Homelite 330 Intake Boot

[RaisedByWolves]

Ok, I filled the tank with premix and...........



IT RUNS!!


Started in 5 pulls with empty fuel lines. Lil carb tweaking and this saws a very good runner. Revs up and revs higher than any of my other saws, I think I like it!


Of course this only gets me wondering how the 550 will sound once it gets here.


Well, thats all for that project.


Whats next?

 

[Scavenger]

Hi,

This is my first post here. As you will soon discover by my questions I do not know all that much about chainsaws. If anyone ever needs help with a metal fabrication/welding project, just holler and I will try to help out.

I have a Homelite 330 just like the one in this excellent "how to" post. I also had to order a new rubber boot because the old one had almost split in half. I figured that while I was at it I may as well rebuild the carb too. Well I have the carb rebuilt, and was planning to slap everything back together, but I ran into a memory problem. I am trying to remember where the longest (black skinny) wire from the on/off switch gets fastened to the saw. The end at the switch is easy to figure out, but I just can not remember where the other end gets screwed on.

Problem #2.... I had to fight with this thing to get the top cover off and over the fuel tank mouth. Is there some way to get this top cover back on without forcing it, or possibly damaging something?

Problem/question #3...As suggested I purchased new fuel/oil line. It appears that the fuel line is sealed only by the pressure of the tight fit in the tank opening...is this correct? I replaced the fuel hose when I put a new filter in the tank, and I am thankful I don't have to do this too often....talk about a tight fit.

I am also assuming that someone has replaced the rubber boot before because where the reed housing meets the saw opening there was something like a clear silicon sealer being used as a gasket I assume. Do I need to put some sealer in this area when I put it back together?

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Pat

 

[BrightSunrize]

I just put my 330' back this weekend

Hi Pat.
I just reassembled my saw this weekend... and it works (he he)
I also had to change the rubber boot. It's sad they dont fabricate these parts anylonger. I managed to get the last one from a domestic distributor. It as old and hard, but i guess it will do a couple of more years of service.

I did not use any kind of seelant between the white plastic reed housing and the crankcase. The rubber boot will seal very nicely ontop of the reed. The carb will also squeeze the top of the boot on the carb plate sealing it tight.

The wire you mentioned is to be fixed on the underside of the saw. I attatched it to the screw next to the fuel tank. The screw holds the metal cover (over the flywheel), and i think its 2 screws under and two on the upper side. I just fixed it on the outside of the cover. The saw works fine so i guess it's grounded ok.

The top was a Bit**to get off. I also struggled like mad. I knew that the boot was faulty when i removed is so i just jerked it off. The main obstacle is the vibration damper on top of the saw closest to the handle. When i had cleaned up the saw and removed all the sawdust the top got on very easily. You should place the tank in the upper part and kind of slide the top over the carb plate and pull the handle end firmly back and down clearing the rubber damper assembly. Make sure you have attached all the new rubber hoses... (he he).


I think you are correct about the fuel line in the tank. I went to my local saw repair shop and we sold me a special fuel tubing that was very soft and it fitted excellent. It's not so hard to change it ( i hope you cut the tip off vertically and tied on a piece of string to get it trought the hole?) If not, i guess you had a hard time (he he).

I puchased new sealing rings for the crankchaft aswee, but did not change them at this time. I did not mess with the carb eighter. The saw works just fine now. I had to retune the carb. If you have to do this i recommend setting the Hi/Lo needles 1 and 1/4 turn counterclockwise from GENTLY closed position. If the saw refuses to start on full throttle and spits gas the mixture is to rich. Add 1/4+ turn counterclockwise in the Hi needle.

I love the grunt of this saw. I just bought a Homelite 45 cc Timberman as a backup (eg Ryobi 4545). It's also a good saw, but lacks the grunt of the 53 cc. There is no substitution for cubic inches.

Good Luck Pat... hope to hear from you when the beast is roaring..

XX :greenchainsaw:

 

[jcsaws]

boot

hi guys ,good to see you can get the boot there. if a shop did it here,they say "your as game as NED KELLY". we sore a lot of cranks crack on the clutch side. so they were sacraficed in the fire about 8 years ago...good luck..

 

[Scavenger]

BrightSunrize,

Thank you very much for the information. Prior to receiving your information I tossed the thing back together. I had to put the top back on almost exactly as you described it. After several failed attempts of getting that bugger to slide over the fuel tank, I took a break to ponder the situation. While I was giving it some thought my wife decided that I could be helping with the yard work. When she received a phone call I took that opportunity to slip back into the shop, and got the top back on.......what a pain.

I then finished putting the rest of the saw back together. Later I will have to disconnect the wire I had a question about, and place it where you suggested. I fastened it on the bottom of the saw where there is a round hole just about in the middle of the saw on the bottom cover. Inside that hole there is a small screw that I believe is used to hold the motor in place.

Once everything was back together I went and re-filled the gas/oil mix. This time I did as the guy at the place I bought the parts from suggested. He said that I really needed to use a 32:1 gas/oil mixture. He stated that even though some will say you can run a mixture of 50:1, the problem with that is that our gas has ethanol in it. He went on to say that the ethanol blends of gas are not really all that good for 2 stroke engines because the ethanol (alcohol) has a wash effect. I guess he meant the ethanol blends have less lubricating value than non-ethanol blends. He also suggested I use only premium gas because the octane level in regular unleaded gas is at a level just below what the saw needs to run correctly.

I then filled the tank with the new 32:1 premium gas/oil mixture. It took 4 pulls with the choke on to get it to sputter. I then turned off the choke, and with 1 pull that thing fired up and is now running better than it has in years. I decided to give it some green oak for breakfast. It cut through that oak like it was a youngster again.

I guess the only problem I can see is that when the saw is just idling, the chain will still be turning very slowly. If I recall correctly prior to the repairs, the saw chain did not move when it idled. I guess maybe the chain might be too loose causing this to happen, or maybe something with the idle speed.

I have a 330 with the UT code of 10609. I was able to find a parts list for this saw with the same carb that mine has (Walbro). I would like to get an owners manual and/or a repair manual, but I guess Homelite quit supplying any of this information.

Thanks again for all your help.

Pat.

 

[bugler]

330

Hi there & welcome to AS. Thanks for bringing up a good, older, thread.
An owners manual can be had from Homelite.com. Just call their 800#
and make a request. It's free. IPL (parts breakdown) can also
be had online, google for parts. May have to shuffle through a few
sites, but it's there. G-Day.......

 

[BrightSunrize]

BrightSunrize,

Later I will have to disconnect the wire I had a question about, and place it where you suggested.

He said that I really needed to use a 32:1 gas/oil mixture.

I guess the only problem I can see is that when the saw is just idling, the chain will still be turning very slowly.
Pat.

Congratulations!
I am glad to hear your "open heartsurgery" were successful aswell.
Regarding the wire, i guess the important thing is to get it grounded, not WERE it's connected to. if you get the saw running you're ok.

My old manual actually suggest running with a 16:1 gas/oil mix, when using NON-homelite oils. And i have always done this. I guess this probably saved my saw aswell when my intake boot broke. A busted boot fu*^# up the air mixture causing the saw to run lean. Running lean means running hot and needing more lubricants. So I will stick to my mixture. My new Homie is supposed to run 50:1... NOT... *s* I run it on 32:1.

I am not surprised about your chain is running on idle now after the repairs. Now you have fixed all the airleaks and stuff, causing the saw to run better on idle. Higher rpm causes the chain to run. Besides the HI/LO screws you have the idle screw. Just fiddle with the idle until the chain stops.

I am sad to say I had a setback yesterday. I just wanted to hear the roar once more when i was about to cut the grass. The animal had been sitting for a day or two and were pretty hard to start. When I finally got it to start it was leaking gas... dripping out from the flywayside of the hull.... I guess i can have used a hose with a bit to large diameter. So i guess i have to tear the thing apart again. Probably i will then ruin my new boot... (life sux)

John

 

[briantutt]

Now the last you need to do is re attach all of the outer stuff and your saw will look like this.....

:rockn: You rock, thanks for the "how to" :rockn:

check this out: http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/165693.htm