HF grinder - user report

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After a week (or more) of fooling around and being sidetracked I finally sharped my first chain on that HF grinder.

Haven't cut anything yet but by feel and what I can see, it did a far, far better job than I have been doing by hand and the teeth are all the same length as checked with a mic. A few comments on it.

The tooth indexer (a flat bar pivoting on a stud) on mine is very sloppy, enough so that I have to hold it over with my thumb when sharping the left side teeth, it hits fine on the right side ones. I don't see any simple way to correct that and it is just a minor nuisanced anyway.

The depth and tooth stop screw adjusters could, IMO, use a finer thread. Doesn't take much rotation on the screw to make a good amount of difference at the tooth. Again, a minor problem.

The power switch for me is in an awkward place but once started it stays running through the job so again, just a very minor complaint.

The biggest problem I had setting it up was finding a light so I could see the wheel in contact with the tooth to adjust before grinding. Finally wound up with a clamp on desk light, the one with the swing arms and spring tensioners. Works great but I had to mount it overhead and the springs, in that position, weren't strong enough. Current adjustment is shade-tree - grab the baling wire and either undo or add a wrap around a screw.

Once up an running I did find a danger. Most of my chains have two cutters in a row on the same side. I was just smoking along: unclamp, move two, clamp, grind, repeat. Only takes a few seconds. Too few as it turned out as I managed to hit the wrong tooth when I came to that doublet. Just nicked it but it isn't going to be doing it's share until I sharp again one or two more times. :angry: Maybe I need to get in the habit of starting with the doubles.

All in all I am very pleased with it. For sure I will be sharping chains more often.

One big drawback: I mentioned it at the morning BS session at breakfast in town this morning. Instantly had two requests for sharping jobs. :givebeer:

Harry K
 
I screwed mine to a piece of 1x4 to make it easier to clamp to bench. I set it up and found exact same problem as turnkey with the tooth indexer, cheap, loose, not wide enough for the one side. Minor inconvenience easily dealt with the few times I will use it as I got the thing only for rough sharpening rocked chains before I finish them by hand. Normal sharpening I will still do by hand. First, I enjoy doing it, second this unit doesn't seem precision enough to do a better job than I've been doing by hand anyway. I played with it on a worn busted chain to set it up. It works... enough said. Waiting for a rocked chain so I can actually use the thing.
 
Hey turnkey,

I just got one of the HF sharpeners and my grinding wheel has a wobble when it spins. Did yours do this? I can compensate, but I was wondering if it was somewhat "normal" with something this inexpensive. I don't plan on using it for the fine edge, but I would like to be able to take off a minimum amount of material after a big rock or imbedded nail.

Brad
 
wheel

There should be no wobble in the wheel.Take it off and lay it on something flat.If the wheel is flat,mount it back on.Might have been cocked alittle bit.If not the shaft might be bent.
Ed
 
Try a washer

I had the same problem with the indexer. I unscrewed it, put a thin washer on the inside and it seems to center the indexer better. Also helped a bit when somebody on this site clued me in on how to adjust the chain clamp.

:popcorn:
 
Bama: No, no wobble. You might have a bit of crud on the mounting flange or as someone said a bad disc or bent shaft.

Treeco: Thanks. I am wondering why I didn't think of that. I'll go back and hit it with a file tomorrow.

I have mine fastened to a post holding up the garage roof. Have it a about breast hieght and it works out great that way, no bending over to see what's happening, make adjustments, etc.

Harry K
 
I used mine last week to clean up a rocked out 36" chain. Didn't do to bad of a job for what it is. I noticed the same problems that Harry is talking about. I little washer on the chain stop pivot shaft will take some of the play out of it. IT is ok, as long as you are aware of the possible problems with it. There is some flex and inconsistancy in the grinder if you pull too hard to one side or the other. Like I said, it works ok for what it is.

I have mine mounted to a piece of angle iron that I mount in a bench vise when I need it. That way it isn't wasting workbench space or wall space.

-Steve
 
Another report

I sharpened a chain for real this afternoon. Took awhile to get set up but I put my sharpener on a piece of plywood and clamped it onto my Black and Decker workmate bench. Once I got set up it went as fast as hand grinding and the saw seems to cut well after I finished. I usually remove the bar to clean the saw after cutting so I don't think there is much downside to using this little grinder if it will hold up to the task.:popcorn:
 
I have sharppend the chains on my 192t, whatever they are again, with it. No problems that I noticed.
Andy
 
I have one of them as well, I use it to get the cutters all to the same length (or close) then I finish off with a file as the wheel on mine does not seem to give the correct grind for 3/8, I believe the wheel is to thin for 3/8. Mine after using it the first time which went fine, then next time I went to use it it was running backwards so I had to take the cover off and reverse the leads to the motor and I haven't had any problems sense, I don't understand why it started running backwards but it was an easy fix, it does OK for what it is, but I would still like to get a better one, but being a weekend warrior at best it is hard to lay out that kind of $$$.
 
I got a $29 HF special and it also has a crooked tooth indexer. Easy fix to make. If you look at the underside, curl it is not aligned at the edges of the bar. Remove the tooth indexer from the plastic mount and it is easy to twist the curl so the bar will align with the edge. Check it on the mount and see how it now aligns to the center of the chain track. While it's off tighten the curl in the vise and do a little round file work and it will fit like it should have.
 
I know this is an old thread and that BAMA may never see this, BUT>>>

When I got mine it had a wobble also. I checked the stone and it was true.

It turned out to be the plastic shaft that was not true. It is hard to explain.

Where the Stone touches the shaft on the inside, opposite the Nut that holds it on.

I built a jig to hold a VERY!! sharp wood chisel and turned this surface flat, much like turning a brake rotor.

Mine now runs with no wobble.
 
lostone said:
I have one of them as well, I use it to get the cutters all to the same length (or close) then I finish off with a file as the wheel on mine does not seem to give the correct grind for 3/8, I believe the wheel is to thin for 3/8. Mine after using it the first time which went fine, then next time I went to use it it was running backwards so I had to take the cover off and reverse the leads to the motor and I haven't had any problems sense, I don't understand why it started running backwards but it was an easy fix, it does OK for what it is, but I would still like to get a better one, but being a weekend warrior at best it is hard to lay out that kind of $$$.


I thought what the heck and bought the HF grinder. I found the wheel undercuts a 3/8 tooth too much, the face is smooth and the grind is cool, but I cut all hard woods and need all the tooth cutting. I had the same problem with the indexer and also put a washer behind the bolt. For the price it s worth what it does; I am sure they are mass produced and probably with no quality control so expect any odd thing to show up like wheel wobble and bent indexers, I was lucky and received one in good shape, but I ordered new wheels and they were back ordered another bad habit HF has. I am back to hand filing, unless I can find a thicker wheel for the HF.:monkey: :help:
 
Hf Grinder Report

I have also jumped on board the Hf Bandwagon. As I set it up the head was very loose. A crack on the bottom mounting bracket was the culprit. A small hose clamp corrected this anomaly.The indexing was very sloppy. I took a drill aand went from the hollow side towards the front. A 1/4 inch bolt about 1 1/4 inches long along with a self locking nut cleared this problem.The plastic shaft would not allow the clip to remain on. The bolt was fitted with the index arm and now is great! The wheel is now out of true.A replacement will be ordered Monday. The main shaft that allows the head to move is still sloppy.I will get a bolt and several thin washers to put between the head and the base around the spring and we should be good to go.
From the small modifications that I have made,this thing just might work! I have been practicing with it and have had a limited amount of success.
Ken
 
The wheel that comes with the HF grinder is .125 thick (1/8")
As I read... the rule of thumb is to use a wheel thats thickness is the same as the diameter of the file used for that chain. The stock 1/8" wheel is the wrong size for .325 and 3/8 chain! The HF grinder is a copy of one of the better grinders, so wheels of the correct thickness are available.
Another issue with the HF grinder is that it is not reversable like the name brand units. Reversing the rotation makes the wheel grind from outside to inside on the cutters on both sides of the chain. Not reversing leaves a burr on the outside of the cutting edges. A reversing switch could be added without much trouble and would be worthwhile.
My reading here tells me the hot ticket is to file sharpen the chain maybe 3 times then use the grinder to get everything back to the same lengths and angles, grinding every time makes for a short chain life, too much material being taken off.
I found a old grinding disk, one of those cheapies used on the general purpose hand grinders, dressed to a square edge in the HF grinder, will do the rakers very nicely. Makes them all the same height.
The small Oregon grinder is pretty much the same design and the operator manual is online which sheds a lot more light on how to use the grinder than the HF manual.
 
Sparky_NY said:
The wheel that comes with the HF grinder is .125 thick (1/8")
As I read... the rule of thumb is to use a wheel thats thickness is the same as the diameter of the file used for that chain. The stock 1/8" wheel is the wrong size for .325 and 3/8 chain! The HF grinder is a copy of one of the better grinders, so wheels of the correct thickness are available.
Another issue with the HF grinder is that it is not reversable like the name brand units. Reversing the rotation makes the wheel grind from outside to inside on the cutters on both sides of the chain. Not reversing leaves a burr on the outside of the cutting edges. A reversing switch could be added without much trouble and would be worthwhile.
My reading here tells me the hot ticket is to file sharpen the chain maybe 3 times then use the grinder to get everything back to the same lengths and angles, grinding every time makes for a short chain life, too much material being taken off.
I found a old grinding disk, one of those cheapies used on the general purpose hand grinders, dressed to a square edge in the HF grinder, will do the rakers very nicely. Makes them all the same height.
The small Oregon grinder is pretty much the same design and the operator manual is online which sheds a lot more light on how to use the grinder than the HF manual.

I have two wheels on order now. The confirmation said nothing about back order so...

I have seen several references to dressing the wheel. What is used for that job? I ran a drill press for 10 years and used a wheel dresser but that was _huge_ compared to these little discs.

Harry K
 
turnkey4099 said:
I have two wheels on order now. The confirmation said nothing about back order so...

I have seen several references to dressing the wheel. What is used for that job? I ran a drill press for 10 years and used a wheel dresser but that was _huge_ compared to these little discs.

Harry K

Harry,

Go to an industrial abrasives/sales & purchase a "Carborundum Stone" for hand dressing grinding wheels. It's approx 1.00" square x 4 inches & will last for many years.
A trick to dressing the correct rad. is to use a piece of bristol board (or thin cardboard) and hold it against the spinning wheel. This will produce a clean edge reproduction of what rad. you have actually dressed on the wheel.
You can check the bristol board with rad. gauge this way, without stopping the wheel or scrapping whatever it is you're grinding.
Paul
 

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