Homelite Chainsaws

[undee70ss]

Hey all new to the site. I have a newer small Stihl saw and was looking for a larger saw to handle cutting some trees on my property that have been killed by the ash boring beetle. I ended up finding a package of 4 Homlite saws on my local Craigslist. I bought a 750 with a 36"bar, a super xl 925 with a 30" homelite bar, and a xl 98c with 30" bar that says xl98 c on the left side cover, but super xl 925 on the gas tank so I'm not sure what it is for sure.
The last one is I cannot tell the model, it is a bit t larger than the 750, and has a 53"bar with a helper handle. Plus it seems like there is either no clutch, or there is something wrong because the chain will not free wheel and turns with the engine when you pull it over. I'm not sure if it has been painted, or what. Any help identifying it would be greatly appreciated.

The XL98 is a superXL925 with a XL98 starter. A XL98 is a cutoff saw but many parts are interchangeable between the two.

The last one looks like a Homelite 1130g or a 3100g. Any tag on the saw? It's a gear drive saw ( notice how the bar is mounted offset). It will not freewheel because it's a gear drive.

You shouldn't use ether on 2 stroke engines. Use fuel mix only.

 

[ray benson]

Found out that the schematics with parts list aren't always accurate. Needed the gaskets for the carb on either side of the reed for my XL-12. Every one has the same part number as the SXLAO which has the cone reed. The XL-12 has the single reed as is pictured on page 31 of the Shop Manuel. I had to look thru hundreds of gasket pictures till I hopefully found the proper one.
Gee why do I love old things!

You needed to find the right ipl version. Most but not all have a U.T. number. Check your inbox for a XL-12 ipl that shows the single reed setup.

 

[45-70Frank]

You needed to find the right ipl version. Most but not all have a U.T. number. Check your inbox for a XL-12 ipl that shows the single reed setup.

Thank you again. Yes the manual you just send does show the proper part number.
You sure are a wealth of information!!

 

[45-70Frank]

How come none of the Tillotson rebuild kits for the HS-179-B come with the inlet needle valve spring?
The one in my XL-12 has rust on it ant is slightly deformed so I believe letting gas thru. Some gas comes out the carb throat sometimes.
I like sticking with OEM parts when possible.

Also for those who have rebuilt these carbs how hard was it to remove and replace the little round silver like disk (welsh plug) that give access to the needle ports? Or doesn't anyone ever remove and replace them?

 

[Hoggwood]

How come none of the Tillotson rebuild kits for the HS-179-B come with the inlet needle valve spring?
The one in my XL-12 has rust on it ant is slightly deformed so I believe letting gas thru. Some gas comes out the carb throat sometimes.
I like sticking with OEM parts when possible.

Also for those who have rebuilt these carbs how hard was it to remove and replace the little round silver like disk (welsh plug) that give access to the needle ports? Or doesn't anyone ever remove and replace them?

I have used several different brands of HS kits and only one ever came with a replacement metering lever spring. They are not generally replaced, so I was surprised the kit included them. It isn't uncommon to get a bit of fuel passing out through the front of the carb. If it is pushing out of the carb when sitting with a hot tank then you may have issues. Make certain the seat for the metering needle is really clean, the spring is sitting under the lever properly and the lever moves freely. Make sure the diaphragm inserts into the lever when reassembling. If the saw will not run properly, a wet pressure test on the carb could help isolate problems.

I always pull the plugs on rebuild. It is not often the idling ports or main are full of debris, but it allows one to inspect and clean well regardless. I use a really sharp awl and hammer to pierce the plug at a low angle. Once the awl just breaks through, you can carefully lever them out. I set and tap the new ones in using the head of a 3 1/2" nail. It flattens them well so they seal in the pocket.

Just to add a further note, I clamp the carb securely in a vice when pulling the plugs. More control when driving the awl.

 

[Nbrcrnchr]

I need some advice. - I have boogered up the metal plug trying pull it out to replace the duck bill in my XL-12 cap. As of now, it doesn't seem to want to stay in. It was a pain in the canasta to pull it out. For those that have had this type, after I get the duckbill, when installed will that hold it in or do I need to get some sort of epoxy or something else to either hold it in or get a new tube.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Hoggwood]

Those tubes are a very tight friction fit. I've had good luck pulling them by tapping the tube internally. I use a fender washer, thread a 10-32 (I think) into the tube and clamp the head of the screw in a vice. A claw end of a hammer can be used to carefully lever the tube out by pushing against the washer which is against the cap.

It should still make a tight seal as it is essential to hold the base of the duckbill securely against the vent hole in the cap. You may be able to clamp and use some sort of a sealant until it sets if it won't friction fit well.

 

[Nbrcrnchr]

Those tubes are a very tight friction fit. I've had good luck pulling them by tapping the tube internally. I use a fender washer, thread a 10-32 (I think) into the tube and clamp the head of the screw in a vice. A claw end of a hammer can be used to carefully lever the tube out by pushing against the washer which is against the cap.

It should still make a tight seal as it is essential to hold the base of the duckbill securely against the vent hole in the cap. You may be able to clamp and use some sort of a sealant until it sets if it won't friction fit well.

Thanks - Will try it as soon as my part comes in the door.

 

[fossil]

Thanks - Will try it as soon as my part comes in the door.

A wrap of teflon plumbing thread tape may work as well. Just don't cover the ends of the sintered plug

 

[Kensie1988]

Can anyone tell me if this crank seal is bad, or if anything looks bad in these photos? If the crank seal is bad what is the best way to remove one and insert a new one.

 

[ML12]

Its pretty hard to tell from photos whether or not the seal is good still. Are they still soft/pliable? Did you pressure/vac test the crankcase before disassembly? That would tell you right away. Seeing as you have the saw torn down this far already, you may as well replace the seals. I don't know what size they are, some of the homelite seals are not a common size so NOS may be your only option.

 

[Kensie1988]

The seal is still relatively pliable, but I've never touched a new seal so I don't really have anything to compare to. And I unfortunately don't have the equipment to vacuum test.

 

[ML12]

If it is still pliable you might be ok. Put it back together and run it. Once running if it has the symptoms of an air leak then you'll know and can change the seals.

 

[fossil]

The seal is still relatively pliable, but I've never touched a new seal so I don't really have anything to compare to. And I unfortunately don't have the equipment to vacuum test.

Don't mess around trying to decide whether or not a readily available seal is good or bad. A seal gone bad at the wrong time can destroy the piston and maybe the cylinder due to an air leak. If that's for your XL-925, the seal you need to buy is SKF CR 6119 or Timken 253747. They are readily available from bearing and industrial supply shops as well as on line.
The seals are the same for both sides.

Since you have the carrier out, make sure that "O" ring is OK It should be replaced as well.

 

[Kensie1988]

Don't mess around trying to decide whether or not a readily available seal is good or bad. A seal gone bad at the wrong time can destroy the piston and maybe the cylinder due to an air leak. If that's for your XL-925, the seal you need to buy is SKF CR 6119 or Timken 253747. They are readily available from bearing and industrial supply shops as well as on line.
The seals are the same for both sides.

Since you have the carrier out, make sure that "O" ring is OK It should be replaced as well.

Thanks so much for the help! Just so I will know what to look out for when I am running the saw. What are the symptoms of the seals leaking?

 

[fossil]

Thanks so much for the help! Just so I will know what to look out for when I am running the saw. What are the symptoms of the seals leaking?

Tuning.
When you tune the saw, start with the low needle and high needle at 1 turn out. Start the saw and warm it up. You may have to adjust the idle speed screw which is like the screw on the carb with the screw head facing back on the left side of the carb. It should be running just below the speed where the chain starts to turn. Put the air filter and cover back on. The saw should rev up quickly from odle. If it bogs, turn the low (idle mix screw) which is always the one closest to the motor or front one on your 925, out 1/16 of a turn each time until it rev's up without bogging. The carb is likely a Tillotson HS-151 A or B. The saw should four stroke when you rev it up and when you start to cut, the tune should clean up. If it screams, open the high mix screw 1/16 turn until it 4 strokes and then cleans up when you start to cut.

If you have an air leak the saw may start to speed up on it's own, it may return to idle very slowly. One test is the tip the saw on each side to see if the idle speed changes.
It may also only run with the choke on to some degree. Air leaks cause the saw to run lean. These little tricks are no substitute for a vacuum and pressure check. A saw that'd well sealed up will start and run very well if it has good compression and the ignition, fuel system and compression are in good order. Slight air leaks hurt performance and big ones kill the saw.

I'm attaching a bulletin from Homelite regarding the tuning of saws with the HS-151 A or B carbs on the high side needle. Read it and it will help you tune the saw if you have tuning issues. I'm not sure if any of the 925's came with Walbro SDC carbs or not.

This post is long and wordy as Aaron isn't on here anymore. LOL

 

[Kensie1988]

Tuning.
When you tune the saw, start with the low needle and high needle at 1 turn out. Start the saw and warm it up. You may have to adjust the idle speed screw which is like the screw on the carb with the screw head facing back on the left side of the carb. It should be running just below the speed where the chain starts to turn. Put the air filter and cover back on. The saw should rev up quickly from odle. If it bogs, turn the low (idle mix screw) which is always the one closest to the motor or front one on your 925, out 1/16 of a turn each time until it rev's up without bogging. The carb is likely a Tillotson HS-151 A or B. The saw should four stroke when you rev it up and when you start to cut, the tune should clean up. If it screams, open the high mix screw 1/16 turn until it 4 strokes and then cleans up when you start to cut.

If you have an air leak the saw may start to speed up on it's own, it may return to idle very slowly. One test is the tip the saw on each side to see if the idle speed changes.
It may also only run with the choke on to some degree. Air leaks cause the saw to run lean. These little tricks are no substitute for a vacuum and pressure check. A saw that'd well sealed up will start and run very well if it has good compression and the ignition, fuel system and compression are in good order. Slight air leaks hurt performance and big ones kill the saw.

I'm attaching a bulletin from Homelite regarding the tuning of saws with the HS-151 A or B carbs on the high side needle. Read it and it will help you tune the saw if you have tuning issues. I'm not sure if any of the 925's came with Walbro SDC carbs or not.View attachment 536184

This post is long and wordy as Aaron isn't on here anymore. LOL

I really appreciate all of your help!

 

[jerrycmorrow]

Trying to disassemble a 150 for cleanung and rebuild. Strange flywheel nut for the flywheel giving me trouble. Thought it prudent to verify which direction to turn to remove. Im figuring CCW. Correct?
Now i see why people dont like this saw. Totally weird configuration. Not difficult, except FW nut, but really different.

 

[undee70ss]

I'm not sure if any of the 925's came with Walbro SDC carbs or not.

Later saws (1990s) came with a Walbro WJ27 carb.

 

[lesorubcheek]

Trying to disassemble a 150 for cleanung and rebuild. Strange flywheel nut for the flywheel giving me trouble. Thought it prudent to verify which direction to turn to remove. Im figuring CCW. Correct?
Now i see why people dont like this saw. Totally weird configuration. Not difficult, except FW nut, but really different.

Its left hand threaded, so clockwise to loosen. I love 150s, but flywheel removal is one thing that isn't the greatest. I always like to put a nut on the end of the crank when removing the flywheel 'cause one I tried without one and the puller ended up breaking off the end of the crank. So for a 150, ya need a left handed nut handy, which usually isn't the easiest thing to keep track of at least not around here.

Dan