mess. The person with the maple said they didn't want it to fall during a storm and hit the house. People around here are scared about every tree close to the house because of the storms we have had the last couple of years.

Scott
 
Is that a new type of ball cap that is designed as a helmet? Also looks like the climber only had one tie -in on some of the cuts. I see it's a steel core but a ms200t can cut through it on full rev. Be careful. Otherwise looks like nice work thanks for posting.
 
Im with Dadatwin looks great just didnt have 3 points of attachment. I usually put a rope in up high and use an ascender or use another flip line but make a complete rap around the tree to form a choke hold. The later is kind of a pain but when push comes to shove it can save your can when s**t goes south.
 
I'll chime in too. You posted pic's of less then industry standard practice, take the lumps.:deadhorse:

At least you had 2 hands on in the ones I saw :laugh:
 
I climb with a sharp 200, I use a steelcore, thats it, I tie in with my rope when I come down. It is perfectly legal here to use a single tie if it is has a steelcore. Yes I have knicked them, yes I know you can cut through them, if you try that it is. Strip and chunk removal is mostly what I do, fast and nasty, biggest chunks or logs possible. Straight up and down pine trees, no biggie, ballcaps don't cut it though, wear a hardhat.
 
yeah industry standards here just require one steel core strap....however lately i've been using in two...i had an incident in which I was in a bit of a precarious position...luckily i had not taken off my second strap...it definelty helped my ass out! however carrying two long steel core straps is a little overboard....I'm looking for a cammed ascender like my micrograb that can go both ways, so one long strap for residential work would be good...any suggestions?
 
Thanks for the responce. I'll be the first to admit I know nothing about climbing. I hire a person to do it. I tell him it's his show when he's up there and to let me know what he needs. I will mention the helmet to him and I even have a climbing helmet he can use. I'm all about taking my lumps. That's why I'm here to learn.

Thanks Scott
 
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Got people here the same to, flat out wont wear helmets or chainsaw pants etc.

Trouble is, even if they are contractors, you cop the fine if they mess up. Yes, our Occupational Health and Safety people put the blame fair and square on you the boss.

What happens, over time, you find people who do the right thing. I think helmets are definately one piece I wouldn't work without. The amount of bumps and scratches proves it.

Good pics, dont be disheartened if you get criticized, at least you are one of the people who put pics etc up.

I can tell you now, everyone at some point in a tree could do something safer and better. What does happen to more seasoned climbers is they have predictability and experience, they know what will happen as they've done it a thousand times ... could also be their undoing I suppose.
 
yeah industry standards here just require one steel core strap....however lately i've been using in two...i had an incident in which I was in a bit of a precarious position...luckily i had not taken off my second strap...it definelty helped my ass out! however carrying two long steel core straps is a little overboard....I'm looking for a cammed ascender like my micrograb that can go both ways, so one long strap for residential work would be good...any suggestions?

I rarely break out the steelcore anymore. Im all about light weight in a tree. The solution I have come up with is a simple one, as most good ones are. I climb in a New Tribe ultra-light. My work positioning lanyard is simply an 8ft piece of Yale XTC fire. (I like the bright color) with an aluminum rope stap at one end tied in a fishermans. I run that through my left D on the saddle. Tie a Distel hitch onto the lanyard using 8mm kernmantle and anchor it to my D with two fishermans. The soft D of the ultra-light is small enough I can pull slack through and advance the distel, but when its under tention I can release it just like my climbing hitch. No need for a micro pully. The whole set up costs about 20 bucks. With that I am Always tied in in a second place. either above me, or just below me with a climb line anchored on a running bowline to the spare and a biner rigged with a munter hitch in case I accidentally cut through my lanyard. I dont know if I have any pics on here of that, but I will take a few for ya tomorrow and post them if you like.

Kenn:monkey:
 
Here is an elm I did yesterday. I know it looks like im cutting into what Im tied into, but its a co-dom spar. Im tied into one, cutting the other. Notice the brain bucket. Hint Hint.


Kenn
 
Here is a little update. I had the climber come out and do some work yesterday and take some trees out. I mentioned to him uing a helmet. He said ya she should he had just never got around to getting one. I told him I had one and he could use it. So he said great and put it on. So Now the climber is using a helmet and happy to do so. Thanks for input guys. Scott
 
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