Homelite Junk Trimmer Plug Gap?

[DSLDAW]

Hey guys,Anyone have any idea about what the spark plug gap would be on
a China junk Homelite 25CC trimmer? I took the plug out and it checked out
at about .020- .025. I never got the manual from my FIL,so I don't have
a clue on the basics of this POS trimmer. Do most trimmers have a standard
"gap",or are they brand and engine specific? . Also,would adding fuel to the carb,help "weed-out" the fuel issue I'm having of the primer bulb being held down by vaccumm,on the first pump to get it started. This POS takes like 8-10 pumps to get it normally started when cold,so it's not starting now.It has started for a few seconds when fuel is added to the cylinder,but will not rectify the bulb issue,so I'm still lost as to why this is happening. The lines are not clogged and are actually new,carb was removed and thoroughly taken apart and cleaned,so I'm pretty much going to get a new Husky,and scrap this Homey ASAP.Just would like to at least get this junker running,so I could sell it in somewhat of a running condition.It ran before I replaced the bulb and primer fuel line. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.:help:

 

[Gizzard]

I have one bought in 2000. The manual that came with it lists Champion RDJ-7Y with .025" gap.

 

[HimWill]

The best way to prime a dry carb is to pull the plug and pull it over until you smell gas.Then replace the plug and start it up.If the carb diaphram is pumping fuel,pulling it over without the plug will still give you the pressure pulses to pump it up,and it won't wear you out doing the pulling.

You did get the lines in the proper places didn't you?

 

[cmarti]

The carb is made by the same people who make them for you non china junk trimmers. You can thoroughly clean a diaphragm carb, but are asking about spark plug gap:dunno: The primer bulb sticking would indicate a problem in carb reassembly or crossing fuel lines.

The answer to the only coherent thing you typed is .025. good luck

 

[DSLDAW]

The carb is made by the same people who make them for you non china junk trimmers. You can thoroughly clean a diaphragm carb, but are asking about spark plug gap:dunno: The primer bulb sticking would indicate a problem in carb reassembly or crossing fuel lines.

The answer to the only coherent thing you typed is .025. good luck

Thanks for the plug gap.I had 2 seperate issues,and rambled on an on,sorry.
The fuel and primer lines are correct,and the carb was reassembled properly,
since I used it for about 2 hours,until the the trimmer cut off while using it. That's when I noticed the primer bulb was cracked up,so I assumed that was
only obvious issue. Thanks for your help.

 

[DSLDAW]

The best way to prime a dry carb is to pull the plug and pull it over until you smell gas.Then replace the plug and start it up.If the carb diaphram is pumping fuel,pulling it over without the plug will still give you the pressure pulses to pump it up,and it won't wear you out doing the pulling.

You did get the lines in the proper places didn't you?

Thanks for the help. The lines are correct,since it was working before the
bulb cracked and it died. Your answer to my question is great,it will surely
help my stupid dilema. Thanks Again.

 

[HimWill]

Hard starting and ultimately "dying for no reason" are also symptoms of a clogged spark arrester screen .Pull the screen out of the muffler and burn the carbon build-up off of it.It helps to dip it in kerosene or diesel first,burns off cleaner.Even a spritz of WD40 will help it burn off.

The trimmer should still run even though the bulb is split,mine does.It will not run with the screen clogged up.

 

[tomtrees58]

i think its 69 :hmm3grin2orange: tom trees

 

[DSLDAW]

Hard starting and ultimately "dying for no reason" are also symptoms of a clogged spark arrester screen .Pull the screen out of the muffler and burn the carbon build-up off of it.It helps to dip it in kerosene or diesel first,burns off cleaner.Even a spritz of WD40 will help it burn off.

The trimmer should still run even though the bulb is split,mine does.It will not run with the screen clogged up.

Thanks about the spark arrestor info. Will take the muffler off and take a peek. I was a little hesitant,about the bulb issue actually having any bearing
on the engine shutting off,but like you said,it shouldn't have affected it. I was just assuming,and we all know what that means.LOL.
I was running the wacker for a few hours straight,in high heat,and that's
when it croaked. The only obvious thing that was crying out to me,that was
the cause of it cutting out,was the bulb being broke. It wasn't broke when
I started it earlier in the day,so I guess I just "assumed",that was the reason.
Actually,it has done the same thing before to me,last season,but it always
seemed to run O.K.,until it gets really hot ,from using it hard and long.
Thanks A Ton,your the man.

 

[HimWill]

The bolts holding it on are T27 torx,if you don't have one I think Autozone would be the best bet on a Sunday afternoon.

 

[rmh3481]

Small Homelite 25cc engines are fairly durable. The gas tanks leak when the fuel line shrinks that is what I dont like. If your having spark issues, try a regular plug like a Champion DJ8 or DJ8J gaped at .020.

I have one that is a straight shaft w/o a clutch. Pulled the muffler and the screen and found they install a blocker plate in the exhaust exit. Removed that plate and screen and now this one runs really good.

Best wishes,
Bob

 

[DSLDAW]

The bolts holding it on are T27 torx,if you don't have one I think Autozone would be the best bet on a Sunday afternoon.

Not a problem,thanks. I may be a newbie on this site,and as far as small
engines go,but I've been a mechanic for about 20 years and own a ton of
good quality tools.I'll break her open on Monday morning and see what's the
dealie-O.Thanks again,I don't even have to check the size,now.Just open up
the big tool box and rock.:biggrinbounce2:

 

[DSLDAW]

Small Homelite 25cc engines are fairly durable. The gas tanks leak when the fuel line shrinks that is what I dont like. If your having spark issues, try a regular plug like a Champion DJ8 or DJ8J gaped at .020.

I have one that is a straight shaft w/o a clutch. Pulled the muffler and the screen and found they install a blocker plate in the exhaust exit. Removed that plate and screen and now this one runs really good.

Best wishes,
Bob

I really appreciate the info,Bob. I have to admit,that the engine,when not
giving me problems,did run like a raped ape. I myself,went through that fuel
line leaking issue,on more than one occassion. I made the stupid mistake,when I ripped her completly apart,sans,muffler,of taking out the fuel
screen from the tank. What a major pain in the butt,to get the assembly
back in the tank.LOL. It almost made me give up,but made me stronger.
Will never make that mistake,again. I guess I can't complain about the
trimmer,since it was given to me,and has lasted the 4 years I've had it,but
it's time to retire the old girl,for a new Husky this week. Thanks again for all
the help,by super knowledgeable guys.:yourock:

 

[HimWill]

Pull the screen,burn it off and keep your money in your pocket.Save it up for something you want,not another trimmer.

 

[DSLDAW]

Pull the screen,burn it off and keep your money in your pocket.Save it up for something you want,not another trimmer.

If this fix helps the trimmer run,that much better,your right,why would I
need to go buy another trimmer for like $250? I have always been annoyed
with the Homelite,since I have to pump the primer at least 10 times to
get it started and the pull cord has always felt as if it's not grabbing the
flywheel fully,and slipping profusely.You,ve made me really think about
just fixing this trimmer up,instead of wasting all that dough,on a new wacker.
Thanks. Just hope,I'm not::deadhorse:

 

[HimWill]

Pull the screen,burn it off and keep your money in your pocket.Save it up for something you want,not another trimmer.

The only thing I can think of that depreciates faster than a trimmer is...........

A ice-cold beer!!!!!

 

[DSLDAW]

The only thing I can think of that depreciates faster than a trimmer is...........

A ice-cold beer!!!!!

I hear ya.LOL. Even if I get this thing running great,what would I actually
get,when I sold it,like $2o max,right? I'm better off keeping it,and using it
till the piston melts to the cylinder wall,right?LOL. :agree2:

 

[HimWill]

Well,if you've never pulled the screen,I can honestly say that you're 95% certain to find it about unrecognizable as a screen.You will have been through it from stem to stern,no more surprises in store.Run it until it blows up.

 

[DSLDAW]

Well,if you've never pulled the screen,I can honestly say that you're 95% certain to find it about unrecognizable as a screen.You will have been through it from stem to stern,no more surprises in store.Run it until it blows up.

I hear that. Is the screen just tacked in the arrestor,or is it just the screen
acting as the arrestor? Not too familiar with the setups in these little mufflers.
You guys were talking about heating it up,to remove it. Would a dremel get
it out,or will a acetelyne torch be enough to get it off? Don't have an oxy
setup,yet,but I'm sure,once I get the muffler open,I'll figure a way to get the
screen out.Thanks.

 

[HimWill]

Pull the bolts out,remove the plate,it's just sitting there.Just lift it out.You might need to really heat it up if it's as caked up as I think it will be.A propane torch works well.

Really easy to do,they just don't tell you that it needs to be cleaned once in a while.