Homelite Super Mini.

[Colt Marlington]

Looks good. Here's my old Homie I picked up last year on my way home from work at the pawn shop for twenty bucksHad a bunch of oil in the cylinder, and crankcase too maybe. Could hardly pull it over. Washed it out with gas/mix three or four times and she cranked right up. Runs like a champ now but smokes a little bit.

 

[Tom B.]

Yup needs a carb kit. The gasket kit is usually all you need, the full kit around here is usually double the price. It is the hdc, you can confirm this when you get the carb off, which is actually a bit of a pain. The number will be stamped on the side. You need to use a box/open end wrench, and try not to loose the fine wire that holds the choke pull to the carb.
Kits are easy to get, if you don't mind waiting 3 weeks you can get them really cheap at Huztl. Order a couple at least, good to have a spare around when you need it quick.
No impulse line, direct to carb. Try not to tear the base gasket when you take the carb off.

You are a wealth of information. Thank-you very much!
Does the 21-146 on the carb help? It's in one of the pics and thinking about it now I should have typed it in the body of the post.
Sorry about that.

 

[Tom B.]

Looks good. Here's my old Homie I picked up last year on my way home from work at the pawn shop for twenty bucksView attachment 770883Had a bunch of oil in the cylinder, and crankcase too maybe. Could hardly pull it over. Washed it out with gas/mix three or four times and she cranked right up. Runs like a champ now but smokes a little bit.

Wow great find that was ... hydrolocked with oil? lol
I can imagine it'll smoke a bit, but it has been well preserved!

 

[Hoggwood]

So, I got the fuel line, filter today and it still only starts when you dump a bit of gas in the carb.
What carb is this? A Walbro K10-HDC?
I'm new to Homelites and as I look 'under the hood' I don't see an impulse line. Is there one?
Also any spec sheets out there would be great!

View attachment 770852 View attachment 770853 View attachment 770854

That pump diaphram is toast by the looks of one of the curled (check) flaps. It is also missing the screen. Given that, I would suspect the metering circuit under the plate on the metering (other) side could be full of junk. The idle and transition ports will be easy to clean with the plate and metering gasket removed. The metering lever might be staked to the plate, so be really careful not to bend it. There were a few different versions of the HDC. Some earlier ones had a transition port indexed through the throttle shaft that allowed additional impulse to be applied when throttling. You would see an addition impulse port on the rear face of the carb. Those gaskets between the carb and phenolic intake block will likely tear. A new one can be fabricated if needed. The kit ought to have a generic gasket, but make certain it fits properly, as the main impulse port is very close to the edge of the carb body. If it does not line up and seal well, there will be an air leak. I always apply a thin layer of Motoseal on both sides of the gasket. Be very mindful of not cranking down the two bolts into the block. That block can crack around the captive nuts. Make certain the 4 Phillips screws holding the block are snug as well. But, not too snug.

The metering side should have a capillary style check valve on the high speed nozzle. DO NOT use compressed air to blow through or clean it. A quick shot of carb cleaner followed by a rinse shot of WD-40 should suffice. sometimes those checks can curl up from age and the saws will pull air back into the idle circuit during idling. This can cause problems. You can check the integrity of the check by sealing around the screen with a length of fuel line and applying gentle mouth pressure and vacuum. It should pass on pressure and check (seal) on vacuum. That metering circuit does not have independent fuel supplies to the L and H circuits. The H circuit feeds the L. So, it is advisable to set the H and then adjust the L as necessary to obtain proper idle and throttle response. That series of carbs can be finicky to tune, but if they are healthy, provide very good performance.

Pull the carb and open up the other side. If you have questions, take some pics and report back.

 

[Tom B.]

That pump diaphram is toast by the looks of one of the curled (check) flaps. It is also missing the screen. Given that, I would suspect the metering circuit under the plate on the metering (other) side could be full of junk. The idle and transition ports will be easy to clean with the plate and metering gasket removed. The metering lever might be staked to the plate, so be really careful not to bend it. There were a few different versions of the HDC. Some earlier ones had a transition port indexed through the throttle shaft that allowed additional impulse to be applied when throttling. You would see an addition impulse port on the rear face of the carb. Those gaskets between the carb and phenolic intake block will likely tear. A new one can be fabricated if needed. The kit ought to have a generic gasket, but make certain it fits properly, as the main impulse port is very close to the edge of the carb body. If it does not line up and seal well, there will be an air leak. I always apply a thin layer of Motoseal on both sides of the gasket. Be very mindful of not cranking down the two bolts into the block. That block can crack around the captive nuts. Make certain the 4 Phillips screws holding the block are snug as well. But, not too snug.

The metering side should have a capillary style check valve on the high speed nozzle. DO NOT use compressed air to blow through or clean it. A quick shot of carb cleaner followed by a rinse shot of WD-40 should suffice. sometimes those checks can curl up from age and the saws will pull air back into the idle circuit during idling. This can cause problems. You can check the integrity of the check by sealing around the screen with a length of fuel line and applying gentle mouth pressure and vacuum. It should pass on pressure and check (seal) on vacuum. That metering circuit does not have independent fuel supplies to the L and H circuits. The H circuit feeds the L. So, it is advisable to set the H and then adjust the L as necessary to obtain proper idle and throttle response. That series of carbs can be finicky to tune, but if they are healthy, provide very good performance.

Pull the carb and open up the other side. If you have questions, take some pics and report back.

1st time tearing into a 2 stroke, as you could probably tell already. This is all great information, thank-you very much!

 

[Pioneer]

If you are going local to get a kit, take the carb with you. A competent outfit will make sure you get the right one.

 

[ray benson]

You are a wealth of information. Thank-you very much!
Does the 21-146 on the carb help? It's in one of the pics and thinking about it now I should have typed it in the body of the post.
Sorry about that.

Most likely a Walbro HDC carb.

 

[Tom B.]

If you are going local to get a kit, take the carb with you. A competent outfit will make sure you get the right one.

Where do you get yours locally?

 

[Pioneer]

Last time for a carb kit was ABC if I recall correctly, they have been in business for a while and are pretty knowledgeable. The last time I bought Stihl chains were at Ideal, they had a 50 percent off the second chain sale.
Having a spare chain is a good idea if you plan to use it for firewood, it doesn't take much to dull a chain if you ground it or hit dirty wood. If you just use it for a limbing saw, the chain will last quite a while, no hurry to get a spare.

You'll have fun with it when you get it running, they are competent little saws.

 

[Tinman204]

I was going to buy that exact saw but never found the time to go get it.

That is for sure a super mini, an '81 model.

I have the identical saw here that was my fathers, the coil is bad so I was going to buy that saw for parts.

When I was a kid I thought that saw was the coolest thing, I used to stare at it up on the shelf and hope my dad woukd pull it down and fire it up.

 

[Tom B.]

Last time for a carb kit was ABC if I recall correctly, they have been in business for a while and are pretty knowledgeable. The last time I bought Stihl chains were at Ideal, they had a 50 percent off the second chain sale.
Having a spare chain is a good idea if you plan to use it for firewood, it doesn't take much to dull a chain if you ground it or hit dirty wood. If you just use it for a limbing saw, the chain will last quite a while, no hurry to get a spare.

You'll have fun with it when you get it running, they are competent little saws.

Right on, thanks for info.
I went to Cummings on Marion for the fuel line & filter, $8. Ron? perhaps is their Homelite junkie lol. Another guy saw him walk out of the back & said "no, just keep walking, customer is here for parts." He looks over... "oh, yeah yeah" he says.
I ordered a carb kit 'on the fly' last night as it was getting late & I wanted it here by the weekend. So, if it's the wrong one I'll find out when I remove the carb and I'll check out the places you mentioned in the meantime.
If it's wrong, I'll send it back. Then take the carb with me to get a kit locally because I'll have it off already. The timing of it works out at least.
One step closer haha.

 

[Tom B.]

I was going to buy that exact saw but never found the time to go get it.

That is for sure a super mini, an '81 model.

I have the identical saw here that was my fathers, the coil is bad so I was going to buy that saw for parts.

When I was a kid I thought that saw was the coolest thing, I used to stare at it up on the shelf and hope my dad woukd pull it down and fire it up.

This saw? I see you're in MB. This guy was out by Woodridge. Google maps LIE! lol least to me they did this time.
Love the "when I was a kid" story. Sorry to say the coil does work and I'm probably going to keep this though.
I love the thought of this little Super Mini pulling that 16" full house chain. And if all holds true for this one with it's good compression - easily pulling the FH chain.
If I can hold the pull cord handle, lift it up and keep it balanced/straight & shake it up & down while holding the handle & it doesn't move the piston, I'm hoping that's good compression.

 

[Tinman204]

I've run dad's super mini and I will say it has good power for the size of saw that it is. Its not fast but it sure has grunt!

Its more if novelty for me these days, its the saw that started my CAD, unfortunatly carple tunnel in both hands means I cant really hold on to it fir long these days, its a but too vibey for me.

Yeah "woodridge" was a bit out of the way for me, been superbusy lately, havent bought a saw in a couple months.

Glad you picked that one up, I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

 

[Tom B.]

I've run dad's super mini and I will say it has good power for the size of saw that it is. Its not fast but it sure has grunt!

Its more if novelty for me these days, its the saw that started my CAD, unfortunatly carple tunnel in both hands means I cant really hold on to it fir long these days, its a but too vibey for me.

Yeah "woodridge" was a bit out of the way for me, been superbusy lately, havent bought a saw in a couple months.

Glad you picked that one up, I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

You know you're a saw lover when you judge how busy life is by how many saws you've purchased recently lol.
About the carpal tunnel, have you looked into or tried those anti-vibe gloves? I had a pair at another job because the forklift outside was... like a forklift outside! You don't get the tactile feedback/feel like with other gloves but they do knock vibrations down quite a bit.
Yeah, this one is a novelty somewhat, but I will put it to use just because it's a cool old saw that's cool in my opinion.

 

[Tinman204]

You know I've never tried those gloves. I think i should get a pair, these beat up hands are becoming worse and worse.

I trested myself to a heated handle 044 for this winter, I'm thinking my hands will like it!!

 

[Tom B.]

Yup needs a carb kit. The gasket kit is usually all you need, the full kit around here is normally double the price. Yetmans, Abc, Ideal, should have them, but call first for availability/prices. It is the hdc, you can confirm this when you get the carb off, which is actually a bit of a pain. The number will be stamped on the side. You need to use a box/open end wrench, and try not to loose the fine wire that holds the choke pull to the carb.
Kits are easy to get, if you don't mind waiting 3 weeks you can get them really cheap at Huztl. Order a couple at least, good to have a spare around when you need it quick.
No impulse line, direct to carb. Try not to tear the base gasket when you take the carb off.
That aside, did it come with 3/8 or .325 chain? The former cuts faster, but the latter is smoother. You can also run a rim drum/sprocket on them, this opens up your options.

Sorry, I missed the part when you asked which chain it came with.
It's a Stihl 3/8.

 

[Pioneer]

Same as what I use on the xl-1, looks pretty new too. As long as you keep it out of dirty wood it will hold an edge for quite a while. I find the stock raker height suits the saw well.

 

[Tom B.]

We Have Ignition!
And LOTS of fuel.


Went through the carb the other day, no bueno, wouldn't start unless I put fuel in the carb. A little fed up, frustrated I walked away from it for a day or so.
Today it popped in my head that maybe, just maybe someone messed around with the carb settings. So I turned them all the way in to seat & back out 1 turn.
Bugger fired & ran 1st pull!!! Kept it sort of running with the throttle while I reached for the screwdriver for the needles. Then proceeded to stop & not start again lol.
Totally flooded, fuel coming out the muffler, the carb area had a big puddle of gas (in pics). Spark plug was washed, center electrode is rounded, so a new Champion CJ8 tomorrow.
This saw is somewhat different than the Stihl for setting the carb like Cory (hoggwood) said. I have to look into the carb set up for this red headed stepchild now.
But it ran!
Setting the "H" not the "HI" 1st and then the "LO" because it feeds off the H circuit. Hmmmm

Thanks to all that have advised me on this! One step closer...

 

[Tom B.]

Took my mind off this one for a bit while I worked on the Mac & the Stihl. Lots of exploring the saws, investigating, manuals, familiarization, cleaning etc.
Today I got back on to to carb & setting it.
It idles!!!
Now just to get out to a friends & some lumber to run the Mini & the Stihl in some wood, tweek & see how they do.

 

[HarleyCVO]

Picked up a real old Homie today. Owner said it starts when he adds gas to the carb but doesn't stay running.
1st things I thought of were fuel delivery and/or exhaust issues, possibly the carb needs a rubber, so to speak. It needs a fuel cap, unless the OEM one is supposed to leak when it's on it's left side.
Muffler is clean & clear, piston is a bit brown on the side, like old varnished, gummed up gas & oil (hoping that's it).
I have no idea if the clutch is ok.
Good compression pulling the rope.
It does start, so there's spark.
Have to tear into it this weekend & see what the fuel lines look like & the filter.
Chain oiler works.
Nice n light, compact, pretty good for limbing I think. There are no dawgs on this though,

$30 plus the 3 hour round trip to ... out that way on the highway to this road & then down this road 3 miles, turn left then right & past the cows to the ... you get the idea.
So, for what I paid & the impending work to follow, what do you think? What are your ideas about this Canadian classic?

View attachment 768236 View attachment 768237 View attachment 768238 View attachment 768239 View attachment 768240 View attachment 768241

Bi

Picked up a real old Homie today. Owner said it starts when he adds gas to the carb but doesn't stay running.
1st things I thought of were fuel delivery and/or exhaust issues, possibly the carb needs a rubber, so to speak. It needs a fuel cap, unless the OEM one is supposed to leak when it's on it's left side.
Muffler is clean & clear, piston is a bit brown on the side, like old varnished, gummed up gas & oil (hoping that's it).
I have no idea if the clutch is ok.
Good compression pulling the rope.
It does start, so there's spark.
Have to tear into it this weekend & see what the fuel lines look like & the filter.
Chain oiler works.
Nice n light, compact, pretty good for limbing I think. There are no dawgs on this though,

$30 plus the 3 hour round trip to ... out that way on the highway to this road & then down this road 3 miles, turn left then right & past the cows to the ... you get the idea.
So, for what I paid & the impending work to follow, what do you think? What are your ideas about this Canadian classic?

View attachment 768236 View attachment 768237 View attachment 768238 View attachment 768239 View attachment 768240 View attachment 768241

I also have a Super Mini. Does anyone know what spark plug is compatible other than the Champion RDJ6J? I cannot find this Champion plug anywhere on Amazon or other sites. Thx, Ed - Salmon Arm, BC