Sold my husky 365 last fall because I don't need a saw that big. Bad choice. I only need something for camping, occasional firewood cutting. But I don't like junk and can't afford anything new or even close to New. I was looking at a homelite super 2 and homelite 150 but upon further review I don't think they are what I am after (reliable, tough without being gigantic). What do you all think about this? https://boise.craigslist.org/tls/d/mountain-home-homelite-super-xl/6949672600.html
Homelite Super XL. Worth it?
- Thread starter KTM300
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Do not EXPECT it too be trouble free. (from experience buying and owning old Homelite saws)
When I want to get a pile of wood cut fast I reach for my Stihl saws.
I have one with a lot of use from the early 1970s, still runs/cuts, never had to take engine or carb apart, yet.
reed valve motor has lots of mid range power for a 60cc saw.
No AV, wear some good gloves
reed valve motor has lots of mid range power for a 60cc saw.
No AV, wear some good gloves
Matt93eg
ArboristSite Operative
I have one of the super XL old blue models. I haven’t ran it much as it continues to boil the fuel In the tank no matter what I have done. It runs good for 10 mins or so then starts acting up. I haven’t played with it lately but when I need to get work done it is not the saw I choose.
Not knocking the saw. I’m sure there not all like mine.
Not knocking the saw. I’m sure there not all like mine.
champion221elite
ArboristSite Operative
I love my Super XL. Its not the fastest saw I own or most fuel efficient. Its is however the loudest and has the most vibration. I wouldn't trade it for the world though. It was my grandpa's old saw and for that it has a permanent place in my rotation. For 75 bucks, I would buy it for sure.
A couple years ago I sold one on Ebay. It was about as mint as you could get. It still had all the Homelite paint on the bar and looked almost new and ran good. If I remember correctly it brought $125. THe saw in the pic if it runs good maybe $75 as said above. They are heavy, slow, easy to crack the case.
Starts acting up after 10 min's. (just a hint)
Could be several things, but one of the first things I check on them is the 4 stud nuts that hold the jug to the case. This is usually overlooked if not aware of such and when I get a used Homie saw it is the first thing I check even if the saw is running ok.
All else can be good but if they are little bit loose she will get erratic and will eventually ruin the gasket.
No need in rebuilding other stuff until these are checked. If they are really loose and tightening them does no good it's time to pressure/vac test the gasket at this area.
I've got a Super EZ plus that is 40 years old and one carb re-build, plus I have some others Homelites and I do not think anything about it if one starts getting erratic running or idling. It's just wants your attention little bit TLC.
Homelite made good saws and once tuned up are reliable. Make sure you pull the muffler before buying. A lot of the small homelites like the ez have very high compression. I bought one once that felt like the compression was good but the piston was scored to hell one the exhaust side
On the Super XL`s the electronic module/coil is a prone failure point, replacements though are now easy to find AM but still a bit pricey. I have had truckloads of them here, my late FIL cut with them commercially for 30 years or so.
Matt93eg
ArboristSite Operative
Starts acting up after 10 min's. (just a hint)
Could be several things, but one of the first things I check on them is the 4 stud nuts that hold the jug to the case. This is usually overlooked if not aware of such and when I get a used Homie saw it is the first thing I check even if the saw is running ok.
All else can be good but if they are little bit loose she will get erratic and will eventually ruin the gasket.
No need in rebuilding other stuff until these are checked. If they are really loose and tightening them does no good it's time to pressure/vac test the gasket at this area.
I've got a Super EZ plus that is 40 years old and one carb re-build, plus I have some others Homelites and I do not think anything about it if one starts getting erratic running or idling. It's just wants your attention little bit TLC.
I will check those for sure. Thank you.
Thanks for all the feedback folks. I really appreciate it and am looking forward to picking up the saw this weekend. My thoughts are to put a 16" bar on it and have one mean camping saw. I will give my first impressions of the saw shortly.
I love my SXL and the only complaint is vibration in hands/arms if you run more than a tankful of fuel in an outing. I put nearly 2 gallons through mine in the past week and can feel it LOL.
As Jerry mentioned, the mid production SXL's with the blue module (coil) are very prone to failure. The older points ignition saws and the newer electronic ignition saws are nearly bulletproof. They made a zillion of these saws though so if you did have a blue module saw that failed you could either buy the replacement coil (about 55 bucks) or find a parts saw with either the early or late model ignition to swap out.
BTW that manual they are offering is for a different model of Homelite saw but I am sure that does not matter in the big picture.
Enjoy the saw and post up if you have any issues, someone will be able to help you!
As Jerry mentioned, the mid production SXL's with the blue module (coil) are very prone to failure. The older points ignition saws and the newer electronic ignition saws are nearly bulletproof. They made a zillion of these saws though so if you did have a blue module saw that failed you could either buy the replacement coil (about 55 bucks) or find a parts saw with either the early or late model ignition to swap out.
BTW that manual they are offering is for a different model of Homelite saw but I am sure that does not matter in the big picture.
Enjoy the saw and post up if you have any issues, someone will be able to help you!
Check if cooling system is full of sawdust/gunk. Flywheel area and cyl fins.
My super blue Homelite XL is the loudest chain saw that I own. Neighbors complain whenever I start it just to see if it still runs. Yes, it still runs hard, but the crack in the bar oil tank lets it poop oil beyond belief after I shut it off. Sealing that crack with JB Weld failed. So, it sits on the shelf, waitnig to be shown at a GTG as a classic.
On the other hand, here is a red Homelite XL that I restored two years ago, and it runs flawlessly:
On the other hand, here is a red Homelite XL that I restored two years ago, and it runs flawlessly:
I have always ran a 20" with 3/8" chain on mine, they could run longer bars but a 20" does all I need one for.
Most of mine has a 16 inch bar. In your pictures it kinda looks like maybe a 20 on that one, but it appears to be a low kickback chain designed for Nancy's and Pansies. I would just get a good low kickback chain assuming the existing bar is good when I got ready to put it too work. (take a look at the sprocket before installing a new chain)
Just keep the low kickback as a spare. I've made them low kickback chains cut good (for myself only) by filing off the low kickback guards. Oh my, what a no no.
Matt93eg
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah I did that a while back. It was caked with grime. I cleaned all that off and still did it. I need to go out and run it again when it gets cooler out and see how it does.
It will pull a 20 no problem, but depends on what size wood you will be cutting. I have a 16 and 20 for mine.
