High altitude cutting

[Ranger-692]

I jump between 4000 and 9500 feet where I cut and MTronic has been a great feature for me. After a couple cuts it’s tuned perfectly no screwing around with screwdrivers for 10 minutes every time I’m out.

Unless the Mac’s come with! Worth it. Haha

 

[Woodsman_26]

I jump between 4000 and 9500 feet where I cut and MTronic has been a great feature for me. After a couple cuts it’s tuned perfectly no screwing around with screwdrivers for 10 minutes every time I’m out.

Unless the Mac’s come with! Worth it. Haha

Good info, thanks ranger-692

 

[Ranger-692]

My plan is to fix the ms362 and keep it as well as my 034. All I have ever had is old bear up saws which is fine. I have learned to work on them some and haven't had to worry about an old beat up saw. Since my cutting load is up at 50-60 cords and I don't mind felling larger diameter trees (bigger than 20") on the regular, I was researching new saws and wanted to go the husky route. At times I have found the ms361 to be underpowered with a 20" bar and full chisel. I'm wondering if I should look into more power for felling and just fix one of my old saws for bucking. I haven't mentioned that I previously bought a brand new Stihl 391 and was so disappointed I returned it. It was no stronger than my ms361 in the forest or at '7800. Not to mention it was a bear to start and I couldnt keep it running for the hole first tank. So I'm pretty fed up with Stihl as of now. Looking for advice and your own situations.

If I may add: for me the Stihl 400C(comes standard M Tronic) with a 25” lightweight bar is the ultimate interior mountain west saw. Weighs about the same as your 361/362 and tons more power. I also own a 362 but the 400 with a 5” longer bar and full skip smokes it, almost feels less fatiguing because it cuts faster. Maybe that’s subconscious bias cause it cost more $$$ though who knows. One man‘s opinion.

 

[bwalker]

If I may add: for me the Stihl 400C(comes standard M Tronic) with a 25” lightweight bar is the ultimate interior mountain west saw. Weighs about the same as your 361/362 and tons more power. I also own a 362 but the 400 with a 5” longer bar and full skip smokes it, almost feels less fatiguing because it cuts faster. Maybe that’s subconscious bias cause it cost more $$$ though who knows. One man‘s opinion.

Thanks for that testimonial.. I actually am waiting on a 400c to come in.

 

[Woodsman_26]

If I may add: for me the Stihl 400C(comes standard M Tronic) with a 25” lightweight bar is the ultimate interior mountain west saw. Weighs about the same as your 361/362 and tons more power. I also own a 362 but the 400 with a 5” longer bar and full skip smokes it, almost feels less fatiguing because it cuts faster. Maybe that’s subconscious bias cause it cost more $$$ though who knows. One man‘s opinion.

I grew up with my dad's farm boss and it lasted over 20 years of heavy seasonal use. It was awesome and my dad would tackle huge oaks nearing the '3 base size with a 16" bar. I'm not sold anymore on Stihl with my experiences with them. I will however look into it since I have not. I have only had experience with the larger Husky pro line and then the homeowner Stihl line as well as my ms361. I have used a 70 or 80 cc husky pro maybe 7 years ago on some monster red oaks and it ate right through the '3 + trunk.

 

[Ranger-692]

Thanks for that testimonial.. I actually am waiting on a 400c to come in.

If you haven’t got one on order and just waiting I’ve seen a bunch in Billings lately. Murdoch’s, Kings Ace, RDO, etc

 

[hillwilliam]

I grew up with my dad's farm boss and it lasted over 20 years of heavy seasonal use. It was awesome and my dad would tackle huge oaks nearing the '3 base size with a 16" bar. I'm not sold anymore on Stihl with my experiences with them. I will however look into it since I have not. I have only had experience with the larger Husky pro line and then the homeowner Stihl line as well as my ms361. I have used a 70 or 80 cc husky pro maybe 7 years ago on some monster red oaks and it ate right through the '3 + trunk.

I've worked on saws a LOT and personally don't like the autotunes, and not just because I'm an old coot. The injected Stihl 500i looks like it's gonna be a helluva saw, but that's a lot of money. I'd recommend a Husky 372 or a 365 (which I could turn into a 372 in a jiffy). I run big ol' ported Pioneers myself, but they haven't been made for years.

Meanwhile, I have a Husky 455 with a new top end I would let go of cheap, and it might do you until you get a pro-level saw. I'm in Del Norte.

 

[old CB]

Having started out with McCulloch saws in the 1970s, I graduated to Husqvarna around 2000(?) with a 455 Rancher. That saw served me well. Then graduated to a 359, which also served. And I love my 372, and my 346 for limbing and small wood.

But a working autotune is pretty cool.

Another thing I suspect you know--everyone is all about running long bars. From what I see loaded on your pickup, you cut roughly the same kind of wood we have here, for which a 20" bar is all you need. (Lord, I dropped some big ones back in the day with a 16" bar on a Mac 10-10.) 20" bar means a whole lot fewer teeth to file, but still all you need in this part of the world.

 

[Woodsman_26]

I've worked on saws a LOT and personally don't like the autotunes, and not just because I'm an old coot. The injected Stihl 500i looks like it's gonna be a helluva saw, but that's a lot of money. I'd recommend a Husky 372 or a 365 (which I could turn into a 372 in a jiffy). I run big ol' ported Pioneers myself, but they haven't been made for years.

Meanwhile, I have a Husky 455 with a new top end I would let go of cheap, and it might do you until you get a pro-level saw. I'm in Del Norte.

Hey there hillwilliam! You are literally right around the corner from me. I appreciate the offer but I just got someone to trade a 450 for one of my farm animals. I haven't used it yet but I'll sharpen the chain in the morning and try her out. It supposedly only has 2 cords cut on it..looks pretty new too. I'll use it for now and see if it handles the cutting load I'll put on it. Of course this month and next are my lowest cutting months haha keep in touch hillwilliam

 

[Woodsman_26]

Having started out with McCulloch saws in the 1970s, I graduated to Husqvarna around 2000(?) with a 455 Rancher. That saw served me well. Then graduated to a 359, which also served. And I love my 372, and my 346 for limbing and small wood.

But a working autotune is pretty cool.

Another thing I suspect you know--everyone is all about running long bars. From what I see loaded on your pickup, you cut roughly the same kind of wood we have here, for which a 20" bar is all you need. (Lord, I dropped some big ones back in the day with a 16" bar on a Mac 10-10.) 20" bar means a whole lot fewer teeth to file, but still all you need in this part of the world.

I like that info. Interestingly enough all I have been running for the last decade is 20" bar on everything lol the ms361 and the 034. I think the 18 on the 034 would be nice too. I am leaning towards that in the future having an 16 or 18 on my smaller saw and the 20" on my larger.

 

[bwalker]

Having started out with McCulloch saws in the 1970s, I graduated to Husqvarna around 2000(?) with a 455 Rancher. That saw served me well. Then graduated to a 359, which also served. And I love my 372, and my 346 for limbing and small wood.

But a working autotune is pretty cool.

Another thing I suspect you know--everyone is all about running long bars. From what I see loaded on your pickup, you cut roughly the same kind of wood we have here, for which a 20" bar is all you need. (Lord, I dropped some big ones back in the day with a 16" bar on a Mac 10-10.) 20" bar means a whole lot fewer teeth to file, but still all you need in this part of the world.

Long bars are popular her in the west because our common woods are very soft. A 60cc saw will pull a 28" just fine in most cases in our wood. The longer bar is nice when bucking fire wood as you don't have to bend over as much or get on your knees.
When I lived in the upper mid west a 60cc saw was a 20" bar and less proposition IMO.

 

[lobsterlogger]

I live and cut in the hills above Boulder. Live at 6400 ft and cut anywhere up to 8500'. I have old school Husqvarna saws--346, 372 (and Dolmar 7900s and Stihl 200t), so I'm accustomed to tuning according to temperature and elevation.

Had an early version (2013?) Husky 550 which was problematic for the autotune, and I sold it to someone down near sea level. I believe the later versions of autotune are improved, but have yet to try one up here. I have a 562 (autotune) at my NY camp--450' elevation--and I love that saw. Whether it would perform as well up in this country I can't say. I'd talk to a dealer in your area, and ask if they're doing well with the newer autotune saws.

Back when I had my 550, I took it to Longmont (Mac Equipment--good people) to see if they could troubleshoot it. At the time they said they'd had so much trouble with the autotune that they returned a pallet load of saws to Husqvarna. But I think things have improved since then.

The local Husky shop here said the first 2 generations of 550xp and 555xp were junk. He claims he thought about ending his Husky franchse agreement and going a different route. The current crop is rock solid. So he said. I don't own one but he claims the new 550's will kill a 346xp. Not even close so he says.

 

[Harmon]

Woodsman 26 it sounds like it aint the brand of saw thats lettin you down but if you have been cutting that much wood each year - what was the last year of the ms 361 in the US? 2008? and an 034 like late '90s? they are/ were good saws and worth rebuilding... but a guy needs something that runs, as in tomorrow, I myself have my 361 in little pieces in a tote maybe just to force myself to buy something reliable for this year. It started spittin out muffler screws, of all things and the next thing I knew I had a 461. I mean if there were Husqvarnas for sale here I might even try one, but it would be a mail order deal in my neck of the woods.

 

[bwalker]

If you haven’t got one on order and just waiting I’ve seen a bunch in Billings lately. Murdoch’s, Kings Ace, RDO, etc

RDO doesnt have one, one of the Ace stores does, but woukd rather not deal with that particular store and we don't have a Murdochs. Closest one is in Livingston I believe.

 

[sand sock]

it s either flooded cause you didnt hear teh kick and adjust the switch, to half start. or and i think this is it. you need a $13 fuel line. that runs from the fuel filter to the carb. the 361 is the last of teh good old school saws. you need to keep it running for as long as possible. the husky 562 is the equiv of 361, that 455 is giving half the value of teh saw away.

check the muffler vent screen also.

 

[Woodsman_26]

it s either flooded cause you didnt hear teh kick and adjust the switch, to half start. or and i think this is it. you need a $13 fuel line. that runs from the fuel filter to the carb. the 361 is the last of teh good old school saws. you need to keep it running for as long as possible. the husky 562 is the equiv of 361, that 455 is giving half the value of teh saw away.

check the muffler vent screen also.

Thanks for the info. Yes I haven't tried the fuel line yet. I am going to go through the saw and get some new parts on her here next month when I get my shop table set up in my storage container we just got. Its frustrating needing to work on something and have nowhere to do it at but have the knowledge. I have checked the muffler screen though and it was good. I have always liked the 361 when it was running, every 4x4 trip I have taken in the past 5 years I had her with me in the back and have pulled her out on several occasions to clear dead fall on the trail.

 

[hillwilliam]

Hey there hillwilliam! You are literally right around the corner from me. I appreciate the offer but I just got someone to trade a 450 for one of my farm animals. I haven't used it yet but I'll sharpen the chain in the morning and try her out. It supposedly only has 2 cords cut on it..looks pretty new too. I'll use it for now and see if it handles the cutting load I'll put on it. Of course this month and next are my lowest cutting months haha keep in touch hillwilliam

The few autotunes I've run would go like a turpentine cat if they worked right, and they were fun to use. I think they tuned themselves too lean, though, at least at higher altitudes, When I worked at a Husky shop, the autotunes that came in with problems were a nightmare.

If I had to buy a saw for myself now, I'd probably have to get something used and isn't currently manufactured. A Stihl 046/ MS460 is a good saw for sure, and the basic 372 is really good too. I had a number of Jonsereds when I cut timber for a living, and certain ones are great saws. I'm glad I don't have to buy a saw now.

Maybe we'll get together and play with saws some day.

 

[Ted Jenkins]

There is no short cut for a well set up high altitude saw. Why you do not have have four or five saws for the correct altitude seems unusual. One or two saws for 9,000 feet and above with the rest for 7,000 feet and lower. Auto tine will not tune any saw properly as with respect to altitude. All they do is adjust the carburetor so the saw will live. A high altitude saw needs compression at or near 10:1 or maybe 200 PSI. Timing needs to be advanced at least five degrees. My saws almost perform the same at higher altitudes then at lower elevations. I would never other than a small start up session run a high altitude saw at 5 or 6,000 feet or lower. Thanks

 

[3000 FPS]

I live at 5000 ft and I cut anywhere from 8000 to 10000 ft. All my saws are carburetor only. If I need to tune one it only takes few minutes. Big deal. The problem with these new electronic injection saws is finding people who know how to work on them and sooner or later they will need it.
I think you are better off learning something about your carbureted saws so you can repair and adjust them when needed then you are with one of the autotune ones.

 

[Woodsman_26]

There is no short cut for a well set up high altitude saw. Why you do not have have four or five saws for the correct altitude seems unusual. One or two saws for 9,000 feet and above with the rest for 7,000 feet and lower. Auto tine will not tune any saw properly as with respect to altitude. All they do is adjust the carburetor so the saw will live. A high altitude saw needs compression at or near 10:1 or maybe 200 PSI. Timing needs to be advanced at least five degrees. My saws almost perform the same at higher altitudes then at lower elevations. I would never other than a small start up session run a high altitude saw at 5 or 6,000 feet or lower. Thanks

That's an interesting idea on a couple or few different saws for different elevations.. I have never been able to afford all that much Since I live at '7800 and cut at both this elevation and above 9k ft All the time it might make sense to have one set up for the lower property and one or 2 set up for the high elevation.

There is no short cut for a well set up high altitude saw. Why you do not have have four or five saws for the correct altitude seems unusual. One or two saws for 9,000 feet and above with the rest for 7,000 feet and lower. Auto tine will not tune any saw properly as with respect to altitude. All they do is adjust the carburetor so the saw will live. A high altitude saw needs compression at or near 10:1 or maybe 200 PSI. Timing needs to be advanced at least five degrees. My saws almost perform the same at higher altitudes then at lower elevations. I would never other than a small start up session run a high altitude saw at 5 or 6,000 feet or lower. Thanks

Interesting idea on the multi saw set up. I havent had the extra money for multiple saws other than what I have now. I like it though, makes sense.