HOMEMADE CHAINSAW TOOLS

[Wood Doctor]

Holy cow, I have one of those that I got in a box of random chainsaw tools, and I didn't even know what it was for.

Believe me, it works, I've repaired a dozen or so saws with it. Attaching that strong spring is a nightmare without it. I once used a cable and pulled it on, but that will not work on many saws because the case blocks the cable. One of my buddies made his by milling a 6" length of small angle iron. But, he likes mine better.

 

[half_full]

old credit cards work good to clean the bar groove. Snip off one end so the corners aren't rounded, and you lose a few of those private numbers...
Works well to scrape the bar clean too.

 

[Philbert]

I am a big believer in old reciprocating saw blades for cleaning the bar groove. The little tang works on the mounting holes too.

Philbert

 

[Rockjock]

I use theses from my old PC I flatten out the end and they work perfectly. So good in fact that often when someone picks up their saw they ask to buy one!

 

[Rockjock]

I use theses from my old PC I flatten out the end and they work perfectly. So good in fact that often when someone picks up their saw they ask to buy one!

Shall I start selling them? 4.95 plus shipping?

To me it works just as well as the proper one.

 

[Honda_man]

What else you want to see?

I just wanted to see the rest of the pics. lol

I like ideas.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Shall I start selling them? 4.95 plus shipping?

To me it works just as well as the proper one.

I think I will make one like the one above and add a hardwood handle to help hold it. I might make a half dozen or so.

 

[hotshot]

I'm pretty sure it was here on AS that I read of someone that drilled the side of the jaws of a crescent wrench to something very similar to this

Universal 12" spanner wrench.

That was me, but the gremlins got the old pictures. It took two drill bits to drill those holes as the metal is harder than you'd think.

Used for all saws, but marked it "Poulan" so Dad could remember what tool is used to pull his clutch off.

Initially had put roll pins in it, but then inserted cut off drill bits inside them after a tough clutch removal tried to bend them. An impact gun & the correct factory socket/spanner tool is still the best way, provided you're in the shop.

 

[pantelis]

Universal 12" spanner wrench.

That was me, but the gremlins got the old pictures. It took two drill bits to drill those holes as the metal is harder than you'd think.

Used for all saws, but marked it "Poulan" so Dad could remember what tool is used to pull his clutch off.

Initially had put roll pins in it, but then inserted cut off drill bits inside them after a tough clutch removal tried to bend them. An impact gun & the correct factory socket/spanner tool is still the best way, provided you're in the shop.

View attachment 388423


View attachment 388424


View attachment 388425

very smart, congratulations

 

[gulity1]

Here is my case splitter its a copy of the husky style I found a picture of it on Evilbay. I emailed to myself at work Printed it out and started playing with it on the photo copier getting to auctal size. I took a guess that the square relief area is an inch and kept blowing it up until I got to the proper size. Once I got there I cut I tout and traced it onto a .25 plate and torched to size took my grinder to it and viola I then welded it to a piece of 1.25 x .25 sq tube. the left and right are 2 separate pieces, it was easier to get the 1" space that way. Here are some pictures with a scale and square on them for reference, if anyone wants it.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I think I will make one like the one above and add a hardwood handle to help hold it. I might make a half dozen or so.

Well, here it is, my modified version of the bar scraper that RockJock posted. I added a 4.5" long hardwood handle after I found some scrap right angle steel stock that was exactly .05" thick. Then I shaped it with a dull hook, tapering back toward the handle:


Each has two hooks at right angles to each other. Both seem to work perfectly:


I used four flathead screws to mount the steel to the handle, countersinking the heads. Then I added a finish by painting the steel with Rustoleum and varnishing the handle. Two are now completed, and my logger buddy gets one of them for Christmas. I'm keeping the other one for myself. I'm now working on another design that only has one hook, but the right angle idea that I stumbled on adds considerable strength.

 

[Philbert]

Before I discovered the Sawzall blade 'trick', I modified a painter's tool, re-shaping some of the corner profiles to fit the grooves and oil holes, etc.:


Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

Before I discovered the Sawzall blade 'trick', I modified a painter's tool, re-shaping some of the corner profiles to fit the grooves and oil holes, etc.:
View attachment 389221

Philbert

Looks good, Philbert. I think the important item here is the thickness of the scraper's steel. Most typical paint scrapers, like mine that is now permanently retired from groove cleaning, are far less then .05" thick. Shucks, I may look for a sheet metal gauge that comes in at 0.068" and reserve that groove cleaner for all my big Stihl bars.

Oh, and I should drill a hole near the end of that handle for a short braided nylon leash. I'll do that tonight, prior to a Christmas delivery tomorrow. Thanks for the Pic.

 

[Philbert]

I actually had the opposite problem! When I tried the better quality, chrome-plated, Hyde type tools, several were too thick to fit in my 0.050" bars. So I had to bring a clean bar into Menard's and try to find one ('6-in-One Painter's Tool') that fit, and still had a nice handle, etc. For thicker grooves, I hold and pull the tool at a slight angle. Nothing beats compressed air for a final cleaning.

I like your simple, low-profile design.

Philbert