Homelite XL one of Textron top handle ones

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I have 4 of those I hope to tear down and make 2 runners. Maybe even 3. They are fun because they are so cheap. All 4 were just given to me. So even if I put a few bucks in them still a real cheap saw. Worst part of mine, no bars or chains. Bummer
 
this tank leaks too up top near the cap when I had it apart I saw it leaking pretty good. I will check in tomorrow been sick all weekend I think I may have an upper respiratory infection and a wicked sore throat so I am heading to bed thanks for the help nite all.
 
this tank leaks too up top near the cap when I had it apart I saw it leaking pretty good. I will check in tomorrow been sick all weekend I think I may have an upper respiratory infection and a wicked sore throat so I am heading to bed thanks for the help nite all.
Probably not the tank, might be same as mine, that duck bill valve that sticks into the tank up toward the top. You can see it when you take the starter off.
 
Notice how round that hole was? It was made at the factory, the duckbill valve just pokes into that hole. The other valve is on the end of the pulse line coming from the crankcase to the oil tank and can be seen by taking off the oil cap, it's on the end of the upper hose. Most of the duckbills wear out with age or disappear. Luckily they're easy to find and not too expensive..
 
Here's a pic of the $10 XL I bought last weekend. I did clean it up a bit but that's about it.XL-1.JPG I painted the bar red since it had a red bar on it to start with. I thought about painting the rest of the saw but think I'll leave it alone..
 
Yours are all Super 2s which are supposed to be a little bigger in ccs than my XL. My other one is a Super 2 but I'm not sure about the engine, it came from my scrap engine pile, I do know it's a Homelite though..Looks like you can probably get a couple of them going.
 
there used to be a website called houseofhomelite.com it had several guys on there keeping these old classics running.there were even guys there that had bought out old stock from dealers when they were closing and are now selling nos.parts.
The website is still there and yes Im a member. There are several selling NOS parts, but im not one of them.
 
Just for kicks I bought an XL like we're talking about at a flea market Saturday. Cost me all of $10. The owner told me he bought another one of them for parts because the fuel tank leaked on the one I bought. I knew it probably just had the duck bill valve in the gas tank missing and I was right. The oiler also didn't work and I already knew what was wrong with it by looking into the oil tank at the cap, the duckbill valve was missing there too plus the oil tank gasket was missing also. I pulled the motor today and repaired all of the above and now it runs pretty good and also oils the chain. This one has the short bar, 10 inches or 12. The oiler probably is a little too good for that short of a bar..I can always slightly loosen the cap..
I might mention also that this saw will also continue to oil after the engine is shut off because the oil tank is still pressurized but you can take the cap off to relieve the pressure and stop the oil down..
About half that I find also have the oil lines crossed, causing chain oil to be sucked into the crankcase. (which also happens if the duckbill is missing, even if the lines are correct).

They make a check valve to prevent oiling after the saw is shut off, the part number eludes me at the moment though....
 
For what its worth I checked the compression this morning, it is between 100# and 105#. I tried to start it first though and it spit fuel all over my feet from the exhaust it is flooded badly from yesterday. In any case I don't think 100# is enough to start and run well . So as far as I am concerned and him too I imagine she may be all done. Thanks for the responses though have a good weekend . Jeff
Cylinder pressure on these saws was only 115-145 per Homelite Service manual. If your using a automotive tester its probably reading low. Clear cylinder of all fuel, use a new plug gapped at .025 (or a little less) and no chain oil in the oil tank. (if duckbill is missing, oil lines incorrect or other oiling issues). For this series of saws, especially if you have never worked on them before, its always better to get it running first without chain oil in the oil tank.
 
Heres a saw I just recently finished. I have way more in the bar and chain then I do in the saw (which are new ). One that most people miss is the filter for the gas tank duckbill. It keeps the duckbill in and sawdust out of the duckbill. They were originally attached to the recoil housing. Since replacements are impossible to find I just use a old but clean air filter, or a new air filter cut to size. Just place over duckbill and install recoil housing.




 
Thanks for the info. Very informative and going to help a lot when I rebuild my saws. One of them I know has oil sucked into the crankcase. Didn't make it run good, but did an amazing job of storing the saw. Insides look great.
 
My gas tank hole is not like the one in the photo I don't think . If I recall it looked like an ice pick did the job and in a different location. I will have to look someday. I guarantee if I find one up here at a yard sale they will want $50 bucks min. Nothing is cheap here in Maine.
 
Where can I get a few of those duck bill things one for my oil tank and a couple for my gas caps?

Waiting on Jesus
 
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