Homelite Chainsaws

[rarefish383]

Joe,you can't use a chip on an electronic ignition module (mistakenly referred to as a "coil").Maybe you misunderstood my previous post?The Wico/Prestolite ignition module (commonly referred to as the "blue coil of death") was used on the SXL,XL-12,SEZ,XL-1,& I think as early as the XL-850,& the ignition module took the placer of the points & condensers.Phelon/Repco also had their version of the electronic ignition module as well.
I have used chips to replace the points & condensers on several saws & yes,they're easy to install.However,I do not use the Nova II chips as I think they're too thick & can't be used in some instances.I prefer the thinner one wire chips that sell for around $15.

That's what I thought you meant. I went back and you mentioned a kit to replace the points and condenser also. So, I wasn't sure?

So, is there away to "Fix" an electronic ignition with out finding a repro or original? If so, I wonder if I could adapt it to an Echo? I have 2 Echo 750's with bad ignitions. My cousin's SIL is an aerospace engineer. He makes tools for the Space Station. When I asked him he laughed and said, "70's technology, I could make it in 5 minutes." But, he wanted me to get him a wiring schematic, which I couldn't find?

 

[edju1958]

That's what I thought you meant. I went back and you mentioned a kit to replace the points and condenser also. So, I wasn't sure?

So, is there away to "Fix" an electronic ignition with out finding a repro or original? If so, I wonder if I could adapt it to an Echo? I have 2 Echo 750's with bad ignitions. My cousin's SIL is an aerospace engineer. He makes tools for the Space Station. When I asked him he laughed and said, "70's technology, I could make it in 5 minutes." But, he wanted me to get him a wiring schematic, which I couldn't find?

I don't know much about the Echo saws,but if I'm not mistaken,I saw an electronic module for an Echo saw (may have been a 750) a couple weeks back on feebay.

As for "fixing" an electronic module,I've only heard of baking them,but that's only a short term "fix".They eventually fail again,been there done that.

 

[edju1958]

I got the carb rebuilt today for the SXL.The carb was one of the most stubborn to clean up.The gaskets & diaphragms were like they were glued in place.It does have a leak down & may tuirn out to be problematic.
I also put a new duck bill in the fuel cap.Yesterday I ran a new fuel line & filter,just waiting on the ignition module now.

 

[Gumneck]

This popped up near me for $50. "all parts there, pulls over, cord retracts slow, that's all I know".....that's the details posted.
Might go look at it if its worth it.

 

[Bill G]

This popped up near me for $50. "all parts there, pulls over, cord retracts slow, that's all I know".....that's the details posted.
Might go look at it if its worth it.

The bow alone is worth more.

 

[edju1958]

I got the new module & installed it yesterday,great spark now.I also installed the carb.Today was the day of reckoning,I fueled it up & about 5-6 pulls later it fired up.The carb was very touchy to try to tune.I m,ay end up swapping out the carb with another SDC62 I have here.I put a new 20 in.bar & chain on it & it's ready to cut.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

This popped up near me for $50. "all parts there, pulls over, cord retracts slow, that's all I know".....that's the details posted.
Might go look at it if its worth it.
View attachment 1148829View attachment 1148830

Looks like a husqvarna bow bar? which would fit,but might oil poorly.
If you do get it ,I know I have a proper XL12 bow.

 

[Gumneck]

Looks like a husqvarna bow bar? which would fit,but might oil poorly.
If you do get it ,I know I have a proper XL12 bow.

Interesting, I thought the paint looked more orange but didn't think much about it. I dont have any bow saws and this one is pretty closeby. Haven't heard any more from the owner after he asked me if I was still interested. Not stressing either way.

I'll post back when I hear something, and thanks for the info.

 

[Okie]

I got the new module & installed it yesterday,great spark now.I also installed the carb.Today was the day of reckoning,I fueled it up & about 5-6 pulls later it fired up.The carb was very touchy to try to tune.I m,ay end up swapping out the carb with another SDC62 I have here.I put a new 20 in.bar & chain on it & it's ready to cut.

Was that the electronic module you installed/replaced?
If so where did you get the module? (the reason I asked is I do Anzac $16 mods by swapping the coil onto the homie laminations but I hear that for around $50 reolacement modules are available. I have to have the correct Homie original laminations for my mods))

AND Yes about carb swaps for testing. Really nice to have spare GOOD carbs for testing. After I know for sure that one of them small carb's is ALL OF THE SAWS issues I can usually go deeper and fix the carb.

 

[edju1958]

Was that the electronic module you installed/replaced?
If so where did you get the module? (the reason I asked is I do Anzac $16 mods by swapping the coil onto the homie laminations but I hear that for around $50 reolacement modules are available. I have to have the correct Homie original laminations for my mods))

AND Yes about carb swaps for testing. Really nice to have spare GOOD carbs for testing. After I know for sure that one of them small carb's is ALL OF THE SAWS issues I can usually go deeper and fix the carb.

Okie,I got the aftermarket module from Sawzilla.com for $40.I've read your write up on the Anzac module you've used on the SEZs.I didn't know it could be used on the SXL or XL-12 too (?).The AM Phelon module is $40 & the AM Wico module is $54.There are other AM modules out there on eBay for less money,but the ones from Sawzilla are warranted for either 90 or 120 days.I'd just as soon bolt on the new module & be done with it.

 

[Okie]

Okie,I got the aftermarket module from Sawzilla.com for $40.I've read your write up on the Anzac module you've used on the SEZs.I didn't know it could be used on the SXL or XL-12 too (?).The AM Phelon module is $40 & the AM Wico module is $54.There are other AM modules out there on eBay for less money,but the ones from Sawzilla are warranted for either 90 or 120 days.I'd just as soon bolt on the new module & be done with it.

.I'd just as soon bolt on the new module & be done with it.

Right, just bolt one on for $40. I do not know if the Anzac module will even work on the saws you mentioned. Most likely not unless it's a Wico system and the laminations for the center mount through the magneto is same as the EZ's laminations. I tried to install a Anzac module onto a Wico points type laminations core and it would not fit, The laminations was slightly larger size than the electronics laminations blue coil of death. Close but no cigar. I was going to make myself a spare Wico electronic module for bolt on as you mention. I also found out that even finding blue coil of death core laminations replacements is a no go. I had to use donor blue coil of death laminations. The Homie core parts numbers listed are for the points type Wico/Prestolite coils.
Lots of piddling would have been involved to mod a points type Wico lamination to fit the Anzac modle, like for example removing some laminations and filing down to size.
I've heard a rumor that Standard magneto is now selling complete magneto's (modules) for the EZ's for around $50. When I was doing the mods the Prestolite/Wico OEM blue coils of death replacements were hard to find at a reasonable price, some modules that had previously failed were being baked to repair and sold at high prices.
Some guys on this forum put me onto the Anzac mod when I posted a thead about trying to mod the electronic EZ's and get a test run by even bolting on a points flywheel and using a chip.
I've started looking at parts from Sawzilla but have not purchased from them yet.
Have to keep a heads up about the Phelon Homie ign systems as parts not being interchangeable with the Wico systems.

Thanks for the comeback.

 

[edju1958]

.I'd just as soon bolt on the new module & be done with it.

Right, just bolt one on for $40. I do not know if the Anzac module will even work on the saws you mentioned. Most likely not unless it's a Wico system and the laminations for the center mount through the magneto is same as the EZ's laminations. I tried to install a Anzac module onto a Wico points type laminations core and it would not fit, The laminations was slightly larger size than the electronics laminations blue coil of death. Close but no cigar. I was going to make myself a spare Wico electronic module for bolt on as you mention. I also found out that even finding blue coil of death core laminations replacements is a no go. I had to use donor blue coil of death laminations. The Homie core parts numbers listed are for the points type Wico/Prestolite coils.
Lots of piddling would have been involved to mod a points type Wico lamination to fit the Anzac modle, like for example removing some laminations and filing down to size.
I've heard a rumor that Standard magneto is now selling complete magneto's (modules) for the EZ's for around $50. When I was doing the mods the Prestolite/Wico OEM blue coils of death replacements were hard to find at a reasonable price, some modules that had previously failed were being baked to repair and sold at high prices.
Some guys on this forum put me onto the Anzac mod when I posted a thead about trying to mod the electronic EZ's and get a test run by even bolting on a points flywheel and using a chip.
I've started looking at parts from Sawzilla but have not purchased from them yet.
Have to keep a heads up about the Phelon Homie ign systems as parts not being interchangeable with the Wico systems.

Thanks for the comeback.

Standard Magneto has had the replacement module for the SEZs for a few yrs,now.There is another option & that's changing the system over from a Wico to a Phelon which would require a Phelon FW as well as the module.For some reason the Phelon system is cheaper in parts (even the points & condenser systems).Another thing I found out from a HOH member is it doesn't matter if the condenser is Wico or Phelon,it'll work on either system (points).One of the condensers has a longer wire than the other.
I have a Phelon condenser for a Homelite saw that I'd like to try using on a Mac saw as Macs all used Phelon condensers & are NLA.

 

[Okie]

Right about the Old Mac's points and condensers getting scarce.
I stumbled across both points and condensers for the Mac 250 and 1-40, 1-50 series new on flea bay sometimes back at a reasonable price and bought spares. I've got some points condenser ignition systems that are really old (30-40 years) with OEM's still in use. Once a old set of points that are worn in and are disturbed or aggravated they seem to usually not like being bothered and will start failing.

Something I've done if I suspect a condenser is bad or erratic and I do not have the correct one for mounting is just disconnect the one under the flywheel and connect a test condenser outside the flywheel. It can be connected to the kill switch wire because this is same as the tie point on the points where the disconnected condenser is tied.
I operated an old 028 Stihl for long time using this method because I did not have the correct replacement parts and the tool for re-setting the points and really needed the saw to go to work at the time..

My point being is the values in UF (microfarads) on the condensers for the old points systems are not critical in values when doing a test sub.. (its the physical size and mounting of the condenser that is the hangup. On battery points systems such as Autos and some small engines such as the old Onan B43, B48's I've relocated the condenser to the NEGATIVE post of the 12v ignition coil for more user friendly replacement.
I've spliced the lead wire longer when needed also
I've got all kinds of condenser testers but the ONLY real test of a condenser is to sub with a good one. I've seen them test good on testers and fail when put to work. (and a erratic or intermittent bad condenser is a hair puller)

Thanks for the Wico info. I think I have a Phelon flywheel but do not remember if it's a points or electronic. Flywheel Magnets have reverse polarity as to which magnet (North/South) goes by the flywheel FIRST for points vs electronic. (spark will be really weak if wrong flywheel is installed vs the module)
I've purposely spun the EZ's crankshaft both directions with a battery drill (with spark plug removed to reduce compression) and noted the difference in the ignition spark intensity.

 

[heimannm]

I finally got back to the SEZ project, as Hoggwood pointed out a few pages back, the early models had some inserts in the fuel and oil caps with duckbill valves installed.



It was pretty simple to pull/twist them out. Interesting that the two were installed in opposite orientations.



The remains of the duckbill in the oil tank.



I've been using some Poulan Pro bar oil with a very dark purple tint in it and noticed the fuel was stained with bar oil. I pressure tested the fuel tank and sure enough it is bubbling out the oil tank fitting. Has anyone tried Red-Kote in the fuel tank on one of these? I have a new gasket, but the tank looks like it has some epoxy type sealant in addition to the gasket and I am reluctant to try and separate the tank sections.

Mark

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I finally got back to the SEZ project, as Hoggwood pointed out a few pages back, the early models had some inserts in the fuel and oil caps with duckbill valves installed.

View attachment 1150320

It was pretty simple to pull/twist them out. Interesting that the two were installed in opposite orientations.

View attachment 1150321

The remains of the duckbill in the oil tank.

View attachment 1150322

I've been using some Poulan Pro bar oil with a very dark purple tint in it and noticed the fuel was stained with bar oil. I pressure tested the fuel tank and sure enough it is bubbling out the oil tank fitting. Has anyone tried Red-Kote in the fuel tank on one of these? I have a new gasket, but the tank looks like it has some epoxy type sealant in addition to the gasket and I am reluctant to try and separate the tank sections.

Mark

I've seen plenty of sealant ( blue color?) In other Homelite saws of the same vintage.

 

[Piotr Pakuła]

Not all of the info you find on the internet about chainsaws is correct, if you search the Homelite 240-HG you may find it listed as first being made in 1986, that information is wrong. I bought my first ever chainsaw from Kmart in the fall of 1981, it was a Homelite 240. Here’s all I have left, the manual was printed in 1981.

Mine is 1993

 

[edju1958]

Mark,I tried Red Koting an SEZ fuel tank a few yrs.back & it didn't work.It still leaked like a sieve when I was done & couldn't figure out why.I ended up using an entirely different tank & was good to go.If you need a good used tank,PM me,you can have one for the cost of shipping.

 

[edju1958]

I picked up a little "basket case" XL-12 about a week ago.The recoil had the rope hanging out of the recoil & the recoil was off the saw,bolts were missing.It had the blue coil of death on it & was covered in crud about 1/4 in.thick.I topok the ignition module off & cleaned it up hoping to gety spark back again,but my efforts were futile.For $30 I can get a new AM module that's way better than the original.Irebuilt the Zama carb that came on the saw but it won't hold pressure,so I took 2 Walbro SDC carbs (an SDC48 & SDC62) & put them together to make one good carb that holds pressure..I pulled the FW today & what looks like a stator plate that holds the ignition module,& cleaned the entire engine area out.I installed the rebuilt carb & a new fuel filter,the fuel line was still good.I also put a new duck bill in the fuel cap.
The recoil just needed to be cleaned & I mean cleaned..For a manual oil only saw I don't think I've ever seen so much oil in the recoil.The spring was just caked with sawdust & oil.I did a comprerssion test & it came in at 120 psi,not exactly the best,but not that terrible either.The piston has some minor scoring on it,but I think it'll be OK.The compression could possibly come up a bit after running.I have no idea how long the saw has been sitting idle.Here's a pic of the inside of the recoil.More pics to follow.

 

[heimannm]

Thanks for your offer Ed, if the Red-Kote doesn't solve it I will be in contact.

I have gotten into the habit lately of polishing the seat in an old carburetor using a bit of toothpaste. My success rate has been very high getting them to work properly again. I have a small piece of tubing to slip over the end of the needle to give me something to hold on to.







Mark

 

[Jay Hansen]

Thanks for your offer Ed, if the Red-Kote doesn't solve it I will be in contact.

I have gotten into the habit lately of polishing the seat in an old carburetor using a bit of toothpaste. My success rate has been very high getting them to work properly again. I have a small piece of tubing to slip over the end of the needle to give me something to hold on to.

View attachment 1151414

View attachment 1151415

View attachment 1151416

Mark

I've done the exact same thing several times and managed to reestablish a viable seat for the new needle.