Husqvarna 61 Rancher issues

[honda4life]

Hello,

Got the saw from my grandfather thus has some emotional value.
I have an equal powered saw but lighter, it is juist easy to have 16" and 20" bar and not have to change bars and chain when needed (so absolutely no reason to must have this saw).
It is fun trying to repair and learn your own stuff and I don't care to spent time on it or occasional failure.

I tuned the saw in big wood, it ran great but died shortly after.

What's your opinion about:

Scratch, it does not look deep (I know it's not that good).
The saw has a lot of compression, very hard to pull over when tired at the end of the day.


Is it normal to have this wear here on the flywheel:


The worm gear from the oiler is also molten (but is still pumping oil as it should).
Does this give me the false compression feeling? Should be replaced anyway.


See the choke axis, it is worn out from vibrations, so probably some air can leak in here (but won't affect the A/F ratio).


I am not sure if the ignition does not go bad once hot, don't like the tape on the bottom so need to check that.


Improvised pressure test with bicycle valve and compressor looks okay


I repaired this crankcase seal in the past, it went to the inside and leaked some air on the outer ring.
Is in place with heat resistant sealant. (yes could replace it)

 

[honda4life]

Some more pictures:

Oil seal on cluch side looks OK


Black bearings, carbon?


So... a lot to repair but where to start?

 

[Mad Professor]

Should have started with a pres/vac test before teardown.

Flywheel and oil pump look like no cleaning in a long time. Grime and debris would do that.

Looks like a rebuild.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I recall rebuilding my Husqvarna 61 classic ('97 anniversary edition) with new ignition modules. I bought both and only had to replace one of them. After that, it ran fine. It is amazing how many problems with chainsaws are electrical in nature.
After the restoration, it runs fine today. A little heavy, but other than that, no complaints from this guy.

 

[Agrarian]

Be sure to remove the worm gear washer from the melted mess before pitching the worm gear.

 

[Agrarian]

With that much wear on those components, I would replace the crank seals and associated o-rings on general principle.

The flywheel is fine, something got in there briefly and dinged the fins.

You can get a sense how bad the cylinder scratch is by sticking a wire in and dragging it across that area to see if it is a true gouge or just a scuff from the piston. What does the piston look like when viewed through the intake?

Although the choke shaft won't affect the A/F mixture, it could allow fine particles to enter and eventually that would kill the plating on that side of the cylinder - seen it many times when an air filter is bad. It will also tend to pull more air in as your air filter plugs up.