homelite super xl worth ressurecting????

[pops21]

Sounds like its too rich. Let it sit tonight and try it in the morning. What is a L needle set too? I would try 1 turn out from lightly seated on both of them as a starting point.

 

[avason]

Sounds like its too rich. Let it sit tonight and try it in the morning. What is a L needle set too? I would try 1 turn out from lightly seated on both of them as a starting point.

I've played with the l and h for the past few days. To rich means to much fuel and not enough oil right. The only thing I did differently was changing the fuel type. Every time I let it sit overnight it does the same thing. Fuel mixture??
:monkey::monkey::monkey::monkey::monkey::monkey::monkey::monkey:

 

[pops21]

To rich is to much fuel. Might want to check the gap on the plug. Even though your getting spark it might no be enough. Also check the compression. Maybe someone else could give some pointers.

 

[DSS]

Going from 32-1 to 50-1 won't make a difference. You have carb trouble most likely. Put a kit in it, it's not that hard, cause I can do it !!!!

 

[buzz sawyer]

Your not going to believe this gentleman...I just picked up another homie super xl auto. I'll have pictures up tomorrow. This saw is complete with bar and chain. Brought it home and she fired right up. Had a hard time tuning the girl in. Next day the thing wouldn't fire up at all...it would sporatically pop and stop on me. Took the thing apart so many times that I lost count. Took the fly wheel cover off and even took the flywheel of to clean the points. I have no idea why i did this because I had spark the entire time. Anyway she's sick and won't start. i took the fuel line out checked it and she's good. She's def getting fuel because every time I go to start her theres fuel coming out of the muffler. WTF!
The only thing I can think of is that the guy that I picked it up from used 32 to fuel and I'm using 50 to 1. I just thought of that tonight sitting here pondering all of my options. It is funny that it ran when I brought it home then it wouldn't even start.
I have a really hard time believing that fuel would have this much of an effect. Am I wrong??

By the way guys thanks for hanging around. I've been using the first homie to practice on. I still want to get that thing going. :greenchainsaw:

Had a similar problem with the XL12 I just built. I had several coil/points assemblies from other saws I tore down and just switched one out - started & runs fine.

 

[avason]

Pics

There she is!

Just wish she woul run!

 

[avason]

Had a similar problem with the XL12 I just built. I had several coil/points assemblies from other saws I tore down and just switched one out - started & runs fine.

You think that even if I have spark I still have coil/points problems? Just wondering. I heard that there are ignition modules that eliminate the points coil thing. Is that true???
:bang:

 

[Eccentric]

Your not going to believe this gentleman...I just picked up another homie super xl auto. I'll have pictures up tomorrow. This saw is complete with bar and chain. Brought it home and she fired right up. Had a hard time tuning the girl in. Next day the thing wouldn't fire up at all...it would sporatically pop and stop on me. Took the thing apart so many times that I lost count. Took the fly wheel cover off and even took the flywheel of to clean the points. I have no idea why i did this because I had spark the entire time. Anyway she's sick and won't start. i took the fuel line out checked it and she's good. She's def getting fuel because every time I go to start her theres fuel coming out of the muffler. WTF!
The only thing I can think of is that the guy that I picked it up from used 32 to fuel and I'm using 50 to 1. I just thought of that tonight sitting here pondering all of my options. It is funny that it ran when I brought it home then it wouldn't even start.
I have a really hard time believing that fuel would have this much of an effect. Am I wrong??

By the way guys thanks for hanging around. I've been using the first homie to practice on. I still want to get that thing going. :greenchainsaw:

Going from 32-1 to 50-1 won't make a difference. You have carb trouble most likely. Put a kit in it, it's not that hard, cause I can do it !!!!

Your problem isn't with the ignition system. I'd bet on that. The fuel line and/or the carb diaphragms probably gave up the gost. Seen that happen with old equipment that's been sitting for a while. Add fresh gas and she lights and runs OK for a bit. Sits overnight, then won't go anymore. Happened with my old Mac35A. The sickly diaphragms just gave out.

Since you've got gas commin' out the muffler, then there's a good chance that crap from within the fuel line has rotted away and made its way into the carb, keeping the needle/seat from closing. The diaphragms are probably shot too. You're just gonna have flush out the fuel tank, replace the fuel line (even though it looks OK), and put a kit in the carb. No way around it.

That year Super XL should have a Tillotson HS, but may have a Walbro SDC. The Walbro will have "Homelite" (and probably also "SDC") stamped into the top cover of the carb. The Tillotson kit will be RK23-HS. The SDC kit will be K10-SDC. Buy a kit and some line from one of the site sponsors.

 

[Eccentric]

Ok I'm now back from vacation. The parts that I have for avason are off a XL-12. Mainly the carb and reed cage. For the life of me I can't find the carb model number. There are numbers on it but non match up with carb numbers on chainsaw collectors corner. If the XL-12 carb and reed block will work on a xl-super then I will send it out to him. I just need to know if it will and what model # my carb is.

The carb will interchange. As far as the reed block is concerned.....well that depends on your XL12. A "regular" XL12 has a single reed setup. That uses a different reed block, and a different upper handle/carb box assembly than the SXL.

An SXL has a four pedal pyramid reed system. Uses a different reed block and a upper handle/carb box assembly that's specific to the SXL. Some late XL12 saws have the pyramid reed setup, with all of those SXL parts. The 'regular' XL12 setup can be used on an SXL if you swap the upper handle/carb box at the same time.

 

[avason]

Your problem isn't with the ignition system. I'd bet on that. The fuel line and/or the carb diaphragms probably gave up the gost. Seen that happen with old equipment that's been sitting for a while. Add fresh gas and she lights and runs OK for a bit. Sits overnight, then won't go anymore. Happened with my old Mac35A. The sickly diaphragms just gave out.

Since you've got gas commin' out the muffler, then there's a good chance that crap from within the fuel line has rotted away and made its way into the carb, keeping the needle/seat from closing. The diaphragms are probably shot too. You're just gonna have flush out the fuel tank, replace the fuel line (even though it looks OK), and put a kit in the carb. No way around it.

That year Super XL should have a Tillotson HS, but may have a Walbro SDC. The Walbro will have "Homelite" (and probably also "SDC") stamped into the top cover of the carb. The Tillotson kit will be RK23-HS. The SDC kit will be K10-SDC. Buy a kit and some line from one of the site sponsors.

I took the carb apart and it looked pretty clean..the diaphrams weren't ripped at all or cracked or anything. Either way I'll order a build kit. It just bothers me thinkin the only thing I did different from when I got it was change the fuel mixture. I rebuild and see what happens....BTW..The fuel line is kind of spongy but there aren't any holes in it or tears. It does have a Tillotson carb on it.

 

[Eccentric]

I took the carb apart and it looked pretty clean..the diaphrams weren't ripped at all or cracked or anything. Either way I'll order a build kit. It just bothers me thinkin the only thing I did different from when I got it was change the fuel mixture. I rebuild and see what happens....BTW..The fuel line is kind of spongy but there aren't any holes in it or tears. It does have a Tillotson carb on it.

If the fuel line is spongy then definitely replace it. The modern crap gas we have now softens the lines and erodes them from the inside. It just takes one little 'crumb' of fuel line goo to hold the needle off the seat enough to flood out the saw. When you took the carb apart, did you see any fine black powder/sand looking stuff? Was the gas in the carb colored grey? Dead giveaways for rotting fuel lines. Even if you didn't see the stuff, you'll still wanna replace the line if it's spongy. Flush the tank out well and replace the filter too. Cheap insurance...

 

[lawnmowertech37]

I took the carb apart and it looked pretty clean..the diaphrams weren't ripped at all or cracked or anything. Either way I'll order a build kit. It just bothers me thinkin the only thing I did different from when I got it was change the fuel mixture. I rebuild and see what happens....BTW..The fuel line is kind of spongy but there aren't any holes in it or tears. It does have a Tillotson carb on it.

Im a small company compared to the big boys and depend on internet sales to put food on the table and to pay bills keep this in mind when looking for Homelite parts
Next year sometime i will be a homelite superstore online

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Glad to see another one rescued. The XL12/SXL-AO family of saws are the greatest, most influencial saw design of all time. They still are repsectable performers, although they're louder, vibrate more, and are slower than the 'modern' stuff. They're as reliable as a claw hammer, and just about perfect for 'general' firewood cutting. Mine are my 'go to' saws. Homelite also made brushcutters, water pumps, demo saws, and circular saws with this basic powerhead.

With the style of decal on the starter cover on your saw, and the all plastic oiler button, I'd say that is a late production SXL-AO. Probably somewhere in the '80s. Ignitions, flywheels, starter parts, and some minor bits (such as that oiler button) changed throughout the decade, but they're basicaly the same thing from 1963 thru 1994 when they stopped production. Yes that's over thirty years! Homelite 'replaced' this family with 'more modern' saws......yet those 'replacements' only lasted a few years, while the XL12/SXL family kept on truckin'. The Serial # on your saw can be deciphered as to production year/month. There's a thread somewhere here on AS that covers that...

There is absolutely no 'set time' when Homelite 'switched' from blue to red. The never 'completely switched' at all. The first Homelite chainsaws (in the early '50s) were red and black. Since then, Homelites have been made in various shades of red, black, green, blue, white, and various combinations of the above. Most of the 'upright cylinder' gear drive and direct drive Homelites of the '50s and '60s were red, or red and green. Some were blue (such as the Zip and Wiz). The C7/C71/C72/C9/C91 saws (started production in 1965) were always red, with some green parts (AF cover, starter, clutch cover) thrown in from time to time. That was during the same time period that the C5/C51/C52 were all blue. As far as the XL12/SXL saws go.......................well the first ones were blue/white.

Sometime in the late sixties they started making them in red and black. Most of the XL12/SXL saws were painted this way.......................and that's where the "general rule" comes from I imagine. Towards the end of the run (1980-something) they made a few XL12's and SXL-AO's in all-blue, with black decals. The blue is a bit different from the original blue color. Some of these saws were labled as "XL Limited" (or something similar, with "Limited" in the name, and "Old Blue".

Your piston looks like some scratches are starting on it. Maybe some grit got past the AF. The carb box looks pretty sandy in the pics. If the cylinder's still good, it won't be for long if there's grit in there. Better carefuly tear it down and clean things up. Yor saw should be 5.5ci/58cc. It uses the same bar as all of the XL family saws such as the XL12/SXL/XL15series, XL400, XL500, XL700/XL800/XL900series, and the 550/650/750 saws. That's NOT the same pattern as the XL2/Super2/Bandit series, the E-Z/Super EZ, the XL100series, or the current crappo 'homelite' box-store saws). Bars are available from Baileys, who is a site sponsor.

Great info, thanks, rep for ye...

 

[Ax-man]

I'll help out a little.

This is definatly a point ignition saw. The points are under that cover with the spring clip over it. Points are very seldom bad. If they are pitted bad they don't work good and need to be replaced. The most common problem with points is they get dirty from carbon build up and need the contact surfaces cleaned. A weak or poor condenser on the other hand can give you fits from no spark at all, hard starting, poor running after the saw fires or runs erratic. An ignition module will cure these problems if good parts aren't readily available. Coils very seldom go bad but they do.

The gas coming out the muffler is a problem with the inlet needle not seating. Either the metering lever is not set right or the needle has a bad seal on the bottom of it. A pressure test on the carb is the best way to test for a bad needle, leaking gaskets or welsh plugs not sealing.

Looking at the first pictures in the thread. The piston is very scored. Judging by the amount of carbon deposits around the exhaust port the rings aren't sealing to good and letting fuel get by them. This saw is probaly low on compression which could be another reason it won't fire up.

I will go along with the majority opinion that has surfaced throughout this thread that the Homelite XL is by far the most poular saw ever produced and is rock solid in performance. They make great first time saw projects for the novice. I have had many of these saws myself over the years and they teach the basics for saw tinkering because of their simplistic design. I still have a few of these saws around in my collection and some for parts.

 

[avason]

I'll help out a little.

This is definatly a point ignition saw. The points are under that cover with the spring clip over it. Points are very seldom bad. If they are pitted bad they don't work good and need to be replaced. The most common problem with points is they get dirty from carbon build up and need the contact surfaces cleaned. A weak or poor condenser on the other hand can give you fits from no spark at all, hard starting, poor running after the saw fires or runs erratic. An ignition module will cure these problems if good parts aren't readily available. Coils very seldom go bad but they do.

The gas coming out the muffler is a problem with the inlet needle not seating. Either the metering lever is not set right or the needle has a bad seal on the bottom of it. A pressure test on the carb is the best way to test for a bad needle, leaking gaskets or welsh plugs not sealing.

Looking at the first pictures in the thread. The piston is very scored. Judging by the amount of carbon deposits around the exhaust port the rings aren't sealing to good and letting fuel get by them. This saw is probaly low on compression which could be another reason it won't fire up.

I will go along with the majority opinion that has surfaced throughout this thread that the Homelite XL is by far the most poular saw ever produced and is rock solid in performance. They make great first time saw projects for the novice. I have had many of these saws myself over the years and they teach the basics for saw tinkering because of their simplistic design. I still have a few of these saws around in my collection and some for parts.

Thank you everyone for the help..I will rebuild the carb and when I am done I will post pics and a video. It may be a while. We are getting a puppy this weekend and that is going to keep me :censored:ing busy!

 

[sefh3]

What I find wrong with these saws, is the mixture is 32:1. The carb and lines get stuck full of oil. Over time they sit and the gas evaporate leaving the oil sitting. Rebuild the carb, install new fuel lines, and filter and readjust the carb to run 50:1. Keep us posted. These are one of the most reliable saws around. A million made, and a still being used today.

 

[avason]

Bad news

I couldn't give her the care she needed. I brought her to an excellent mechanic down the road from me. He can give the care she needs. She is still sick and bleeding fuel from the muffler. Wish her luck!LOL

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I picked up another XL12 at the flea markets today. This one is probably gonna be a parts saw for another one of mine unless it's the better one. Anyway, I'm gonna try to make another one from a pile of parts.

 

[avason]

I picked up another XL12 at the flea markets today. This one is probably gonna be a parts saw for another one of mine unless it's the better one. Anyway, I'm gonna try to make another one from a pile of parts.

That is awesome!! What did you get it for??

 

[a. palmer jr.]

That is awesome!! What did you get it for??

Ten bucks! It's not totally complete but I just needed a few parts to complete another one and they're on it. Actually the only parts missing were the chain and the little metal piece that connects the top bar to the saw. It cleaned up pretty well.