Homelite Chainsaws

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What’s a good homelite model to collect? I’d like to get somewhere between a 85 cc to 100cc saw. Or is there a popular 75cc saw?
 
Is this the correct/typical routing for the delivery hose from the diaphragm chamber to the bar mount with a straight barb vs. the 90 degree barb (which I believe is fed from above) on an early Super 2 ?


Check these pics Poge. I took them when I was pulling my Super 2 down. Other than these pics, I don't remember squat.

One more pic in my next post.

DSCF2849.JPG DSCF2850.JPG DSCF2853.JPG Oil line B.jpg oil lines A.jpg
 
For case bore fit here are the specs for Timken (National) seals

Steel seal case diameter Nominal fit 0.005 ± 0.002
Rubber coated seals Nominal fit 0.008 ± 0.003

Don't ever pound in seals that are too tight in the case bore or you will likely have to disassemble the engine to knock it out from the rear.

The issue with the seals available that fit the case bore is that the ID for the shaft is too small.

The shaft is 0.656" dia and the seals are for a shaft diameter of 0.625 (I think one may be for 0.63") which makes it tight on the shaft.

Normal interference seal to shaft is between 0.040" to 0.050" so you would be up another 0.030 or so. It doesn't sound like much but it's very noticeable when installed

The downside of running a seal too tight is drag on the motor and that the seal will eventually wear a groove in the shaft.

Not sure about seal longevity but I'm guessing its not helping being too tight. I some guys that are running tight seals but I don't know how often they run the saw.

I did manage to find some 58308 seals some time ago and gave up looking.

As you did, it's always worth a look converting the inch sizes to metric sizes. I found a perfect fit for the 4200 - 8500 series and The large frame Macs are metric seals as well.

An Update on the XP-1100:

I've come up with a solution to the 58308 seal dilemma, a 16x24x5mm seal. I ground the seal surface on the crankshaft down to 16mm (only needed to take about 0.020" off, on the lathe, and I will see how much interference there is on the OD in the case. The bore is only 0.0075" smaller than 24mm, so i think it should work. If there is too much interference, i'll bore it out on the mill. I'm betting that it will work out ok though.

I also cleaned up the transfer in the cylinder and while I know it isn't perfect, it'll be good enough to run a couple times a year. None of the plating is missing so I call that a win. It had ok compression with a scored top end before, so I'm sure it'll be fine now.

new piston and rings are in the mail.

It also has the smaller gears in it (2:1 instead of 3:1) so that should be good. I'm debating blasting and re-painting it, but it still has most of its original paint and I think it would be a shame lose that.
 
What’s a good homelite model to collect? I’d like to get somewhere between a 85 cc to 100cc saw. Or is there a popular 75cc saw?
Super 1050, Super 1050, Super 1050, then a C9, C7, C5. I like the XL900 series too, but it's the big square ones that I really like. I'd get a Super 2100 or 3100, but you cut it off at 100CC's. I had a 7-29 with a 52" bar and sold it. I'd like to get another one of those.
 
I scored this pile for $20 I believe the big saw lower left in the photo in an XL925. How can I verify? The sticker is missing all but XL and 5.
I wont lay hands on them for a couple weeks, my father in law that lives 4 hrs away in Maine made the score for me.
How did I do?
62b1e543b65085fc2b2a0131bd7e48b2.jpg
 

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