Homelite 775d dies instantly when tilted 90* to bar side.

[sliceoflife]

EDIT: Thanks for all the help everyone... It is resolved. The issue seemingly goes away if the saw is hot. I thought idling for 10+ min would get the saw hot enough, but it wasn't until I put the bar and chain on and actually cut some wood I got it hot enough and then it ran without issue.


So I bought a Homelite 775d as "runs great" on eBay. I put gas in it this morning and ran it. A few finicky things like the pullcord sometimes slips, etc... but it started up and idles well.


But when I tilt the saw 90* to the right, it instantly dies. Doesn't sputter and die. Doesn't overrev and die... Just Flat out stalls immediately with no fanfare.


Should I immediately return it or is this something I can possibly diagnose and fix relatively easily?

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Return it, you didn’t get what you paid for and you’ll get frustrated knowing you shouldn’t have to be repairing it. You didn’t buy it as a project.

It could be so many things - lose wire grounding, fuel pooling, damaged boot, impulse, carb, etc

Before it goes, take a video and upload it, it can speak volumes to the issue.

Edit: not to mention, getting parts for that will probably be difficult!

 

[sliceoflife]

Ok, so I dumped the gas out and it was loaded with flecks of shellac... looking down in the tank better... it looks like the seller cleaned the bottom of the tank but not the walls and they were pealing away just from having a fresh tank of gas in there... so I'm guessing he never ran it beyond getting it started and idling it with a tiny bit of gas in it. Filter and line both looked good as best as I can tell... no obvious damage.

That was the last of my mix so I can't try anything else until I run and get some 2 cycle additive.


I'll get some more additive and put a bit of gas in it and take a video for the seller and put it up here before I start the return. Who knows, maybe getting that shellac out of there was all it needed; but I doubt it.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I deal with a lot of older vintage saws ,if I were to buy an older vintage saw from a listing that stated, runs great, I would not expect that old saw to be a restored to new condition , mechanically but a saw that would start and run. It would be a rare occasion to get one in that did not have a few minor issues and if a buyer is into purchasing vintage saws then expect them to have a few minor glitches that will take some time and possibly parts to make them as near perfect as can be expected from a 40-50 year or older machine. I take it the add did not say rebuilt to new condition.

 

[sliceoflife]

Said "Runs and cuts great" and "Saw is ready to work".


Video of it dying when tilted here:

 

[sliceoflife]

So talking with the seller, he mentioned he cut a log to test it and it didn't stall when he put the nose down (it stalls on me with nose down or turned right)...

So I tried revving it and rotating it, and it doesn't seem to affect the saw noticeably to rotate it when Im giving it throttle...

Also kill switch doesn't work.

Possibly kill switch wiring grounding on something when tilted, but shaking of the revved saw interrupts the grounding enough it doesn't happen when revved?

Other possibilities? Carb issue where open throttle overcomes it, but idle fuel supply cant? Crank seals... or does the saw working when revved rule those out?


edit: Seller says he tested before shipping and seals aren't the problem.

 

[sliceoflife]

So seller asked me to check the gas cap vents... Gas cap is hard plastic with two pinholes on either side of the grip and a rubber part on the inside center. That part has a slit dead center that I assume is intentionally there to allow venting past it up to the pinholes... but maybe is damage? That said the saw spills gas out the vent holes when laying on its side... again not sure if this is as designed or indicates the cap needs replaced... Honestly if it's as simple as replacing a gas cap, that'd be nice.


That said, I threw the bar and chain on just to see if that changes anything and man it's quite the saw all put together... I may just keep it and deal with the stalling problem when I turn it when it's idling until I can find the reason. Saw's easy to kill with Choke so the killswitch isn't a problem for me... and other issues are all those kind of minor things I expected with a 60 year old saw that I can live with... just hoping I can pinpoint what's causing the stall and fix that.

 

[sliceoflife]

Seller's first question was "Does it still do it after saw heats up"...

Me thinking 15 mins @ idle would heat it up said yes.

Now that I got a bar on I took 5 minutes to run out and cut through a log real quick.

1. It was very very fun.
2. No stalling when rotating the saw after.


I'll still probably take some time to clean out the tank a little better before I really start using it, but I'm keeping it.

Did I mention it's a blast to use (for short periods of time, no doubt).

 

[pioneerguy600]

For me vintage saws are always a blast to run since I had worked many of them in the woods since the 60`s, small glitches are to be expected and for me at least are really no bother. Vintage saws are so easy to work on, just straight mechanical, no crowded together mis mash of parts and wires, usually a good bit of space /room to work on and get at fasteners and parts, moving or fixed in place.. Pull a couple of covers and check for a loose wire from the switch to the coil, that could be the stall out problem and the non working off/ on switch. Could be fuel related also but not a big expensive fix if it is, carb cleanout and new kit is to be about expected in old saws like this one.

 

[sliceoflife]

Yeah, looking for a loose wire is my next project for this saw. The choke is identical position to the kill switch, just the other side of the carb on this saw, so honestly, I can just use it as my kill; but like you mentioned... best to check for a loose wire to see if maybe it's the source of some other problems.


Also looks like I'll need to replace the gasket around the airbox (pretty rotted), and as mentioned get that tank interior cleaned up better.

Carb looks really clean, so I'm guessing seller rebuilt it before selling it to me, but I'll take a peak at it to be sure.


The pull cord misses every few pulls, especially if I pull it a few times rapidly... is there a piece that can be replaced to fix that (some kind of catch that may be worn); or would that most likely require replacing the whole assembly? Not super urgent in my book, but if it's a simple thing to fix, I might undertake it.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Yeah, looking for a loose wire is my next project for this saw. The choke is identical position to the kill switch, just the other side of the carb on this saw, so honestly, I can just use it as my kill; but like you mentioned... best to check for a loose wire to see if maybe it's the source of some other problems.


Also looks like I'll need to replace the gasket around the airbox (pretty rotted), and as mentioned get that tank interior cleaned up better.

Carb looks really clean, so I'm guessing seller rebuilt it before selling it to me, but I'll take a peak at it to be sure.


The pull cord misses every few pulls, especially if I pull it a few times rapidly... is there a piece that can be replaced to fix that (some kind of catch that may be worn); or would that most likely require replacing the whole assembly? Not super urgent in my book, but if it's a simple thing to fix, I might undertake it.

Yes, you put up a pic and any of us can tell you what is there, all parts are replaceable. It may be a Fairbanks Morse starter setup and there are parts that often wear or need attention in there. Homelite also had a recirculating ball type starter back then, lets hope its not one of those. Another possibility is it could be a catch pawl type and the pawl`s or small springs may need attention, vintage saws used many different types of starter recoils but all can be worked on to work proper again.

 

[cbfarmall]

A 775 is most likely the good old Homelite ball starter. Only thing I will suggest is spray in the base of it, against the flywheel, with brake cleaner. This will require disassembly of the starter and screen. Not a simple task for the uninitiated. It may have a fairbanks starter but those don't usually 'miss' once in a while. My 770GS was hammered out where the balls jammed, the outer ring was cracked and the inner pawl worn badly. Had to replace most parts.

Look for 700D, 707D, 770D and other starter parts. Avoid G models as they are opposite rotation, there are other minor differences. Sort of like this one. I have no idea if the part listed works.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2349225167...3VGR0obRKC&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[Gumneck]

@sliceoflife
With a bright light open the fuel tank and see what the routing of the fuel line is like. Just wondering if the fuel line is routed all the way to the left of the tank and when you turn it on the right side if fuel tank was just partially full then no more fuel.....not ever seeing that model I'm just spit balling.

Also, was saw already warmed up in the video before you started it?

 

[sliceoflife]

Thanks but it wasn't the fuel line placement. I thought the saw was warmed up but it wasn't it had just been idling a bit and apparently that's not enough to warm these old saws up

Cut through a log and saw seems to run fine once it's warmed up.

 

[JohnL]

This was the first chainsaw I bought, that started my addiction. Your's is in a lot better shape than mine, sounds like it has good compression.

 

[JohnL]

Mine has the "white death", really bad fuel tank corrosion, magnesium break down after many years. And, it has vacuum leaks at the crankshaft, don't think it has conventional crank seals, more like bushings. There was a guy on here who was very good at restoring these old Homelites, Lewis Brander, but he may have since passed, RIP...

 

[Okie]

DOING THE TILT TEST.
I did not read all of this thread, but I've seen saws act like yours and first thing I do is loosen the chain or completely remove the bar and chain. (It's usually the old saws and the bearing is still good just a dried out seal.
If loosening the chain or taking the chain off slightly changes the symptons or tightening the chain causes the low jet adjustment to change somewhat or get worse as the chain is tightened and loosened suspect the chain side crank seal to be bad. A vac/pressure test will confirm such.

 

[sliceoflife]

Got the 36" bar (holzformma .404 .063 Stihl large (14mm) mount) modded and installed.


Not positive (there's a dozen different listed weights for the G070 out there), but I think it's lighter than my G070... 11CC smaller, to be fair, but still, not as brutally heavy as I was expecting. Actually not bad at all. about 3 oz heavier than my Cs900 for 3.4 more CC. Maybe I just tend towards heavier saws.

 

[Okie]

I've noticed over the years that when I buy any kind of used stuff, especially if it's old I do not expect it to be like new perfect.
For example a vec, chainsaw, lawn mower and I've also noticed that if
It's got got tires or tets on it. it's going to eventually cause a man some troubles.

Also if I sell someone a used product I explain no warranty at all. If they want a warranty, Go buy a new one.

 

[sliceoflife]

So update time. Took it out to try and do a real run with it for the first time. Got through a slab and a half and it siezed up. Took the muffler off, dropped some two stroke oil directly in there and jiggled it free... but the piston is scored to hell. Probably should have assumed as much and checked that given that the compression felt quite low. But it ran and I figured that meant it was ok... but nope it's a horror show. So this will be my first rebuild saw if I can find a piston and cylinder for it... didn't check cylinder yet, but I will... kind of assuming its trashed given the state of the piston.