Holzfforma G660 Stihl MS660

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
:oops:

Besides all the rest going on in top of that cylinder. Anyone else notice the sparkplug? Did you tune for milling? Most guys I know that mill 32:1 good FD oils and rich tune milling.
Milled with 066 50:1 golden spectro. All l've ever used in saws/dirt bikes since the 1970s

Tune the saw in the cut.

5:4 cherry.jpg
 
Don't feel too bad. I've got an 064 with an OEM piston and cylinder that's in the same condition, and likely for a similar reason. I will be rebuilding it, but I was working on an +60" oak at the time and needed a saw immediately. That's how I wound up with my G660.

Honestly, if you were running it lean with that mix, it's probably best that you trashed the top end of a $300 saw instead of a $1500 saw. I'd look at this as a blessing in disguise and say that you made a wise purchase to begin with. No disrespect intended or implied.

It's kinda hard to compare a burned up 30 year old saw to a brand new saw that never made it through its first tree.
 
I built a Farmertec MS660 from a kit (same as G660) for milling. I run it a 36" bar with 25:1 mix. I have milled 30" red oak and 24" hickory without issue. The higher oil content in the fuel definitely helps keep the engine cooler. Milling is the hardest thing a saw can do in my opinion because it is running full throttle for long periods of time without cooling breaks. I love the saw I built and have milled over a dozen logs with it. Also, I made an auxiliary oiler for the end of the end of the bar to help with chain lubrication.
 
Some good info here.. some bad.. pretty much par for course... we've put years of milling on clone saws.. from 28 to 72" bars all in eastern hardwood.. in general the hlic carb has been as reliable as the walbro models.. i say that aftet hands on with a few hundred of these saws... custom built clones are hands down better than the prebuilt saws.. although the prebuilt saws have improved over the last 4 years... we run 40:1 in everything from day one.. no issues... oil boiling off the case is something i have never seen and a massive red flag... never seen it doing long runs in summer pulling a 72... prebuilt saws need all bolts torqued... to save a grand you will have a few checks to do... if you need help you can hit me via bulletproofsaws on FB and i have clone saw help vids on YouTube under the same name.. good luck
 
It's kinda hard to compare a burned up 30 year old saw to a brand new saw that never made it through its first tree.
True, but that OEM top end probably had less than 20 hours on it since it was installed. I put a new chain (28" .404 full comp) on it shortly after it was rebuilt, and I've only used about 25% of it. The saw lost its tune while cutting a log that was roughly 48" across, and I didn't catch it. Wouldn't have mattered if it was a 30 year old saw, a new MS660, or a Chinese clone, the result would have been the same.

My G660 (new, power head only, fully assembled, arrived in 2 business days) on the other hand, cost me less than the 064 (with a 28" .404 Oregon bar and chain) which I bought used for well under $400), and the G660 has taken a lot more abuse. I picked up the G660 last spring, and ran the dog snot out of it over the summer. I've run around 12 gallons of mix through the G660 since I bought it 9 months ago. Most of that was pulling a 42" full skip chain on days that were over 95 degrees. Aside from the normal initial upgrades (part replacements) that all happened in the first 1/4 tank, it hasn't missed a beat. It's a heavy saw, and yes there are a few parts that NEED to be replaced before it's ever started, but for what it is, I have no complaints. Maybe the Chinese carb is what caused the OPs issue, but they can be purchased with a Walboro carb for an extra Benjamin.
 
Some good info here.. some bad.. pretty much par for course... we've put years of milling on clone saws.. from 28 to 72" bars all in eastern hardwood.. in general the hlic carb has been as reliable as the walbro models.. i say that aftet hands on with a few hundred of these saws... custom built clones are hands down better than the prebuilt saws.. although the prebuilt saws have improved over the last 4 years... we run 40:1 in everything from day one.. no issues... oil boiling off the case is something i have never seen and a massive red flag... never seen it doing long runs in summer pulling a 72... prebuilt saws need all bolts torqued... to save a grand you will have a few checks to do... if you need help you can hit me via bulletproofsaws on FB and i have clone saw help vids on YouTube under the same name.. good luck
Not to get off topic, but do you have anything on line that's not on FB? I don't do Facebook. I don't need another saw, but I've had a few people ask about them and would be happy to point them your way. Totally agree that one of these saws that was assembled by a knowledgeable, experienced craftsman would be a better way to go than fresh off the boat, assuming the price was in the right ball park.

Also, do get into any of the smaller saws (50/60cc)?
 
Not to get off topic, but do you have anything on line that's not on FB? I don't do Facebook. I don't need another saw, but I've had a few people ask about them and would be happy to point them your way. Totally agree that one of these saws that was assembled by a knowledgeable, experienced craftsman would be a better way to go than fresh off the boat, assuming the price was in the right ball park.

Also, do get into any of the smaller saws (50/60cc)?
US dealer I trust to order from www.bluesaws.com If you dont know how to check saws over before using. Ask Jes or Scott for the preflight inspection and of running tuning etc.
 
US dealer I trust to order from www.bluesaws.com If you dont know how to check saws over before using. Ask Jes or Scott for the preflight inspection and of running tuning etc.
Thanks! Unfortunately, I learned most of it the hard way last spring. It's amazing how important it is to have the right temper on the e-clip on the end of the drive shaft.... I really needed a high output oil pump for that 42" bar anyway... :) Still good to talk to folks that deal with them all the time and have a complete check list though.

Thanks again,
Mark
 
The saw lost its tune while cutting a log that was roughly 48" across, and I didn't catch it. Wouldn't have mattered if it was a 30 year old saw, a new MS660, or a Chinese clone, the result would have been the same.


Unless you're running THAT close to the line of barely rich enough and lean, no saw should lose its tune JUST LIKE THAT unless there were existing issues with the carb and or leaks.
 
chinesium had nothing to do with this failure atleast you burned up a cheaper saw.

to hot, to lean, and not enough oil will cook any 2 stroke engine.

I'd throw a holzfforma big bore kit in it at this point and port it if u don't want to port it you might be better off with a standard bore as the port timing can be all over the place.
 
MJ_Fields, I am trying to use quote function here, but not sure if it is working. To answer your question, yes we are off FB too, I just use that as an easy path for a lot of folks. I DESPISE FB as well, and hate that I use it at all...... We have a chat function at www.bluesaws.com - I did not post that initially as I did not know if I could if it was allowed by the rules of the site. I have lurked here forever, nut only recently made a post or two. I think I prefer this to facebook by a long shot.... My youtube shows some saw stuff, milling, etc... I am NO VIDEO guru, so the vids are likely painful to watch... I'm trying though....Feel free to hit me via here, bluesaws or any way that works. And also I do all different clone saws of all sizes in addition to regular customer repairs that come into the shop... Just updated HO-Oiler inventory this week. I am real bad with keeping inventory updated.... More fun to go mess with saws I guess.....

Scott
 
Unless you're running THAT close to the line of barely rich enough and lean, no saw should lose its tune JUST LIKE THAT unless there were existing issues with the carb and or leaks.
Agreed. I'm not trying to say that the saw lost it's toon all of the sudden. I just didn't notice that it was running lean until it was way too late Does it have an air leak somewhere? Maybe. Haven't had a chance to dig back into it yet. Either way, in hind site, there were indicators that something was wrong, but I failed to take notice. It was user error, and that was my original point. The OP made a mistake and it cost him the top end on a relatively inexpensive Chinese clone. I made a similar set of mistakes and it cost me the top end on my Stihl 064 that didn't have many hours since its last rebuild. Now I check my saws more often...
 

Latest posts

Back
Top