Homelite XL1 Automatic?

[Dave Alderson]

Well... oologahan.. you have gotten off to a hot start... I re condition and or restore them more than collect them. I find it funny that Homelite’s are my favourite.. In that they are by far the most complicated to tear down.. in most cases.. but are also the easiest to locate nearly any part for... I just restored a Pioneer 1074. Much simpler design. But hard to locate parts for. Even just a bar or air filter was a challenge. But it turned out well. I had to cut off the bar studs and re tap to to larger studs.. as they are permanently cast into the body.. seemed crazy to me but.. it was a known issue in the day. But the owner has his saw, that was a wedding gift in 1978... Running and cutting better than new... Gives one a warm feeling lol...

 

[Dave Alderson]

 

[oologahan]

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I restore them too, I'm just getting started on my fou rth one

 

[Dave Alderson]

Boy... that’s beautiful work... Do you sand blast, or bead blast the bodies before painting. In the many I have brought back to life so to speak, I have not painted any. Just got them mechanically sound again. How do you reproduce the decals.. or is there a source for them... Again very nice work.

 

[oologahan]

Boy... that’s beautiful work... Do you sand blast, or bead blast the bodies before painting. In the many I have brought back to life so to speak, I have not painted any. Just got them mechanically sound again. How do you reproduce the decals.. or is there a source for them... Again very nice work.

I hand sand the paint off and get about 90 percent off, about the only medium you can safely use on magnesium is walnut hulls, but I do not like blasting stuff into the metal, it does embed walnut dust into the metal. I use a very strong tri-sodium phosphate cleaner mixed with green 7th generation dish soap and distilled water to remove oils and grease. with a couple of coats of lacquer sanding primer I can fill any nicks body putty wont fill and then I use a industrial alkyd oil base enamel thinned with VM&P Naphtha with a poly converter as a hardener. A two part matte epoxy clear coat completes the finish that will make it oil and gas resistant. The decals come from sugar creek supply.

 

[Dave Alderson]

No wonder your painting looks so good... And thank you for the tip on decals. I checked out their site.. I love the idea that they will reproduce near any decal with some help from you...

 

[Juggalosmurf]

The girlfriend just had a homelite xl1 given to her and she brought me to use. It's been cleaned out and new gas(32:1) and oil put in. I'm finding that no matter where I turn the little screw dials, the chain either continues to spin regardless of trigger, or it stalls out. Any tips or pointers on getting it to run right? I'm new to chainsaws in general as no one ever trusted me with one(I think they thought I'd pull a Leatherface)

 

[undee70ss]

The girlfriend just had a homelite xl1 given to her and she brought me to use. It's been cleaned out and new gas(32:1) and oil put in. I'm finding that no matter where I turn the little screw dials, the chain either continues to spin regardless of trigger, or it stalls out. Any tips or pointers on getting it to run right? I'm new to chainsaws in general as no one ever trusted me with one(I think they thought I'd pull a Leatherface)

The carb may be partially plugged with old dried gas (varnish) or has a air leak, crank seals, a gasket somewhere ect..

 

[Juggalosmurf]

The carb may be partially plugged with old dried gas (varnish) or has a air leak, crank seals, a gasket somewhere ect..

That's what I was partially thinking but she had a friend take it apart and clean everything. Seals are old and were dry but they seem to have plumped up after having oil and fuel in it.
Had my grandfather who has a ton of experience falling and bucking, to take a look at it and he thinks the timing needle could be broke or worn down enough it doesn't stay in place. I don't know much about the inner workings, so I don't know if this could be the case as well.
Thank you for the tips. We may just take it into a shop when I can afford to and have them look at it.

 

[j-jock]

My XL-1 looks the same as 82F100SWB's with the chrome dressed starter and red top. It has the auto/manual oiler and the compression release. I have been using it as a trim saw for approximately 5 years, and it is an easy starting, good running saw.
I am running the hard nose 16" bar that came with the saw. It feels like it should have a larger bar, so I am going to switch to a 24" roller tip setup because I have a bar I can use.
I also have a Homelite XP-1000 pro, and my satisfaction with using the little saw, has convinced me that I should think about running the big brother.

 

[J-Hootin666]

May aswell continue the old thread again. I picked up an old blue xl-1 for $10 a couple weeks back. Simple carb/filters cleaning/tuning and runs good. But badly needs a new bar.
This one has a compression release and manual oiler though, which contradicts most of my research on it so far. Any tips?

No other markings on the saw, besides a hand engraved serial number I think...
L0897-29702-11106 Also picked up a super2, and a jonsered from the same fellow.

I have a homelite-terry ( the terry is the canadian part ) with model number UT50159 and serial no. T8107030 that is the XL 1AO and it is an amazing saw but does not have the manual oil pump although it has the spot drilled out to install one but I would have to die the grooves in the saw first.