Homelite Super XL-925 Project w/ Pics

[blsnelling]

Why throw the steel line away?

 

[stinkbait]

Why throw the steel line away?

One continuous tygon line is better than a three piece. I didn't actually throw it away, but it's not on there anymore.

 

[epicklein22]

Calvin, you gonna sell us some 925 parts for a dollar, or whatever discount you were talking about?

Stinkbait, nice saw!!!

 

[stinkbait]

Calvin, you gonna sell us some 925 parts for a dollar, or whatever discount you were talking about?

Stinkbait, nice saw!!!

No offense, but don't rush the man, he is only human. I'm sure you and I aren't the only two people he has to worry about.

Thanks! I think this saw turned out to be a dang good one.

 

[Brmorgan]

A foot of Tygon for a buck? Hook me up with your source! At my local dealer it's 29¢ per INCH! +1 on its durability though, it's still worth the money.

 

[stinkbait]

A foot of Tygon for a buck? Hook me up with your source! At my local dealer it's 29¢ per INCH! +1 on its durability though, it's still worth the money.

I get the yellow tygon, any size, at my local True Value hardware store for a dollar a foot.

 

[stinkbait]

Saw Update

Last night I blocked the governor valve off again. Got the saw tuned right and it cut like crazy. I cut up a small maple just to cycle some gas through it. While cutting smoke started rolling out from around the clutch cover. I cut the saw off and noticed some alluminum shavings on my boots. Come to find out, two of the screws in the clutch retaining plate backed out and started grinding into my clutch cover. It almost eat completely through the cover. Somehow this made one of my clutch pads come off one of the three shoes. Man I was pissed. Now I know why I see 925s for sale with a round hole cut in the clutch cover. Do you really need the plate? Now I have to buy a new clutch shoe. Do I need to buy all three shoes or will the clutch work fine with two old ones and one new one? Other than this incident the saw is great.

 

[bob-o52]

That tygon and grommet method is a good idea. I used it to build a fuel line for a XL 700. Smaller OD to fit the tank, larger OD to seal the carb box and fit the Tilly inlet, then spliced the two with a brass barb fitting, seems to work OK.
I tried the one size method but couldn't't get the carb end to stretch enough to fit the turd shaped inlet fitting on a Tillotson carb without splitting.

 

[stinkbait]

I tried the one size method but couldn't't get the carb end to stretch enough to fit the turd shaped inlet fitting on a Tillotson carb without splitting.

I used a tapered center puch to stretch the tygon for a minute and then quickly slid it onto the tillotson carb.

 

[John in MA]

Hey, look what I found. I really need to get new pics of this saw--nine-year-old photo scans don't look that great these days.

Oh yeah, mine very nearly has the clutch cover worn through. Standard "feature" with these saws. The only other thing wrong with it is that the handlebar was originally a full-wrap that someone cut the outboard half off of. I really need to get a new one.

 

[stinkbait]

Hey, look what I found. I really need to get new pics of this saw--nine-year-old photo scans don't look that great these days.

Oh yeah, mine very nearly has the clutch cover worn through. Standard "feature" with these saws. The only other thing wrong with it is that the handlebar was originally a full-wrap that someone cut the outboard half off of. I really need to get a new one.

That's a nice saw. I wish mine had the full wrap handle and some more paint.

 

[Brmorgan]

I frequently use the business end of a pair of needle-nose or snap ring pliers to temporarily stretch fuel line ends. I just insert the tips and then spread them apart. Outer snap ring pliers work the best since the tips open when you squeeze the handles, other types you have to pull the handles apart which isn't as easy. I like the taper punch idea though, I'll have to try that sometime.