Fireman Bill
ArboristSite Lurker
Try loosening the gas cap as soon as you cut it off. That may help with warm starting,
Homelite Super 2 - Few Questions
- Thread starter doctorj77
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Fireman Bill
ArboristSite Lurker
I really like mine then the clutch broke. I ordered one from someplace online ($30) and the darn hole for the crankshaft was to big.
kshansen
ArboristSite Operative
I'll try to remember to do that. Guessing pressure in tank is causing flooding?
It looks good on the end shown. Those lines cross on top of the engine back of the carburetor.
Wondering if you installed your new fuel and oil lines while you were replacing the duckbills????
Just replacing a duckbill normally would not upset a start/run.
If you ever replace the oil lines take pictures first and make yourself a witness map.
If you don't pay close attention the lines will just naturally be connected bass ackerds. How do I know this.
I've seen several come to me as freebies and the lines connected up WRONG.
Keep a eye and ear open for spare parts saws. Just because they look same on the outside their are several different versions and one size does not fit all.
I use them as ATV/Jeep trail saws, but I make sure it starts and runs ok BEFORE I take it too the woods. Seems they can sense when they are going to be put to WORK and don't want to work that day.
Just replacing a duckbill normally would not upset a start/run.
If you ever replace the oil lines take pictures first and make yourself a witness map.
If you don't pay close attention the lines will just naturally be connected bass ackerds. How do I know this.
I've seen several come to me as freebies and the lines connected up WRONG.
Keep a eye and ear open for spare parts saws. Just because they look same on the outside their are several different versions and one size does not fit all.
I use them as ATV/Jeep trail saws, but I make sure it starts and runs ok BEFORE I take it too the woods. Seems they can sense when they are going to be put to WORK and don't want to work that day.
Haha, yeah I think it sensed I was going north and decided to give up the ghost.
When I took the power head out of the case, I did replace the oil line (green) that runs to the crank case, added a new air filter, and fuel filter. Ddn't touch anything else as it all looked good. But that's when I noticed both duck-bills were missing, but didn't seem to affect operation. The saw started & ran. Fast-forward a week and I put the duckbills (only) in, now it don't run. It will fire, and run for a sec, but won't stay running.
To be fare, appearances can be deceiving. Yes it looks like it was serviced not too long ago, but I don't know if that was 5, 10, 15yr ago. The fuel lines were not stock, that much I know. But what I do know is the saw was still sitting for a good while. Its entirely possible the carb is just reacting to a aged diaphragm and/or varnish. And could just be mere coincidence when I came along and fired it up ran it, could of been a catalyst finish it off.
I have the parts, I might as well just pull the carb and see what's up, rebuild it
When I took the power head out of the case, I did replace the oil line (green) that runs to the crank case, added a new air filter, and fuel filter. Ddn't touch anything else as it all looked good. But that's when I noticed both duck-bills were missing, but didn't seem to affect operation. The saw started & ran. Fast-forward a week and I put the duckbills (only) in, now it don't run. It will fire, and run for a sec, but won't stay running.
To be fare, appearances can be deceiving. Yes it looks like it was serviced not too long ago, but I don't know if that was 5, 10, 15yr ago. The fuel lines were not stock, that much I know. But what I do know is the saw was still sitting for a good while. Its entirely possible the carb is just reacting to a aged diaphragm and/or varnish. And could just be mere coincidence when I came along and fired it up ran it, could of been a catalyst finish it off.
I have the parts, I might as well just pull the carb and see what's up, rebuild it
Also do not overlook the little champion spark plug.
You said you cleaned that spark plug and it got a run.
Install a new one properly gapped. (them little wimpy champion plugs can sure make a good mechanic look bad and weak upstairs when the wimpy spark plug is overlooked as the last item replaced)
Also when you remove the spark plug take notice if it's wet with fuel. If so install new plug and if it does not start or promise to start give it a small squirt of mixed fuel straight into the carb throat. If no go Crank several times with the throttle wide open to clear a flood.
Sometimes you can let a flooded one of those sit overnight or for about 12 hours and they will start. (crankcase is severely flooded)
You might be correct about the carb but do the basics first
Just do the basic's first.
You said you cleaned that spark plug and it got a run.
Install a new one properly gapped. (them little wimpy champion plugs can sure make a good mechanic look bad and weak upstairs when the wimpy spark plug is overlooked as the last item replaced)
Also when you remove the spark plug take notice if it's wet with fuel. If so install new plug and if it does not start or promise to start give it a small squirt of mixed fuel straight into the carb throat. If no go Crank several times with the throttle wide open to clear a flood.
Sometimes you can let a flooded one of those sit overnight or for about 12 hours and they will start. (crankcase is severely flooded)
You might be correct about the carb but do the basics first
Just do the basic's first.
well made progress for a bit
checked plug, was wet, but for grins replaced it w/spare + gapped it. Checked oil lines, definitely connected right. Checked the fuel line, no blockage, even changed the filter back to the old one. I actually got it started, but took some adjustment of the H/L screw to get it to run right. Once there, set the idle and thought I was done. It idled just fine, made good power. After 10min of running it, I shut it off to see if I could restart it, nope...... back to square one again
when it started, it seemed to run abnormally fast, and would have to take the idle down. I'm wondering if the metering valve in the carb is stuck
checked plug, was wet, but for grins replaced it w/spare + gapped it. Checked oil lines, definitely connected right. Checked the fuel line, no blockage, even changed the filter back to the old one. I actually got it started, but took some adjustment of the H/L screw to get it to run right. Once there, set the idle and thought I was done. It idled just fine, made good power. After 10min of running it, I shut it off to see if I could restart it, nope...... back to square one again
when it started, it seemed to run abnormally fast, and would have to take the idle down. I'm wondering if the metering valve in the carb is stuck
Carb adjustment is changing you say.
I now agree that you probably need to kit the carb.
Pay real close attention to the kit, some kits now days are close but not exact, especially the metering lever diaphragm.
Probably signs of a old dried out carb pump and metering diaphragm inside.
I would probably look at the IPL you said you found in the bottom of the case and see if it shows the carb kit number and look on-line and see if that part number surfaces when searching, but before ordering the kit pull the carb and see if the carb has any ID numbers that will match the carb kit shown. (seeing if the carb on the rig is the OEM one for the kit you are ordering. Seems Homelite made changes to those every time the moon changed phases. I suspect maybe Homelite was going by the Almanac signs (moon phases) when they were building them so as to make some of the changes.
.
I now agree that you probably need to kit the carb.
Pay real close attention to the kit, some kits now days are close but not exact, especially the metering lever diaphragm.
Probably signs of a old dried out carb pump and metering diaphragm inside.
I would probably look at the IPL you said you found in the bottom of the case and see if it shows the carb kit number and look on-line and see if that part number surfaces when searching, but before ordering the kit pull the carb and see if the carb has any ID numbers that will match the carb kit shown. (seeing if the carb on the rig is the OEM one for the kit you are ordering. Seems Homelite made changes to those every time the moon changed phases. I suspect maybe Homelite was going by the Almanac signs (moon phases) when they were building them so as to make some of the changes.
.I did see its a Tillotson. So should be able to find a rebuild kit for HK-16A or near revision. WIll be gone for next couple days so this will officially be next-week's problem. Do appreciate all the advise for things to check out
I'm not sure about the Tillotson carb but saws with the Walbro carb have a little flat valve on the big diaphragm side that when they fail make the saw run as you described. I tried making those valves out of some vinyl material and using a hole puncher but it didn't work too well either. You can buy that valve (assuming Tillotson uses them) for about what the saw is worth.
Tony Mayhew
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Just remember this! Every time you turn the kill switch to the off, how many more times does the piston travel up and down with no electricity to make a spark? But it is still pumping fuel into the cylinder due to the impulse line being pumped or sucking each time the piston goes up or down! Now, where do you think that unburned fuel is going now that the sparkplug is not creating a fire to burn that fuel/oil mixture? Thats right! It gets pushed up into the sparkplug! So, if you think about it, you are fouling the sparkplug to some degree Every single time you turn the switch off! I have learned to stop looking like a dumbass by pulling the rope so many times to get it to run again! And it only gets worse the colder the weather is outside! I have a rule that I only pull the rope four times! And if it doesn't fire up after four pulls, then I turn the kill switch to off, pull the plug, make sure the choke is fully opened and hold the throttle wide open and give it a couple of pulls to get the old fuel and air out of the cylinder and get fresh oxygen in there! Because if there is one thing I can be sure of, that is fire loves oxygen! And always make sure you have enough rope to get a good pull also! 38-41 inches of rope i believe it is? But put as much rope on your pully as you can fit on it without interference. Now, you're always going to get someone on here thats going to get all dermatic and cry out, You can't do that! But I own 138 chainsaws and I have never seen any damage caused by this! I take a propane torch with a brazing tip on it and I just run it around the plug trying to stay away from the ground strap and just get it hot enough to get rid of the wet fuel on the plug and then I spray one very small shot of Berryman choke and carburetor cleaner in the plug hole and get your plug in the hole immediately! Click the switch to ON, pull it like you mean it! While the saw is on the ground, and never drop start your saw! You might get away doing that with an older saw with the metal starter pawls, but any of these newer saws that have plastic pawls and pieces in them you are going to break it by drop starting it! You should have to pull it one, maybe two times and Bam! Your pregnant!
