homemade(whatelse?) measuring sticks

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I use fiberglass fishing rods

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the one with a spring mounted to a bar nut works best

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I use fiberglass fishing rods

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the one with a spring mounted to a bar nut works best

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Yep. A rod back on a bar nut does not 'get in the way' anywhere near as much as one would think. Mine is a "union nut" with a 5/16" steel rod threaded 8x1mm. The spring load rod looks like a better idea. Of coruse I rarely use mine now as I have been cutting a lot of crooked Black Locust that takes a lot of "cut adjustment".

Harry K
 
I must admit to liking my firewood all one length. A 18" stick in my left hand and a 200T in my right......the stem is marked in a few zaps. :msp_wink:
 
I've tried measuring sticks, stuff that clamps to the saw, lumber crayons, tape measures, and who knows what else. I came to the conclusion that it's faster, easier, and simpler to just mark it on the saw. I cut everything 21~23" long, and I know where that hits on my saws. Yeah, I have to turn it sideways every time, but it's already in my hands, I don't have anything extra sticking out getting caught on stuff as I'm moving, I don't have to carry extra crap with me, and I only have to make on trip down the tree. A lot of guys I know consider it anal retentive to try to measure your firewood somehow, and they just eyeball it. I stay about 4 years a head on my cutting, and I like how well the wood stacks when it's consisistant. I hate having to restack it if it fall over :msp_angry:

Just my 2 bits,
Mark
 
since i sell firewood i cut 16",3 rows wide =4'. 4x4x8. i hold my stick in my throttle hand.make my first cut,put stick down on log eyeball the spot and saw,so on,etc. always hold stick in my throttle hand so when sidestepping to make next cut the saw is not running .my helper this year still can't get the hang of it.i told him i have been doing it for 35 years .he said i wasn't even born yet. anywho safe sawin.FS :chainsaw:






i know not
 
I gotta ask, How the F do you cut wood with stuff clamped to your bar????????? And don't answer if you don't wanna. :msp_unsure:
 
I just use the saw, or bar, as a visual reference. I don't walk down the log, or tree, making reference cuts... I don't see where making the extra walk is saving me time or energy. As I'm positioning myself for the next cut, I turn the saw, pick out a visual reference on the log/tree... like a ridge in the bark, or even a stray saw chip. The "reference" doesn't have to be right at an exact 16 inches... I can allow for the difference when I lay the bar to the wood.

I don't find turning the saw a big deal... I'm right handed and the bar just naturally swings to the left when I relax my arms after the cut... (shrug)... maybe part of it is the way I stand during the cut. I cut at 16-inches, so using the 16-inch bar is pretty straightforward. The 20-inch bar wears marks made with black automotive touch-up paint 4-inches from each end and on both sides (so no matter how I stand or hold the saw I have easy to see marks). The paint lasts a good long time... only need to blacken them back up once or twice a year.

I guess the procedure, or motion, required to use the saw for reference has become automatic... I don't even think about it, it just "is". It works for me... my wood is always within one inch either side of 16. (I'm gonna' pay for that one, ain't I?)
 
Originally I was using a mechanics pickup tool magnet type thing, but eventually I broke it. Instead of tossing it, I pulled it the rest of the way apart and inserted into the remaining tubing one of those landscape flags after I cut it to length and trimmed off a good portion of the flag. A little piece of duct tape holds the wire in the tubing. Works like a charm.

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I think these are interesting

STIHL: 2 in 1 Laser - YouTube

I had a similar idea and tried to shop it to oregon, but then stihl came out with theirs. I still think you could home brew one and just velcro it to your handle bar or make a more permanent mount so it could switch sides, etc.
 

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