Homelite Chainsaws

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that saved a bunch of search Thank You!

Lil red barn and ole randy D.

Saw is prepped and tank cleaned ready to install.

I was cutting on the pile with a XL 500 (last years impulse buy) and that got me moving. My OCD is full tilt......jking

Mike

Need to see pics (and video if possible) of that XL-500. That's a model we don't often see.
 
I can work on the video

Need to see pics (and video if possible) of that XL-500. That's a model we don't often see.

Pictures I can do. Video is not my thing, I have mediocre DSL but my son is saying we can do it. Yes audio of that saw in the cut is very pleasing. I will give video a try, I will be playing with a GO Pro in the morning......

Stay tuned...
 
Anybody know how to get the flywheel off of a model 17? I finally got the recoil off (that was a tense moment). I found an IPL for it with good diagrams of it and designed a makeshift puller. Just leery of putting too much pressure on it.
Thanks in advance for any input.
 
Homelite Super XL Repair - Removing the head..

The first thing you may want to do before you pull this apart any further is remove the muffler and look at the piston and cylinder through the exhaust port to see if it's scored up which would indicate it was run lean or without oil in the gas mix and ths piston has started to melt. That would indicate that you likely need a new piston and rings as well as a cylinder if that's scored up as well.

If you look in your private messages in a short while, I will have sent you a repair manual for Homelite saws which may help you as you go along. I don't see an IPL (illustrated parts list) for that UT number but you can maybe find one at one of the sites I will post in my private message to you or at least one that will help you get it apart. The copper plumbing is for the manual oil pump. Your saw will have an automatic pump as well.

As advised, I removed the muffler and peered in at the piston. It had a small discoloration in the exhaust port, but seemingly nothing major. Still, there was a significant scratching noise as I rotated the flywheel.
Finally, I concluded that I could not remove the head without first removing the gas tank, and the screws holding it were obscured by the flywheel. So I wrestled the flywheel, for about an hour. Tapped the rim with a hammer, and squirted WD40 around the shaft. Finally, I made up my own flywheel puller from a piece of angle iron drilled to accommodate the two bolts that hold the starter pawls to the flywheel. Used these bolts to attach the angle iron over the center of the flywheel, then backed out the main flywheel central nut to press the flywheel off. Nothing doing. So I held an 8" piece of 1 x 2 against the back of the flywheel rim, near the thick sections that hold the magnets, and tapped on the end with a hammer. No dice again. Well, it had to come off, so I went back to cranking on the central nut - and, lo and behold - the flywheel fell off in my hand.
Behind the fly wheel were three bolts that hold the fuel tank to the crankcase. Two of them had rattled loose, and would have fallen out if not for impinging on the back of the flywheel. Tightened them up, and observed that the scratching noise had disappeared (!).
At this point, I could have dropped off the fuel tank, accessed that fourth bolt, and removed the head; but assuredly I would have needed a new gasket for reassembly, and it seemed asking for more problems. So I declined the opportunity, reassembled all the components, added fuel mix and bar oil, dripped a teaspoon of fuel into the carb, and pulled the starter cord. Ignition! She's been running like a top since.
Thanks for your interest and advice.
 
As advised, I removed the muffler and peered in at the piston. It had a small discoloration in the exhaust port, but seemingly nothing major. Still, there was a significant scratching noise as I rotated the flywheel.
Finally, I concluded that I could not remove the head without first removing the gas tank, and the screws holding it were obscured by the flywheel. So I wrestled the flywheel, for about an hour. Tapped the rim with a hammer, and squirted WD40 around the shaft. Finally, I made up my own flywheel puller from a piece of angle iron drilled to accommodate the two bolts that hold the starter pawls to the flywheel. Used these bolts to attach the angle iron over the center of the flywheel, then backed out the main flywheel central nut to press the flywheel off. Nothing doing. So I held an 8" piece of 1 x 2 against the back of the flywheel rim, near the thick sections that hold the magnets, and tapped on the end with a hammer. No dice again. Well, it had to come off, so I went back to cranking on the central nut - and, lo and behold - the flywheel fell off in my hand.
Behind the fly wheel were three bolts that hold the fuel tank to the crankcase. Two of them had rattled loose, and would have fallen out if not for impinging on the back of the flywheel. Tightened them up, and observed that the scratching noise had disappeared (!).
At this point, I could have dropped off the fuel tank, accessed that fourth bolt, and removed the head; but assuredly I would have needed a new gasket for reassembly, and it seemed asking for more problems. So I declined the opportunity, reassembled all the components, added fuel mix and bar oil, dripped a teaspoon of fuel into the carb, and pulled the starter cord. Ignition! She's been running like a top since.
Thanks for your interest and advice.

Homelites, Remingtons, Lombards and some others come apart like that but you must remove the flywheel.

Caution! Remington content.

View attachment 305896View attachment 305897
 
Lee brought up the question of the time span of 3100s in another post. I was wrong about at least one thing in my reply. Found an article from June 1970. I was thinking the article was from 1971. Anyway, by mid-year 1970, the 3100 was certainly for sale at Homelite dealers.

P1010023_zpsa7e82832.jpg


Dan
 
Giarcea this is just what happened to me also. A guy gave me this super xl locked up, well I wanted to learn something about saws.Started taking it apart,well a bolt fell out from behind the flywheel.Not locked up no more.
 
I just acquired a 550 today for $40.00. The bad is it needs a muffler. Does anyone have one or know where I can find one? Do these saws run pretty strong? Thanks -Alex
 
Grage sale finds.

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The SEZ is a runner. Just dumped the old fuel and primed and pulled a lot. Wrong bar on him.

The 102 needs a fuel filter and likely the lines replaced before we try him. No spark but compression feels good.

Blondie is a fair to middlin' chainsaw scout.:clap: She also found two Mac 3500 types and a gray 36cc Craftsman at another sale.
 
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Did you know that:

A Super EZ will pull a 20" bar?

Not very well but with light pressure and paying attention to engine speed he strolled slowly thru a 20" maple log.

He now wears a NOS Homie 14" hardnose. Thanks Mo.Jim:msp_biggrin:

The 102 is now a runner and got his 20" bar back from the squirt. Got too late to do a test cut.
 
I have been looking at this ugly 1100xp for some time now. It has sat soaking the internals in oil so I decded to empty it out and see what is up. I had to rebuild the starter with some parts off a 1020 and C5 because my drill will not spin the crank when the spark plug is in, woops I jumped ahead of myself, yes it has spark and runs on a prime. Time to find the best parts from the pile and get it at least presentable, it will never be pretty but I like the aged look.
 

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