The description of that clutch says "low pro 3/8" which I don't think ever came on those early homelite saws? And it's a spur sprocket?
Homelite Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Yeah, I know the description is very odd. But I looked on Oregon's website and it lists it as being used on C series saws. I just want to know if anyone has actually used one before I bite the bullet and order one.
Sorry I have not ,plus I always look for a rim sprocket.
KYsawman
Mr XL-12
I have a good used rim drive, pm me if you still need one, it is on a parts C51 I have.
Ok my stihl elasto starter cord came in and apparently they don't want to give you enough rope to hang yourself!, it works fine ( as in HUGE IMPROVEMENT) on the creamsicle but i feel like the rope is to short for my homelite and I'm not sure if the cord is cast into the rubber shock?
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
Thank you for the offer! I wound up measuring the ID of the drum, and checked a bunch of other old clutches I had from various parts saws etc. Turns out that a McCulloch drum fits with an ID only ~0.010" smaller. Had to change the spacer washers around to get it to cover the shoes and spin freely, but it seems to work ok. Should do ok for an occasional use saw.
Also noted that the drum off an 070 has the same ID, but is deeper so you'd need to do some machine work to make the drum shallower, and figure out the bearing.
Pics of it together. Starts and runs great, its pretty loud with the stack exhaust.
workin on 5-30 here.
kinda surprised to find fw side bearing is actually a bushing.
any thoughts on makin oil hole bigger?
small hole inside of case to bush, dont see alot of mix gettin thru there. less than 1/16. 035 weld wire goes thru.
tia.
also need seal 1 3/16 od, 15/16 id, 1/8 thick/deep, if anyone knows source. drive side seal.
kinda surprised to find fw side bearing is actually a bushing.
any thoughts on makin oil hole bigger?
small hole inside of case to bush, dont see alot of mix gettin thru there. less than 1/16. 035 weld wire goes thru.
tia.
also need seal 1 3/16 od, 15/16 id, 1/8 thick/deep, if anyone knows source. drive side seal.
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
I did some digging for the seal, the only thing I could come up with was a CR (SKF) seal 711811. Not a proper lip seal per se, but a block V whatever that means. Looks like its for automotive applications. Not sure of the speed rating.
I have a list and the recommended seal for Homelite 56256B is an SKF CR7414 which is for a 1-1/8" case pocket and a 3/4"shaft. Width is 3/16"
Let me know so can strike off the list if that doesn't work.
Hello all! I'm in need of some guidance. I have a NOS muffler for my Homelite 750 and am ready to install it. I've had it for a couple of years and am now ready to go back through the saw. However, I cannot for the life of me locate the screws for it. Could someone please be so kind as to share the specifications of the screws, or point me in the direction of a set/possibly more for use as spares? Thanks for reading and lending assistance. Best, and have a safe and Happy Thanksgiving! Max.
Max.
Copy of the IPL here https://www.leonschainsawpartsandre...elite_750_chainsaw_ipl_17105__revision_1_.pdf
The muffler to exhaust port are 1/4 -20 X 3/4 socket head cap screws (2)
plus (2) socket head cap screws 10-24 X 3/4
for the muffler baffle/ cover it looks like you need (3) hex head SEMS 8-32 X 3/8
Te IPL is pretty clear and with the muffler in your hands it should be fairly clear if you need any others.
Cheers
Tim, thank you so very much. This means a lot, and I'm looking forward to getting the monster running again. Best, Max.
Good luck with it Max. I have a Super 650 and know what you mean. Super saws but a might fragile.
Gotta love ebay. Found a saw that didn't sell for $75 bid/$100 BIN. They relisted it at $50 bid/75 BIN and it bid up to 130. Go figure.
Just putting the word out - I'm looking for either a C9 or a C91.I don't exactly want to spend a small fortune on one,I was hoping in the $75 range,something to tinker with when I get back on my feet again.(I had recent back surgery & things didn't go as planned)I don't need it to be a runner,& I don't want something that needs a complete tear down either.I have a C5 & a C71,they're both awesome machines!
Ed
Ed
I'll keep my eyes open, I hope your doing ok? Back surgery and "didn't go as planned " shouldn't be together in the same sentence.
Thanks.greatly appreciated!
Ed
Ed
chainsawlady
Junior Member
I have a lot of N.O.S.
Homelite screws, nuts and washers.for sale. My inventory at the house says I have the following for your 750 saw. 2 - 82316 - 2 - 82283 - 3 - 88041.
Contact me -joycewilson26 @gmail.com or chainsawlady on the forum
@chainsawlady
do you have...
71946-a bracket
aa-72407 plate
both parts of 5-30 tensioner, actually only need part w/2 holes, goes on bar studs.
73216 belt
72413 seal
also for 5-30, maybe others.
thx
do you have...
71946-a bracket
aa-72407 plate
both parts of 5-30 tensioner, actually only need part w/2 holes, goes on bar studs.
73216 belt
72413 seal
also for 5-30, maybe others.
thx
I had 4 Super 1050's, one my Dad bought new in 72-73, it had a Tilly, the other 3 had SDC's. As stated no decomp. I started running the 1050 as my daily use saw when I was about 16-17. I found out quick if you want to keep your fingers when that thing pops back, keep the throttle cracked at least half way, or use the throttle lock. When I first started running them a was just a tad afraid of them, and tried to start them "easy". Ain't no easy about it. I learned to find a log, set the tip of the bar on the log, hold the throttle open with my right hand, and crank with the left. They never popped back. If you try to pull it over with the throttle closed it will pop back and rip your fingers off. I asked one time why it did that? Answer I got was, "reed valves", all saws with reed valves do that.
