flatpikr
ArboristSite Operative
:angrysoapbox:
high rakers vs. low rakers
- Thread starter injun joe
- Start date
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:angrysoapbox:
flatpikr
ArboristSite Operative
I use a dremel / stone combination to reduce the depth gauges. I just stick with the profile as it exists on a new chain.
Crofter
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have played a bit with raker profile and looked at different factory profiles. I think that how you shape the nose of the raker can make a big difference depending on how you are cutting. Bob L shows a straight fronted raker in his pictures as opposed the the now more common "bullet" front end that projects a lot further ahead of the front rivet.
leaving a big flat area after you have taken the raker down limits how much it can dig into the wood. I find if I taper and blend it in as shown in some of the nice previous diagrams that you get a more flexible feel. In other words a bit more push will make it dig a bit better but the big flat surface does not respond as well at the same clearance setting. This is just center of the bar cutting; over the nose and the shape becomes more critical.
When it comes to bore cutting the shape of the nose profile becomes a lot more important and also for kickback response. Take two factory chains that look very similar, Carlton and Windsor (now only found rebadged) The windsor will bore easier as the bullet nose does not rise as much to reduce raker clearance when it bends around the nose of the bar. To get the Carlton to bore or cut well when the bar is buried you have to work the area down over the nose of the rakers especially so as the chain wears back. Merely flat topping the raker will limit you for any cutting near the nose of the bar.
Oregon LP uses a virtually non bullet fron raker protected by a sloped guard link and it will bore readily and still have good anti kickback. It is difficult to do a good CONSISTENT shaping of the nose freehand and you can readily feel the chatter when boring if you have taken one or two rakers down a bit too far on the front even though they are all set even top clearance with a guage.
leaving a big flat area after you have taken the raker down limits how much it can dig into the wood. I find if I taper and blend it in as shown in some of the nice previous diagrams that you get a more flexible feel. In other words a bit more push will make it dig a bit better but the big flat surface does not respond as well at the same clearance setting. This is just center of the bar cutting; over the nose and the shape becomes more critical.
When it comes to bore cutting the shape of the nose profile becomes a lot more important and also for kickback response. Take two factory chains that look very similar, Carlton and Windsor (now only found rebadged) The windsor will bore easier as the bullet nose does not rise as much to reduce raker clearance when it bends around the nose of the bar. To get the Carlton to bore or cut well when the bar is buried you have to work the area down over the nose of the rakers especially so as the chain wears back. Merely flat topping the raker will limit you for any cutting near the nose of the bar.
Oregon LP uses a virtually non bullet fron raker protected by a sloped guard link and it will bore readily and still have good anti kickback. It is difficult to do a good CONSISTENT shaping of the nose freehand and you can readily feel the chatter when boring if you have taken one or two rakers down a bit too far on the front even though they are all set even top clearance with a guage.
